How crappy are Bose speakers!

[Pb82 Ronin]

No highs, no lows, must be Bose. LOL! If anyone is interested in doing a full build, check this out.
My audio adventure

 

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[TheShark]

I put in 3 ohm speakers. As I was doing my build I hooked up the Infinity Primus 3ohm 93 sensitivity 6x9’s and 6.5’s first to factory wires. No discernible difference in volume output but much better clarity. I also did full sound deadening while I was at it.

Did Audio Control 3 ohm speakers in the dash corners. Same volume output as OEM but much cleaner. I did not amp these as I moved on with the build. My goal was to have better quality dash speakers but only have those as fill not the primary audio source as they are programmed by OEM. Using as fill did not require additional power.

Side note, rear door speakers receive almost no signal, no matter what you put in there you won’t hear them, the signal is programmed to the front (primarily dash and front doors) so ohms and sensitivity won’t make up for lack of signal in the rear doors.

I then ran all new wires putting tweeter and woofers all on separate channels coming out of my DSP amp which I used to send appropriate frequencies and adjusted crossover and slope to each separate speaker and tweeter and did the tunning based on mic measurements. I combined the input signals to a full combined signal that was then corrected going out to each speaker. This gave me the signal to the rear door speakers that was not present in OEM configuration.

That hit the sweet spot. Got the full surround sound I wanted, as much volume as I can stand with very clear output and tweeters set soft enough they don’t feel harsh when they are cranked up.

3 ohm worked well to provide stock level volume, but when powered by amp that does not really matter. I did want the 3ohm off my amp as it is 2,3,4 ohm stable and I get 10 extra watts per channel with the 3 ohm vs 4 ohm speaker.

Also did a 2 ohm DVC 10” sub wired to 1 ohm with 500w RMS on a 500w RMS amp

I have been replacing speakers just to run off factory Bose amp. I put 2 ohm 6×9s in the front doors and audio control 2.75" dash corners. So in your opinion, if I replace rear door speakers that will still be run off Bose system, could I get away with something a little less than premium quality since you cant hear them anyway? I did put SoundSkins damping in front doors and speaker rings and that helped tremendously. I have the panels for rear doors too that I will put in when I do the speakers. I'd like to only pull the door apart once. I was considering some Infinity speakers for the rear doors, but now I'm wondering if it's worth the money. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

 

[john151ama]

I have been replacing speakers just to run off factory Bose amp. I put 2 ohm 6×9s in the front doors and audio control 2.75" dash corners. So in your opinion, if I replace rear door speakers that will still be run off Bose system, could I get away with something a little less than premium quality since you cant hear them anyway? I did put SoundSkins damping in front doors and speaker rings and that helped tremendously. I have the panels for rear doors too that I will put in when I do the speakers. I'd like to only pull the door apart once. I was considering some Infinity speakers for the rear doors, but now I'm wondering if it's worth the money. I'd appreciate your thoughts.

I think you are thinking about it correctly. If you are not going to use a DSP and change the output signal to the rear doors I don’t see the value in putting a high dollar speaker in the rear door. The signal is so minimal you just don’t hear them. You can play with your fader and see how little signal they receive. I went with infinity 3 ohm speakers and prior to my DSP and amp hook up, they were no more audible than the stock Bose. So if your keeping signal as OEM I would spend the money on better front door speakers and the dash speakers and not mess with the rear door. I also don’t think that with stock signal sound deadening is probably worth the money in the rear doors unless you plan to change the signal down the road. Really if you have 5 watts going to a speaker and it is barely a whisper can sound deadening really produce an audible difference? I don’t think so. I would do really good sound deadening on the front doors and the best speaker you can there. Just my opinion based on what I measured and modified.

 

[jeffmit]

Here's an update based on my recent experience upgrading the bose speakers 2025 1500 AT4X, I tried the following replacement speakers in the dash corners:

Speaker, results
1. JL Audio CF-275mt with the crossovers installed, Music played fine. Navigation and Phone would not work through Carplay (music would mute to allow for the phone or navigation, but no audible sound from the speakers). - the high end signal was a bit harsh, I did not like the sound of the speakers with music playing. Returned to Crutchfield.
2. Morel CCWR254 with the included capacitor installed, Music played fine. Navigation and Phone would not work through Carplay (music would mute to allow for the phone or navigation, but no audible sound from the speakers). - I liked the sound of the speakers with music playing, but since the phone and navigation did not work, I returned to Crutchfield.
3. Memphis Audio MS25 with the crossover installed, same behavior as above. Music sounded great, but Navigation and Phone would not work through carplay.
a. I see a pattern, so I removed the crossover from the speaker and reinstalled. Results: Navigation and Phone and music are all working. These speakers are an improvement over the bose, and the volume is great. The speakers are installed and working well without the crossover.

Q: I wonder if the newer Bose system has an active crossover? Everything is working well with the Memphis Audio MS25 without the crossover attached.

I called Crutchfield, and they don't have a wiring diagram of the truck to confirm, but they agree with my assumption.

 

[john151ama]

Here's an update based on my recent experience upgrading the bose speakers 2025 1500 AT4X, I tried the following replacement speakers in the dash corners:

Speaker, results
1. JL Audio CF-275mt with the crossovers installed, Music played fine. Navigation and Phone would not work through Carplay (music would mute to allow for the phone or navigation, but no audible sound from the speakers). - the high end signal was a bit harsh, I did not like the sound of the speakers with music playing. Returned to Crutchfield.
2. Morel CCWR254 with the included capacitor installed, Music played fine. Navigation and Phone would not work through Carplay (music would mute to allow for the phone or navigation, but no audible sound from the speakers). - I liked the sound of the speakers with music playing, but since the phone and navigation did not work, I returned to Crutchfield.
3. Memphis Audio MS25 with the crossover installed, same behavior as above. Music sounded great, but Navigation and Phone would not work through carplay.
a. I see a pattern, so I removed the crossover from the speaker and reinstalled. Results: Navigation and Phone and music are all working. These speakers are an improvement over the bose, and the volume is great. The speakers are installed and working well without the crossover.

Q: I wonder if the newer Bose system has an active crossover? Everything is working well with the Memphis Audio MS25 without the crossover attached.

I called Crutchfield, and they don't have a wiring diagram of the truck to confirm, but they agree with my assumption.

I totally agree with your finding and saw the same on my AT4X HD. I replaced my dash corners with AudioControl PNW-275. I left these off the stock amp as I did not want to raise the volume from the dash and wanted to amp the other speakers for fuller surround sound. I just wanted a better quality dash speaker to complement the rest of my package. I did not install the included crossover. As these speakers mute and play turn signal and other tones I did not want to cause resistance issues. Also they are already getting a set frequency from the Bose amp so they should already have that protection. No issues at all with them and they sound better than Bose. I never considered adding the crossover as it seemed redundant.

 

[TheShark]

I think you are thinking about it correctly. If you are not going to use a DSP and change the output signal to the rear doors I don’t see the value in putting a high dollar speaker in the rear door. The signal is so minimal you just don’t hear them. You can play with your fader and see how little signal they receive. I went with infinity 3 ohm speakers and prior to my DSP and amp hook up, they were no more audible than the stock Bose. So if your keeping signal as OEM I would spend the money on better front door speakers and the dash speakers and not mess with the rear door. I also don’t think that with stock signal sound deadening is probably worth the money in the rear doors unless you plan to change the signal down the road. Really if you have 5 watts going to a speaker and it is barely a whisper can sound deadening really produce an audible difference? I don’t think so. I would do really good sound deadening on the front doors and the best speaker you can there. Just my opinion based on what I measured and modified.

Appreciate it. I already bought the sound deadening kit for all 4 doors, so I'll do the back. I already did the fronts. The deadening may not improve the sound in the back too much, but absolutely will add in quieting road and other outside noise. Just doing the front door and dash speakers and adding the Kicker OEM sub tremendously improved the sound. My last vehicle (2006 GMC Envoy) I had 2 12" Morell subs, so I do miss the boom, but at least this just sounds clean. Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[TheShark]

I totally agree with your finding and saw the same on my AT4X HD. I replaced my dash corners with AudioControl PNW-275. I left these off the stock amp as I did not want to raise the volume from the dash and wanted to amp the other speakers for fuller surround sound. I just wanted a better quality dash speaker to complement the rest of my package. I did not install the included crossover. As these speakers mute and play turn signal and other tones I did not want to cause resistance issues. Also they are already getting a set frequency from the Bose amp so they should already have that protection. No issues at all with them and they sound better than Bose. I never considered adding the crossover as it seemed redundant.

I installed those same dash speakers. I did use the included crossovers basically just because. I also felt that the Bose should handle it, but I figured the added protection couldn't hurt. I don't know what the differences are, but it seems the general consensus is that the Bose system in the pre-refresh trucks (like my '21) is just somehow better than those in the '22.5 and up trucks. I luckily don't have any issues with phone or turn signal audio having the audio control crossovers installed.

 

[john151ama]

I installed those same dash speakers. I did use the included crossovers basically just because. I also felt that the Bose should handle it, but I figured the added protection couldn't hurt. I don't know what the differences are, but it seems the general consensus is that the Bose system in the pre-refresh trucks (like my '21) is just somehow better than those in the '22.5 and up trucks. I luckily don't have any issues with phone or turn signal audio having the audio control crossovers installed.

That is good to know in case others on here are having issues down the road. Apparently lots of electric changes in the refresh, we’re all still trying to figure them out. My first time using AudioControl. Seem pretty good and richer than the Bose. Only 25 watt RMS so great on the stock system in the dash. If someone decided to amp the dash as well looks like it would be very hard to find a 2.5” that could handle much over 25 watts for the application.

 

[TheShark]

That is good to know in case others on here are having issues down the road. Apparently lots of electric changes in the refresh, we’re all still trying to figure them out. My first time using AudioControl. Seem pretty good and richer than the Bose. Only 25 watt RMS so great on the stock system in the dash. If someone decided to amp the dash as well looks like it would be very hard to find a 2.5” that could handle much over 25 watts for the application.

Yeah, best bet in that case would be components for the front for sure.

 

[sanny651]

My only complaint with the Bose system was the lack of bass. The kicker sub fixed that and I have zero complaints now.

Do you have a link or pics?

 

[Johnv76]

Do you have a link or pics?

Site Maintenance

 

[sanny651]

Had no idea they had this available. Thank you!!

 

[Johnv76]

Had no idea they had this available. Thank you!!

Np happy to help. Yeah I think it's a bit over priced for what it is. There are some really good in depth threads on here about audio upgrades, full audio builds, etc.

 

[TheShark]

I just wanted to chime in here about that subwoofer. I've installed it, which was very easy btw. Just a couple things:
1) The added bass is good. It does round out the soundstage and does sound clean, but to me it's a bit underwhelming. I have the 3 switches set to max btw. However, in my last vehicle ('06 GMC Envoy) I had replaced the whole audio system and added a 12 with 600w RMS, so I'm a little biased.
2) When installing, I highly recommend grabbing the sound input signal from the factory bose "subwoofer" (lol) in the bottom of the center console. This will provide your new Kicker sub amp with only low frequency inputs. If you follow the instructions they say to tap into the front passenger door speaker wires which provide full frequency range. There is no need to send sound frequencies meant for tweeters and midrange speakers to the subwoofer amp. Yes, it can decipher and block out those signals, but it has to do a whole bunch more sound processing. It will be much happier if it doesn't even need to do this and only receives the signals it's meant to amplify. There's pics in some threads (somewhere) about this, but these wires are accessed on the passenger side of the center console, back bottom near seat bracket. Hopefully this may be helpful!

 

[sanny651]

Thank you both @TheShark and @Johnv76 ! Once I get my truck back from getting a new engine (whenever that may be), I may look at doing this mod. I'm not looking to go back to my Snoop Do-double_G days. LOL. But a bit more bass would be fantastic. I'll see what my dealer can do on price of this kit.