Koolbreezeya
Active member
Welcome
How crappy are Bose speakers!
- Thread starter phobby
- Start date
I don’t mind the Bose speakers but they aren’t the greatest. In my old ram I had the alpine system that thumped more and was a whole lot better. It’s too bad there isnt a way to get higher end Bose speakers to upgrade. Unless there is but I couldn’t find anything online.
I haven’t minded the Bose system in 6 trucks I’ve owned with it. It’s definitely been going down hill for years.
My recent knee surgery (6 weeks on crutches), I decided to research and do some mods to my truck I would enjoy and could do.
A higher end option for the factory Bose would be really nice. Like upgraded speakers and amp with full EQ controls.
ATXAT4
Member
Curious how the 4 ohm speakers sound. I believe the Bose is a 2 ohm system. Also, did you look at any 2 or 3 ohm speakers?
Welcome.
Using 4 ohm in a 2 ohm system would effectively halve the audio output although a higher speaker sensitivity may partly make up for it.
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john151ama
Well-known member
I put in 3 ohm speakers. As I was doing my build I hooked up the Infinity Primus 3ohm 93 sensitivity 6x9’s and 6.5’s first to factory wires. No discernible difference in volume output but much better clarity. I also did full sound deadening while I was at it.
Did Audio Control 3 ohm speakers in the dash corners. Same volume output as OEM but much cleaner. I did not amp these as I moved on with the build. My goal was to have better quality dash speakers but only have those as fill not the primary audio source as they are programmed by OEM. Using as fill did not require additional power.
Side note, rear door speakers receive almost no signal, no matter what you put in there you won’t hear them, the signal is programmed to the front (primarily dash and front doors) so ohms and sensitivity won’t make up for lack of signal in the rear doors.
I then ran all new wires putting tweeter and woofers all on separate channels coming out of my DSP amp which I used to send appropriate frequencies and adjusted crossover and slope to each separate speaker and tweeter and did the tunning based on mic measurements. I combined the input signals to a full combined signal that was then corrected going out to each speaker. This gave me the signal to the rear door speakers that was not present in OEM configuration.
That hit the sweet spot. Got the full surround sound I wanted, as much volume as I can stand with very clear output and tweeters set soft enough they don’t feel harsh when they are cranked up.
3 ohm worked well to provide stock level volume, but when powered by amp that does not really matter. I did want the 3ohm off my amp as it is 2,3,4 ohm stable and I get 10 extra watts per channel with the 3 ohm vs 4 ohm speaker.
Also did a 2 ohm DVC 10” sub wired to 1 ohm with 500w RMS on a 500w RMS amp
ATXAT4
Member
Very cool. Want to eventually update the system in my AT4. I see your build from your profile media. Looks amazing. Great details too!
john151ama
Well-known member
Happy to share anything I learned if you need anything!
Koolbreezeya
Active member
Koolbreezeya
Active member
I'm getting a headache
Yep, just loud enough to cover up the squeaks, squeals and rattles!I wish I was more of an audiophile, but I'm half deaf and the system sounds fine.
Yep, just loud enough to cover up the squeaks, squeals and rattles!
@phobby did you also install the included crossover on the Memphis Audio MS25 / Bose replacement dash corner speakers, or will the Bose system manage the frequency response for the dash speakers without installing the memphis crossover? I have tried 3 different dash corner speakers, and I like these Memphis best.
I also tried the Morel CCWR254 and JL Audio CF-275mt and I agree that the Memphis MS25 sounds better.
I also tried the Morel CCWR254 and JL Audio CF-275mt and I agree that the Memphis MS25 sounds better.
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