My audio build...

Pb82 Ronin

Active member
Dec 6, 2021
Reaction score
Out back!
Loving the truck...not loving the complete absence of bass. I will need to fix this ASAP. Curious if anyone else has jumped in already? I have a JL 600W amp and some 10TW1s itching to get in there. Personally...I think two 10's should be a really happy compromise. How about it fellas (and ladies??), get some tunes yet? If so, post up some pics. Mainly looking for amp wiring routing and finished install pics.
If anyone is wondering, I chose a custom subthump box (custom because I asked them to make it a certain way) cut for two JL 10TW1s @ 2 ohm. This was a tough choice since I'm a HUGE fan of the 13TW5s and subthump makes a box for those that will fit right in. I'm leaning away from those right now because I think 2 of them would be too much for a pick-up. Those things GET DOWN! I have two in my vette on 1200W RMS, and they'll knock your fillings out. I also chewed over just getting one TW5 as my amp would power it nicely it's absolutely beautiful sounding when run solo. The decision was because 2 TW1s will contribute more musically IMO, and fill the cab with more sound versus a focal point sub. Who knows, I may change my mind later.

I'll also run my JL XD 600/1 mono to power it. So each of the TW1s will be getting 200W on a 4 ohm load. JL amps don't like 1 ohm loads, ask me how I know, :giggle:! I'll run the SoundsGoodStereo BOSE RCA interface for signal and remote turn-on, 4 gauge OFC cables for power/ground. I guess the only thing for me to do is find a good ground location. I'm also going to deaden the doors and rear wall with some CAE VB2, SDS CLD tiles, and Kollossus. That is VERY good stuff that I use in my ZO6 to compete with. I think this will make the most difference in the doors as currently, that's the only place I hear wind noise. Stay tuned, this will get good. (y)
Last edited:
Post up some photos when you install. Where are you mounting the amp? I put a 12” sub in and made a box/storage bin for under the rear seats.
Step three...get some subs up in there! (And a partner to help you work).

These are JL Audio 10TW1s. On the 600/1 they'll each get 200W RMS at 4 ohm. Which is perfect as 200W RMS is their "optimum" RMS power. Should have more output that they did in my other rig since they were only getting 150W RMS and they were wired to 1 ohm. I do love me some JL subs.
Last edited:
Got cracking today...
Making an amp rack for the empty space in my sub box...

Threw on some black paint...
Made the first section of the main 4 gauge power cable to the fuse holder.
Finish mounted the fuse holder to the battery hold down so I wouldn't have to worry about removing (or moving) this every time I needed to pop the cover off.100_0835.JPG A quick session with the dremel opened up the channel for the cable. Easy stuff.
Sorry for the blurry pics...hard to take close-ups in low light...
Lid closes perfectly.
Made a quick wiring bundle for the Wavetech. 18 gauge standard wire.
This is a work in progress and here is where I called it a night. I think this will be how I will finish install the subs. Just need a short RCA from the Wavetech to the amp which I just ordered. I would make my own...but RCA's are so cheap and plentiful...I'll just buy one for now and maybe make a custom fit one later. I'm really excited to get this thing jamming in the truck. The factory stuff is just so depressing. The Wavetech will fix the missing <40Hz information that is so desperately needed as seen below.

If you have questions about anything I'm doing, feel free to ask away.
Here are the final driver selections I'm going with. The highlighted ellipses are where we're going to have (or Bose will make them) them play. These are about the flattest playing drivers available that will fit in the OEM locations (and sub box). Each driver was carefully chosen to be able to play the factory Bose signal without being damaged, and play the flattest possible curve.
highs FR.png

Front door woofers:
door woofs.png
Sub woofers:
sub FR.png

After some deadening, this might not sound that great with the Bose signal coming out of them...but after NAVTV is available, and we can DSP/EQ this system, it should sound quite beautiful. We will definitely compare the OEM curve before, and the new curve with the better drivers after. Fingers crossed.
Last edited:
New stuff came today...
If you have room...why not run bigger, better subs? My thoughts too. These are so much more better performers on paper. We shall see.
Super tiny...yet hopefully impressive. My bro 3D printed some adapters to mount these bad boys in the OEM spot. Treat good people well folks. If you can't recognize good people...then you aren't one.100_0857.JPGMy new door woofers. These are the same ones that are in my ZO6. These things are absolutely amazing drivers! I have no doubt they'll get after it in my AT4.
Yeah buddy...tomorrow is about to get serious!
One of the almost finished install pics. All that needed is the power and ground wire to the amp (and the RCA input which is already installed pirating the Bose low signal). The final pics are tomorrow. Super stoked to be finally jamming.
Damn Bose sucks. The Wavetech helps, but there's only so much it can do. It's like giving a pair of crutches to a one-legged blind man. While they do help him move around, he'll never be an Olympic sprinter. I got everything installed (well subs anyway) and it sounds much better than it did...but it still needs more. The Wavetech does exactly what is says it does. It make frequency appear where none was before. But it feels like a band-aid. It'll do for now, but it will NEVER make me happy. Come on NAVTV...I need you in my life.

New Posts

Most reactions