My audio build...

picked my 23 at4 up from the shop today. Fedex driver ran into the back of my tailgate while i was at a clients office for 5 minutes.

guy lied about it, until he was shown the camera footage the next day when he showed up to deliver another package.


so when it was in for the damage repair, i had them upgrade my audio and hardwire my valentine 1 radar. i ordered the following from crutchfield

kicker ksc 6x9 for front doors
audiofrog gs25 2 1/2" dash
kicker ksc 6 3/4" rear doors
kicker 46hs10 powered sub/box

JL 6 channel xd 600 amp

wavtech link6 processor
soundskins sound deadinging package for the 4 doors.


vast improvement on the audio. sub might be a tad weak, but i didnt want to get a custom box made and another larger amp, as half the time im listening to xm sports talk radio.
 

Pretty happy with my setup...just need to deaden the floor and the headliner. Wind noise is still slightly audible at speed. Also, my mid-bass power is starting to make the factory door panel connection points to loosen up and make noise. I need another round of deadening...especially in the driver door. My mid-bass really hammers hard with those 8" drivers.
 

Chaos in the kitchen tonight...
View attachment 1114
Going to break out the soldering iron tomorrow after I finish flagging wires. I only get one shot to make it right.
View attachment 1115
I'm going to tie everything into ONE plug and play harness. Found out I don't need to use the remote lead with the Helix, so I can lose one wire. Any time wires can be removed is a good thing. Anyone know how to de-pin the factory harness'? Those things are kicking my ass.
View attachment 1116
The RCA's are looking good though. I like the way they laid out.

Going to be a busy day tomorrow.
Takes numerous different tools, not sure which one.
 

I damplified my doors and replaced all 6 speakers with Focal 6.5s, 690s, and GS25s in the front this weekend. I was surprised to find the amount of moisture I found in the front doors after removing the panels
 

Sorry I am late to this but kudos to making the perfect system. In using your DSP connected to all 6 speakers…. How did you get the blinker/door chimes to not be loud even with amplying those dash speakers? Also, did you use your DSP to “open” a full signal to the front door speakers? I noticed that they don’t seem to play the higher frequencies.
Thanks for everything posted in this thead!
Hey man, sorry I missed this question. I didn't "amplify" the Bose directly. The signal comes out of the Bose into the DSP, then the amps, then back into the factory speaker wires. This means that my DSP volume knob controls the chime/signal volume. So, I can actually mute them or hear them. But they are NEVER loud. It's kind of nice actually.
 

TBH, I don't even run the rear speakers unless I have passengers back there. I recommend swapping the twiddlers for GB25's if you can afford them. The Daytons are a truly fantastic driver...especially for the budget conscious. There are better out there though. As you probably can see from my charts, swapping drivers doesn't do anything but play slightly cleaner and louder...but you will not notice an increase in bass. It's not until you add a good subwoofer and amp will that be realized. I went with the Focals because I had them laying around. In hindsight, I use them so infrequently that I probably should've just run some 6.5" Dayton's because they're also quite good and cost about 15x less than the Focals.

I damplified my doors and replaced all 6 speakers with Focal 6.5s, 690s, and GS25s in the front this weekend. I was surprised to find the amount of moisture I found in the front doors after removing the panels
 

I have a 24’ AT4X 12 Speaker. Like most, not impressed - and listen to a lot of music.

How was the focal upgrade performance compared to stock? 100% worth the effort?
 

I have a 24’ AT4X 12 Speaker. Like most, not impressed - and listen to a lot of music.

How was the focal upgrade performance compared to stock? 100% worth the effort?
I’m not the guy you’re replying to/asking, obviously, but I’ve been doing a good amount of research on upgrading my audio as well. I’ve seen quite a few guys with more knowledge than me saying that just putting in some higher quality speakers (Focal, Audiofrog, etc) without touching anything else made a significant difference for sure. I’m not gonna go all out, but I’ve already installed the Kicker sub offered through GMC, and I’m gonna put some Focal speakers in the doors with some Soundskinz deadening soon.
 

I’m not the guy you’re replying to/asking, obviously, but I’ve been doing a good amount of research on upgrading my audio as well. I’ve seen quite a few guys with more knowledge than me saying that just putting in some higher quality speakers (Focal, Audiofrog, etc) without touching anything else made a significant difference for sure. I’m not gonna go all out, but I’ve already installed the Kicker sub offered through GMC, and I’m gonna put some Focal speakers in the doors with some Soundskinz deadening soon.
 

Have a 2007 BMW 335 that I only upgraded speakers in some years back, bought from a shop that sells them as a package specifically for BMW (and a few other makes). It is still the best sounding vehicle we own - and have an X5 with a $4K B&O Upgrade that’s good, but not even close to $4K good….and a Tesla M 3 that could sound good if every panel in the car didn’t rattle.

The BOSE literally sounds like it has a wet blanket on the speakers - and source makes a big difference…some slightly better than others.

Really don’t want to spend $6K after just buying the damn thing. Already added bed cover and amp steps….so just speaker replacement may be best option for now knowing can add a DSP/AMP later. Also not sure if speaker mix/match makes sense - seems acoustically, using same manufacturer would give best symmetry??
 

I have a 24’ AT4X 12 Speaker. Like most, not impressed - and listen to a lot of music.

How was the focal upgrade performance compared to stock? 100% worth the effort?
It was worth it. There was more depth believe it or not. I will be adding a DSP AMP (to keep it simple) and have just finished the subwoofer box for a JL Audio 10TW1-4 I got for Christmas. This will all be under $2000 or cheaper if you go the eBay route. I am waiting for these guys to start making these harnesses again if they start up soon to pull it all together.
 

It was worth it. There was more depth believe it or not. I will be adding a DSP AMP (to keep it simple) and have just finished the subwoofer box for a JL Audio 10TW1-4 I got for Christmas. This will all be under $2000 or cheaper if you go the eBay route. I am waiting for these guys to start making these harnesses again if they start up soon to pull it all together.
Ping [email protected] at audio integration - has a build lead time of 3 weeks but seems to be on it in all my communications and will custom what you need. Good guys sound can do the same. Going to an audio shop tomorrow for some consulting…want to do it right, but not break tye bank. Good guys has the adapters as well - has great ratings.
 

Have a 2007 BMW 335 that I only upgraded speakers in some years back, bought from a shop that sells them as a package specifically for BMW (and a few other makes). It is still the best sounding vehicle we own - and have an X5 with a $4K B&O Upgrade that’s good, but not even close to $4K good….and a Tesla M 3 that could sound good if every panel in the car didn’t rattle.

The BOSE literally sounds like it has a wet blanket on the speakers - and source makes a big difference…some slightly better than others.

Really don’t want to spend $6K after just buying the damn thing. Already added bed cover and amp steps….so just speaker replacement may be best option for now knowing can add a DSP/AMP later. Also not sure if speaker mix/match makes sense - seems acoustically, using same manufacturer would give best symmetry??
Check out post #25. I show where just swapping to 4 ohm speakers makes a large difference in sound output and quality. Now I can say with evidence to support that it works in the GMC trucks, but I've never tested this theory in a BMW, so YMMV.
 

Check out post #25. I show where just swapping to 4 ohm speakers makes a large difference in sound output and quality. Now I can say with evidence to support that it works in the GMC trucks, but I've never tested this theory in a BMW, so YMMV.
Thanks Bub. This work is on a 24’ AT4X. 12 speakers of junk - never had a new system sound so poor. I went online to parts - and OEM cost for replacement speaker parts is like $850…..demonstrating they really didn’t invest anything in quality.

I read through all your posts - wish I had you skill and patience 😎👍🏻

That said - I’m using all your experience and others feedback to build out a system I can be happy with - so 100% appreciate the level of detail you provide!
 

Thanks Bub. This work is on a 24’ AT4X. 12 speakers of junk - never had a new system sound so poor. I went online to parts - and OEM cost for replacement speaker parts is like $850…..demonstrating they really didn’t invest anything in quality.

I read through all your posts - wish I had you skill and patience 😎👍🏻

That said - I’m using all your experience and others feedback to build out a system I can be happy with - so 100% appreciate the level of detail you provide!
Have had two quotes, same shop, $10K and $12K. 🤒.
 

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