My audio build...

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Love your build. How hard is it to disconnect the Bose subwoofer?

Just built this box and looking forward to putting it in after I get it all wrapped up. Don't mind the bad Bondo job. First time I've messed with it.

That turned out very nice for your first go at it! One of my first fiberglass projects many moons ago was a box to hold 2 RF Punch Power HX'2 in the spare wheel compartment in my Acura RSX. Did like 14 layers of FG and never cracked or any leaks...only 14lbs if I recall. Shortly after I finished the project...I sold it LOL. Sometimes the journey of the project is greater than the outcome.
 

Love your build. How hard is it to disconnect the Bose subwoofer?

Just built this box and looking forward to putting it in after I get it all wrapped up. Don't mind the bad Bondo job. First time I've messed with it.
Never disconnected it. It's still in the center console. It just adds some structural rigidity which helps keep it quiet. I just used the OEM subwoofer signal as a low frequency input into the DSP.
 

I'm just starting to look in to 'fixing' the crap sounding 12-speaker Bose in my AT4X. Looks like you picked up the futzed with outputs from the Bose amp, is that right? I'm wondering if there's a DSP that'll connect in front of the Bose amp so I can pitch it entirely so I don't have to deal with some of the things you did, I don't have the equipment or experience for it. It's just muffled and no actual base
 

You don't want anything in front of the Bose amp. You will forever be unhappy. The only way I was able to cancel out the Bose was to put a DSP on the output side of the Bose so it couldn't manipulate the signal anymore. If you go the other way, Bose will try to manipulate the signal coming out of your DSP which defeats the entire purpose.
 

I was thinking I'd get rid of the Bose amp, use an aftermarket amp fed by the DSP. I figured Bose's DSP was built in to their amp which is why I'm thinking of completely replacing it
 

iDatalink Maestro makes a DSP that seems to work for just about every make except GM that can take the line out from the head unit and get the volume, eq, door chime and the rest of the information off the vehicle bus and provide RCA outputs to go in to aftermarket amps. I haven't seen a DSP over 10 channels, although I'm guessing the Bose 12speaker setup just clips off signal from the dash speakers for the tweeters in the A pillar? That's the part I'm having trouble with, just understanding if other DSPs can do that or maybe it's just no one has figured out the GM messaging?
 

From the Soundsgood website when someone asked about a T-harness to get in front of the Bose amp: "You cannot use a signal summing device on these trucks, you must keep each channel discrete or use a powerful DSP like the Mosconi Aerospace or the Arc Audio Blackbird. The factory stereo has All-Pass filters which must be corrected before you can sum channels. Hopefully in the next 30-60 days, we will have a shippable solution to resolve these. Any questions, please reach out to us" - That's all a bit out of my realm. And paygrade
 

I should say like the others - Your build log on here is incredible. It's been a big help in understanding how this thing is put together. This is driving me to not settle for my Blose system. Thank you!
 

Anytime y'all...and if you truly want to get rid of the Bose amp in these, you need one of these:
I have been researching and buying equipment the last month for my system upgrade and came across your build thread. Thanks for the great documentation and advise. I have a SLT w/Bose and will be upgrading to:
  1. Hertz MPS300 S4 12
  2. AudioFrog GS62 for Rear Doors
  3. Debating front doors - thinking component with woofer in the door/tweeter in the dash
  4. Rockford Fosgate Punch P600x4 for doors/dash
  5. Rockford Fosgate Punch P500X2 for sub
  6. LC7i LOC
  7. Loop Back Harness from LLJ Customs for Bose w/ANC
If I used the Axxess DSP, would it be mounted near the Bose amp behind the seat and then send the signal directly to the LOC for summing to the 4 channel amp?

Otherwise my plan was to sum the dash and the door speakers signal from the bose amp, send to the AMP and use the loopback harness to get the signal to the speakers.
 

The nice thing about the Axxess is it does all the summing for you. Yes it would mount near the factory amp location, unless you need it elsewhere. Just like any other electronic device, you can mount it anywhere as long as you extend the wires.

As you can see from my build, I feel a dedicated 3 way is the way to go in these trucks. I love some Audiofrog, and my combo of the GB10 and GB25 sounds pretty damn spectacular. As for woofers, 6.5's were the cats ass in the 90s, but these days it's all about the 8" drivers. Those Dayton's I run are a killer driver (and very affordable), but if money is no object, check out the new SI 8's. Those things are going to be killer.

Don't waste your money on rear drivers. I have Focal K2s in my rear doors, and ironically, I never have them on. The only time I ever have is when we were tuning, and then on a long road-trip when I had rear passengers. Other than that, the front stage and subs are the only thing I ever have going.

Also, ditch the LC7 and get an actual DSP like a Helix or similar. I ran a Wavetech for about a week and realized it wasn't needed once my DSP was sorted out. You only running the one 12"? You definitely need more amp if you're running 2 of them. Also, consider an 8 channel over the 4. You need more channels in these truck...not less.
 

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For the Bose trucks, the only interface available right now that we know about is the Axxess.. We have not used it and it's not something we will be using for reasons I will not post about. You have only 4 options to upgrade the system in these trucks:

1- Do not sum signals. Run a pass-through system, 7-channels in and 7-channels out (6-Channel amp + a Mono)
2- Axxess piece
3 - Use a DSP that has All-Pass capabilities on the front/input side, not just the outputs (Mosconi Aerospace, Mosconi One Amplifiers, Mosconi Pico, etc). Then you need a talented person to understand and fix these filters BEFORE summing happens.
4 - Only add bass with a harness, simple since you are not summing anything.
 

For the Bose trucks, the only interface available right now that we know about is the Axxess.. We have not used it and it's not something we will be using for reasons I will not post about. You have only 4 options to upgrade the system in these trucks:

1- Do not sum signals. Run a pass-through system, 7-channels in and 7-channels out (6-Channel amp + a Mono)
2- Axxess piece
3 - Use a DSP that has All-Pass capabilities on the front/input side, not just the outputs (Mosconi Aerospace, Mosconi One Amplifiers, Mosconi Pico, etc). Then you need a talented person to understand and fix these filters BEFORE summing happens.
4 - Only add bass with a harness, simple since you are not summing anything.
I don't use the axxess either. I just mention it as something available. My friend does in his Sierra 2500 though...and it does work quite nicely. I'm happy to answer any questions you all may have about it.

I also don't sum anything. I agree with you all there. There is full signal in the Bose, you just have to be able to isolate and correct (tune it) via a DSP. I use Helix, and it works just fine. I also appreciate the harness SGS sells; it just turns out that it's not really needed if you plan on running a full DSP build.
 

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