My audio build...

@ynottony I'm not against it. Definitely not anywhere near SA though, so you're out of luck there. A few questions...
1) Are you going to do the install yourself?
2) Are you wanting to use a DSP (and can you tune if you want one)?
3) Are you after sound quality, or volume/output?
Do you have Venmo, PayPal or Zelle?

1) I will do the install myself and I'm comfortable with soldering and breaking out the dremel if need be.
2) I would like to use a DSP, not a fan of how the Bose does its processing. Would be willing to pay for a remote tune if I can't find anyone locally that can do it.
3) Sound quality. Would be nice to piss the neighbors off from time to time with BASS though.
 

Do you have Venmo, PayPal or Zelle?

1) I will do the install myself and I'm comfortable with soldering and breaking out the dremel if need be.
2) I would like to use a DSP, not a fan of how the Bose does its processing. Would be willing to pay for a remote tune if I can't find anyone locally that can do it.
3) Sound quality. Would be nice to piss the neighbors off from time to time with BASS though.
I typically use paypal...but man I can't charge anyone for just putting together a parts list.

Fair warning ahead of time though, adding a DSP complicates things and adds a decent expense. You'll be at half your budget with just a good amp and a DSP. Amps with integrated DSPs are $15-1800 on their own. You'll save by doing your own install and running cheaper speakers, but there are places where you can't cut costs.
 

I typically use paypal...but man I can't charge anyone for just putting together a parts list.

Fair warning ahead of time though, adding a DSP complicates things and adds a decent expense. You'll be at half your budget with just a good amp and a DSP. Amps with integrated DSPs are $15-1800 on their own. You'll save by doing your own install and running cheaper speakers, but there are places where you can't cut costs.
PM me your PayPal, at least let me buy you a 6-pack.

I think it would be smarter to go better on the DSP and AMP(s) in the beginning. I can also keep an eye out for used higher quality speakers and upgrade if needed down the line.
 

PM me your PayPal, at least let me buy you a 6-pack.

I think it would be smarter to go better on the DSP and AMP(s) in the beginning. I can also keep an eye out for used higher quality speakers and upgrade if needed down the line.
The speaker's "quality" becomes less important when using a DSP because you can tune their output with the DSP. But the DSP can only do so much. For instance, a DSP won't make a 5.25" speaker play clean at 30 Hz. The Put another way, a DSP can't make a speaker perform beyond its design parameters. Hopefully that makes sense. I'll PM you my number. I can pass a lot more info on over the phone then I ever could going back and forth on here.
 

I typically use paypal...but man I can't charge anyone for just putting together a parts list.

Fair warning ahead of time though, adding a DSP complicates things and adds a decent expense. You'll be at half your budget with just a good amp and a DSP. Amps with integrated DSPs are $15-1800 on their own. You'll save by doing your own install and running cheaper speakers, but there are places where you can't cut costs.
You can get good DSP Amps for under $1000. Check out Audison
 

You can get good DSP Amps for under $1000. Check out Audison
Never seen one for "under" 1K, but around/about 1K is fair. A good one from Audison is about $1100. Nothing against Audison at all, they make high quality stuff, and their OEM integration is tough to beat. But their DSP (in the amp version, and their Bit 10 based processors) leave a lot to be desired in so far as functions and adjustability.
 

Hey man! I cannot thank you enough for posting your build. It has been a huge inspiration and resource for my audio build. I’ve never tackled an install before so it’s certainly not the prettiest but it’s coming along! I thought just adding a 12” TW3 would make me happy… jokes on me.

I now have two tw5 enclosures in the back powered by a Facebook marketplace JL HD1200. I plan on putting in a dual box at some point..
8” dayton RS in the door w/SGS adapters
Hertz MP tweeters. It’s unbelievable how much louder these are on the Bose amp. I grabbed a kicker key200 to run active in Bi-amp mode since tuning a DSP on my own is out of league(for now at least). Not installed yet. Waiting on my amp rack to tie everything together so Bose amp will do for now.

Would you recommend the wavtech to help eq the bass? Or recommend any other product to help tune the subs?
 

Hey man! I cannot thank you enough for posting your build. It has been a huge inspiration and resource for my audio build. I’ve never tackled an install before so it’s certainly not the prettiest but it’s coming along! I thought just adding a 12” TW3 would make me happy… jokes on me.

I now have two tw5 enclosures in the back powered by a Facebook marketplace JL HD1200. I plan on putting in a dual box at some point..
8” dayton RS in the door w/SGS adapters
Hertz MP tweeters. It’s unbelievable how much louder these are on the Bose amp. I grabbed a kicker key200 to run active in Bi-amp mode since tuning a DSP on my own is out of league(for now at least). Not installed yet. Waiting on my amp rack to tie everything together so Bose amp will do for now.

Would you recommend the wavtech to help eq the bass? Or recommend any other product to help tune the subs?

Welcome.
 

Hey man! I cannot thank you enough for posting your build. It has been a huge inspiration and resource for my audio build. I’ve never tackled an install before so it’s certainly not the prettiest but it’s coming along! I thought just adding a 12” TW3 would make me happy… jokes on me.

I now have two tw5 enclosures in the back powered by a Facebook marketplace JL HD1200. I plan on putting in a dual box at some point..
8” dayton RS in the door w/SGS adapters
Hertz MP tweeters. It’s unbelievable how much louder these are on the Bose amp. I grabbed a kicker key200 to run active in Bi-amp mode since tuning a DSP on my own is out of league(for now at least). Not installed yet. Waiting on my amp rack to tie everything together so Bose amp will do for now.

Would you recommend the wavtech to help eq the bass? Or recommend any other product to help tune the subs?
No problem, and thanks for the like. To answer your question, it depends...how does it sound right now? Subs are fairly simple to tune with just the amp (if it has filter settings). Best thing to ask is, what is it NOT doing that you want it to do?
 

Hey man! I cannot thank you enough for posting your build. It has been a huge inspiration and resource for my audio build. I’ve never tackled an install before so it’s certainly not the prettiest but it’s coming along! I thought just adding a 12” TW3 would make me happy… jokes on me.

I now have two tw5 enclosures in the back powered by a Facebook marketplace JL HD1200. I plan on putting in a dual box at some point..
8” dayton RS in the door w/SGS adapters
Hertz MP tweeters. It’s unbelievable how much louder these are on the Bose amp. I grabbed a kicker key200 to run active in Bi-amp mode since tuning a DSP on my own is out of league(for now at least). Not installed yet. Waiting on my amp rack to tie everything together so Bose amp will do for now.

Would you recommend the wavtech to help eq the bass? Or recommend any other product to help tune the subs?
Keep us posted on your progress.
 

No problem, and thanks for the like. To answer your question, it depends...how does it sound right now? Subs are fairly simple to tune with just the amp (if it has filter settings). Best thing to ask is, what is it NOT doing that you want it to do?
I honestly didn’t know how to answer your question as the sound improvements were still new and fresh. I’m going FULL RETARD.

Since we last spoke, I tried to hook up the key200 with a PAC aph GM02 harness per Don at SGS suggestion to integrate a 4ch amp. Tweeter wires played rear doors, rear speakers played tweeters, and discovered both of my front speakers aren’t playing music after reconnecting factory harness. Hopefully they disconnected at the speaker. I’ll know soon.

I just ordered Helix M6 DSP AMP, M One X, Conductor, BT HD streamer and upgrading tweets to BRAX Graphic 2” mids. This shit escalated quickly.

If you had to start over, would you still make your own T harness or use something like Bose bypass by Access?
 

I honestly didn’t know how to answer your question as the sound improvements were still new and fresh. I’m going FULL RETARD.

Since we last spoke, I tried to hook up the key200 with a PAC aph GM02 harness per Don at SGS suggestion to integrate a 4ch amp. Tweeter wires played rear doors, rear speakers played tweeters, and discovered both of my front speakers aren’t playing music after reconnecting factory harness. Hopefully they disconnected at the speaker. I’ll know soon.

I just ordered Helix M6 DSP AMP, M One X, Conductor, BT HD streamer and upgrading tweets to BRAX Graphic 2” mids. This shit escalated quickly.

If you had to start over, would you still make your own T harness or use something like Bose bypass by Access?
My friend had the axxess unit in his truck, and there were things about it I like, also things I didn't. I would probably keep it the way I've done it.

As far as everything happening to your setup...damn man! Are you sure you've been referencing the right wire pin out diagrams? This is yet another reason I stand by the way I did mine. Once I double checked (and triple checked) the pinouts, I haven't had any wiring issues. My problems are just not enough power. LOL!
 

Back
Top