It makes the stereo as it should be
Sub is perfect if anyone really wants to know what stereo in a GM with the kicker sub sounds like go sit in a new Dodge with the 210s it’s pretty comparableYikes! I’m way behind the curve! Congratulations!
My wife is hoping that mods on my new truck won’t be as expensive as the last few trucks and jeeps… You’d think she’d know better after forty years….
I’d love to hear what a stereo like that sounds like. I don’t need anything thumpy that vibrates the interior of the neighboring vehicles and homes (that would be embarrassing), but I do love quality audio.
I bought a fully loaded AT4 Duramax AEV edition. So far, all I’ve added is wheels, a Retrax bed cover, tint, and Yakima bed rack. Banks gauges, winch, compressor, and backup lights will be on the way as soon as I can find a sanitary way to mount and switch all of it, as GM doesn’t provide convenient upfitter switches and wiring harnesses like Dodge, Ford, and Jeep.
Really? I don't seem to have that issue in my truck. I must remember to take the sound meter out to check front and rear center db levels.
Your signature says you have the AT4X. That model includes additional door speakers over the basic ole AT4.
Yep 2500HD AT4X AEV edition here. I wasn't aware the AT4X had additional speakers however makes sense now. Having said that I'm still considering replacing all four door speakers with Focals, no additional amp just the speakers for a crisper sound quality.
I struggled for quite a while ago between HD AT4 and HD AT4X. I loved the seats in the x but not other interior touches, the extra speakers were not important to me. I didnt feel that I needed the upgraded suspension (I love the AT4). I like the wheels much more on the regular over the X. In the end I decided it wasn't worth $10K for seats even though I could afford it. Add on the fact that I would probably buy new tires and wheels if I had the X and the price difference should pay for the first 20,000 miles worth of fuel. I am very happy with my decision but I am going to get the bumpers wrapped in black gloss like the painted bumpers on the X.
That is correct. About 10 watts get sent to the front door speakers. At a high volume I measured less than 2 watts at rear speakers. I was diagnosing why even with fader to rear you don’t hear the rear. If you measure the system changing fader to rear just reduces signal to front speakers and does not increase sound to rear doors. Even with the system amped through DSP no additional sound to rear speakers. This is because of the signal from the Bose amp to the rear door speakers. The Bose signal to rear speakers is programmed that way. You can put $3,000 speakers in the rear doors all you want and you won’t get any more sound. You are better off spending the money on a DSP to change the signal to the rear speakers and keeping the factory speakers. That will actually do something. For best sound use a DSP and amp and change out speakers.
What is DSP? And changing it that can help the rear speakers with sound and loudness? Other post is correct moving the fader to the back virtually does nothing lol
Think of a digital sound processor as a mixer. Your speaker inputs or RCA’s feed the stock audio signals into the DSP. You then either use a computer or selector switches and dials to then change eq settings, slope, crossover points in the signal. This new cleaned up signal then goes out through speaker wire to the speakers. You can take 2 or more input signals and mix them or combine them to create a different output signal that goes to the speakers. And amp just increases power, a dsp changes the frequencies. You can also get amps that have dsp so one device does both and it wires up just like an amp
