Venom Trucks Amber Switchback DRL Kit (Promo Code)

[Clarkely]

That's what I was hoping for. I have mine in my center console as I debate.

I don't have time to trace the wires, but in my mind it has to be doable, and literally doable with a couple cheap diodes and some wire, literally.....but the time involved is finding and tracing what wires needed to work around and add power to

 

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Air Lift 89388 LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Suspension Kit - Grab one through Amazon!

[Danimalx87]

Ah shit. I did the auto-fog mod, so sounds like this just broke the deal for me... 4 hours after purchasing! Shipping label created! Nooooo!

What's the auto-fog mod and how can I do it

 

[Clarkely]

What's the auto-fog mod and how can I do it

boost auto has a all the time on fog light jumper - they have a bunch of different lighting jumpers available

i did the fogs on with high beams option - an all forward light on option

 

[Northwest4X]

boost auto has a all the time on fog light jumper - they have a bunch of different lighting jumpers available

i did the fogs on with high beams option - an all forward light on option

I did their cargo light on with reverse lights as my rear bumper lights are tied in using Podholes kit which uses the cargo light to power on. So now my rear bumper lights come on with both functions.

 

[Clarkely]

I did their cargo light on with reverse lights as my rear bumper lights are tied in using Podholes kit which uses the cargo light to power on. So now my rear bumper lights come on with both functions.

on my past trucks I did LED pods on the back, but ran to an added in switch, so I could have rear lighting when needed in park - will most likely do this to this truck as well

 

[Northwest4X]

on my past trucks I did LED pods on the back, but ran to an added in switch, so I could have rear lighting when needed in park - will most likely do this to this truck as well

The Podholes wiring kit works great, the only bummer is from what I can tell you can’t turn the cargo lights on while moving forward for safety reasons I’d imagine but that’s okay for my use. Mainly wanted these for added backing up light which is accomplished with the Boost Autonjumper and for when I’m messing with a trailer which works with the cargo lamp feature. Just added my post on this project in the forum this morning.

 

[Clarkely]

The Podholes wiring kit works great, the only bummer is from what I can tell you can’t turn the cargo lights on while moving forward for safety reasons I’d imagine but that’s okay for my use. Mainly wanted these for added backing up light which is accomplished with the Boost Autonjumper and for when I’m messing with a trailer which works with the cargo lamp feature. Just added my post on this project in the forum this morning.

the occasional A hole that is up my A$$ may have gotten a flash of bright lights at one point or another, I cant recall if I did that or not, as it probably isn't a smart, safe thing to do

 

[Danimalx87]

boost auto has a all the time on fog light jumper - they have a bunch of different lighting jumpers available

i did the fogs on with high beams option - an all forward light on option

What makes those little connectors worth $30? Can I just jam a paperclip in there?

 

[Clarkely]

What makes those little connectors worth $30? Can I just jam a paperclip in there?

they aren't lol - can easily do it yourself - I am fairly certain there is a diode/resistor inline as well.....and their install instructions further that belief as the jumper is specific in its orientation. I tried just jumping the wires and operation is not correct, I didn't bother putting a diode/resistor inline at that point, as I was ordering fender and mirror lights from Boost, so i just ordered their connector. That said i am sure you can make it up yourself with diode/resistor inline.

 

[Northwest4X]

the occasional A hole that is up my A$$ may have gotten a flash of bright lights at one point or another, I cant recall if I did that or not, as it probably isn't a smart safe thing to do

Had the exact same thought. I’m also planning for adding chase lights on the cab side of the bed so those will serve nicely for the deterrent

they aren't lol - can easily do it yourself - I am fairly certain there is a diode/resistor inline as well.....and their install instructions further that belief as the jumper is specific in its orientation. I tried just jumping the wires and operation is not correct, I didn't bother putting a diode/resistor inline at that point, as I was ordering fender and mirror lights from Boost, so i just ordered their connector. That said i am sure you can make it up yourself with diode/resistor inline.

I believe that is correct. I will say they are nice units for $30shipped. Worth avoiding the headache.

 

[ThatGuy]

I could use some input from those that have installed these in a 2024 Yukon XL. The connector on the new Venom pigtail works fine, and I have locked and unlocked it several times. The stock connector to the back of the light housing is not exactly the same, although I'm sure that it works very much the same. I can see it when I look down through the engine bay, but I cannot see it while trying to release it up through the wheel well.
In the attached graphic I have a photo of the Venom connector and a drawing of the stock connector. On the stock connector there appears to be two places to push for release, and I cannot work either one of them. Do I press down on "A" or "B"? Thank you in advance.

 

[Clarkely]

On my 2500 the connector is exactly the same from venom and oem - that said I can tell you pushing down and getting the stick one out is a PIA, it comes out hard, you can feel when tab is pushed down to release and faintly hear it, and it takes force to pull. Wiggle and pull while pressing down on tab put not pushing connector down, gripping holding it up. It was a struggle for my big hands ....but it eventually came out. It seals in tight for good reason.

 

[Northwest4X]

I could use some input from those that have installed these in a 2024 Yukon XL. The connector on the new Venom pigtail works fine, and I have locked and unlocked it several times. The stock connector to the back of the light housing is not exactly the same, although I'm sure that it works very much the same. I can see it when I look down through the engine bay, but I cannot see it while trying to release it up through the wheel well.
In the attached graphic I have a photo of the Venom connector and a drawing of the stock connector. On the stock connector there appears to be two places to push for release, and I cannot work either one of them. Do I press down on "A" or "B"? Thank you in advance.

Gotta just straight pull the red tab between “a” and “b” back. Use a trim tool to get leverage to pull it back. Then you’ll press down on the back part in front of that to release as Clarkely says. Here’s a reel I made to help explain:
Instagram
YouTube

Hope this helps.

 

[ThatGuy]

Gotta just straight pull the red tab between “a” and “b” back. Use a trim tool to get leverage to pull it back. Then you’ll press down on the back part in front of that to release as Clarkely says. Here’s a reel I made to help explain:
Instagram
YouTube

Hope this helps.

Thanks to you and Clarkley for your response.
I was easily able to get the red tab to pull back without any tools. I am now at the release phase, and my connector doesn't have the black button in the middle to push down. I played around with the Venom pigtail connector, and that one is straight forward and easy to manipulate, but the stock connector into the light housing is different. I think the red square in my diagram, (A) is where the release is, but it is so small compared to the black button on the other connector that it has been a challenge. The red square is flush with the black plastic around it so I cannot depress it with a finger, I will have to use a small tool to push it down. On the driver side I can get two hands up in there, but as I'm sure you know, on the passenger side all of this has to happen with one hand...
I will give it another go later today or early tomorrow morning.
Thanks again for the responses.

 

[Northwest4X]

Thanks to you and Clarkley for your response.
I was easily able to get the red tab to pull back without any tools. I am now at the release phase, and my connector doesn't have the black button in the middle to push down. I played around with the Venom pigtail connector, and that one is straight forward and easy to manipulate, but the stock connector into the light housing is different. I think the red square in my diagram, (A) is where the release is, but it is so small compared to the black button on the other connector that it has been a challenge. The red square is flush with the black plastic around it so I cannot depress it with a finger, I will have to use a small tool to push it down. On the driver side I can get two hands up in there, but as I'm sure you know, on the passenger side all of this has to happen with one hand...
I will give it another go later today or early tomorrow morning.
Thanks again for the responses.

Any chance you can get a picture of the connection in question?