*LEVELED * AT4 TRUCKS - LET SEE THEM PICTURE PLEASE

For anyone that has used the 5100s, do you know how much lift the preload spacer adds? I left mine off and used the second circlip position, along with the RL 2" SST kit. I was worried of getting too level and being nose high with 100lbs in the bed. Turns out I still have 1" of rake unloaded and still was looking at the sky with a loaded trailer on.
So I'm going to put bags on the back to help with the trailer sag, but still need to bring the front up. Since there will be load leveling in the back I'm trying to decide if I just put the preloads in, move to the top circlip position, or both. I know the position move should be another .55", and .5" of rake isn't terrible, but I don't know what the preload spacer would add and can't seem to find anything.
 

Truck w 35 Tires 04 28 2024.webp

285/65/20 (34.6" x 11.5") fit with no rubbing and clear UCA with Redi Lift 1.75" Level. I have a Ranch Hand bumper and I removed the bracket that supports the front mudflap.
 

Anyone put a level kit on and adjust the headlights down to compensate. Looking for a how to video so everyone isn’t flashing me their high beams when mine are set on low.
 

Anyone put a level kit on and adjust the headlights down to compensate. Looking for a how to video so everyone isn’t flashing me their high beams when mine are set on low.
Open the hood and look at the top of the headlight housing. You will see a hole with screw head down in there, think I used a #2 philips head. And if memory serves correctly, clockwise is down. I parked about 30' from a wall and just turned until the top of the beam dropped about 1.5".

This is all on a pre-refresh. Not sure if the 22.5+ changed.
 

How does this ride after installing this leveling kit?
I think it is better than before but the spacers help with stabilization too in my opinion. I used 2” spacers on the stock 20’s. Adding both seems to translate to a better ride. I have the leveling kit professionally installed. A bit past my experience and tool capability.
 

Open the hood and look at the top of the headlight housing. You will see a hole with screw head down in there, think I used a #2 philips head. And if memory serves correctly, clockwise is down. I parked about 30' from a wall and just turned until the top of the beam dropped about 1.5".

This is all on a pre-refresh. Not sure if the 22.5+ changed.
Perfect thank you!
 

Your set up looks amazing! I’m considering the same lift and same size tires but I have a couple of questions:

Do you have any rubbing issues and if so, what was needed to correct it?

How does the truck drive with the 35x12.5x17’s? Is it looser in corners or still pretty stable?

Do you notice gear hunting on the highway or have you noticed that it rarely shifts into 10th gear on the highway?

What shocks did you pair with the ready lift?
I appreciate the help!
 

Your set up looks amazing! I’m considering the same lift and same size tires but I have a couple of questions:

Do you have any rubbing issues and if so, what was needed to correct it?

How does the truck drive with the 35x12.5x17’s? Is it looser in corners or still pretty stable?

Do you notice gear hunting on the highway or have you noticed that it rarely shifts into 10th gear on the highway?

What shocks did you pair with the ready lift?
I appreciate the help!
Great questions. I'll answer them in order:

You will have some rubbing. With some trial and error I ended up removing the Mudflap bracket and trimmed where needed. You can also delete the mudflap entirely if you like that option.

The truck drives great. These tires are a 10-ply side wall, so they are a lot stiffer than stocks so I run the tire pressure around 36-40lbs which gives me a good balance of stability in corners and ride comfort.

The truck doesn't have any issues with gearing. It gets to 10th just fine on the highway. You will lose some MPG due to the sizing. I average 21mpg in total, and get 22-24 on the highway at 70+ mph. This truck loves going 50-65 and will get 26+mpg with that.

I have the stock Rancho shocks for now. I will upgrade to Bilstein 5100's most likely when these are worn.
 

Great questions. I'll answer them in order:

You will have some rubbing. With some trial and error I ended up removing the Mudflap bracket and trimmed where needed. You can also delete the mudflap entirely if you like that option.

The truck drives great. These tires are a 10-ply side wall, so they are a lot stiffer than stocks so I run the tire pressure around 36-40lbs which gives me a good balance of stability in corners and ride comfort.

The truck doesn't have any issues with gearing. It gets to 10th just fine on the highway. You will lose some MPG due to the sizing. I average 21mpg in total, and get 22-24 on the highway at 70+ mph. This truck loves going 50-65 and will get 26+mpg with that.

I have the stock Rancho shocks for now. I will upgrade to Bilstein 5100's most likely when these are worn.
Thanks for the info. I’m pretty close to making a decision so this helps. I wasn’t sure if I’d have to change out the stock Ranchos after the level kit is installed but you just answered that for me. I appreciate it! Your rig is awesome.
 

Thanks for the info. I’m pretty close to making a decision so this helps. I wasn’t sure if I’d have to change out the stock Ranchos after the level kit is installed but you just answered that for me. I appreciate it! Your rig is awesome.
You don't have to replace the Ranchos. Many aren't fans of the ranchos and do find the 5100's are a better ride and give a little extra lift if needed.
 

I think it is better than before but the spacers help with stabilization too in my opinion. I used 2” spacers on the stock 20’s. Adding both seems to translate to a better ride. I have the leveling kit professionally installed. A bit past my experience and tool capability.
Did you do new UCA’s too? You may have regrets if you didn’t.
 

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