Added oem tailgate lights repurposed for footwell lights...

So I took a lot of ideas and advice from this thread and put my own spin on it. Don’t want to hijack things, but I figured that having all the footwell lighting ideas in one spot might be helpful for future users. I decided to use VLED bar lighting placed in strategic locations throughout the cab. They have a lot of plug-and-play options for enhancing vehicles with existing footwell lighting, and I have used them previously to good effect in my Tundra.

https://www.vleds.com/shop-products/light-bars.html

Essentially, they are dasiy-chainable LED lights, pre-wired with male and female connectors. All you need to do is determine the amount and length of extensions you need to chain the lights together, and a power/ground pigtail at the start of the chain. They have both standard configuration (wiring runs from the ends of the light bar) and what they call “side exit”, where the wiring runs from the center. I used both, depending on the specifics of the mounting location.

Standard vs side exit:

IMG_8970.webp


My original plan (which sprawled a little at the end) was to put one bar under the dash in front of both the driver and passenger seats, and also to add a single light bar to the side pockets of the center console. I could tell that there was a seam in the trim there that would be perfect for running the wiring for the side pocket lights. So one pigtail for power, four lights, two y-splitters, a two-foot extension (to run behind the dash from driver to passenger sides) and two one-foot extensions (to run from the y-splitters back to the console pockets). I could then continue the chair rearward if I wanted to add rear-facing lights under the seats.

May be a little difficult to make out on the ground, but here’s the general signal chain laid out ahead of time:

IMG_8954.webp


That said, I got to work. Trim removal is pretty straightforward, and only required removing the inner kick panels/console sides. Once they’re out, you have plenty of access to run the wiring across the cab and back down the console.

Kick panels removed:

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Plenty easy to run wiring side to side:

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Natural gap in trim where side pocket lights can ride:

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The lights come with double sided adhesive pads, velcro pads, and zip ties to give you a variety of mounting options. In most places, I used a combination of the adhesive pad with zip ties for added security. Driver’s side footwell light was easy to mount on the under dash A/C vent, and was just about the perfect position for the power and ground wires to run. I used a standard light here.

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Passenger side I used a side exit light. The wires run up under the jute padding under the dash and essentially hold the light in perfect position. I didn’t use any attachments at all here.

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I then came back alongside the console from the y-splitters. A one-foot extension on either side is all it takes, and the wiring hides nicely in the natural voids of trim pieces. I again used the side exit lights, which keeps the wiring practically invisible. This was about the only place where I didn’t have the option of backing up the sticky pads with zip ties, so I was sure to degrease the underside of the trim and use 3M adhesion promoter. Once in place, everything buttoned up nicely.

IMG_9035.webp


**At this point, I’ve hit my photo limit for a single post, so I’m going to split this into separate posts. Stand by for Part II shortly…**
 

**Part II**

I then continued the wiring under the seats, making sure nothing would get caught in the adjustment tracks. There wasn’t an obvious mounting point under the seats that would allow the lights to face forward, but I did notice this natural gap in the front of the seat upholstery. There was just enough room to snake extensions through there and pull the wires of a side exit light taut. Came out perfect.

IMG_8975.webp


IMG_8976.webp


I did end up using a small zip tie to ensure things stayed put. I didn’t really want to, but it really only covers one diode and doesn’t effect the overall output much.

IMG_9026.webp


This was all I had originally planned to do, as I almost never have rear seat passengers and there’s an underseat subwoofer box back there with its own lighting. But in keeping with the idea that anything worth doing is worth overdoing, since I was already this far into the project I pressed on a little further. It was easy enough to continue the wiring under the seat to the back, but the mounting options got very slim back there. The only underseat mounting locations were off-center and further under the center of the seat than I would have preferred. I saw where I could place on under the rear of the seat back upholstery, but that would be firing almost straight down and I was concerned that it wouldn’t throw enough light rearward. So I said “what the hell” and installed both, hoping that the two combined would cover the area without any noticeable shadowing. I used standard lights on the underseat brackets and side exit lights under the upholstery. (And apparently failed to take any pictures of that part…)

All that was left to do at that point was use a GM molex connector to the BCM plug as listed earlier in this thread, which was far and away the most difficult part of the entire operation. I cussed and contorted and had to pull every module out of the whole thing to get to that rear plug. About halfway through the operation, the BCM started shifting around as I was futzing with the plugs; it eventually came out altogether.

IMG_9045.webp


Not sure if it just rides up there in a void, or if there were tabs or clips I managed to break off. At the very least, it was helpful to be able to take a photo of the color legend on the back to help me make sure I plugged all the modules back in correctly.

If you’ve read this far, here’s the photos you’ve been waiting for:

IMG_9050.webp


IMG_9055.webp


IMG_9056.webp


IMG_9057.webp


Really happy with the light spread and the fact that the emitters themselves are hidden from view. The side pocket lights cast a good amount down into the pockets in case you’re searching for something in there.

So overall cost on this was just under $350, including shipping and the molex connector, which was $40 from eBay. The biggest cost driver is the lights themselves, which are $22 each. Doing the side pockets and doubling up under the rear seats really increased the total cost, which I’m okay with as I’m very happy with the end result. If you were just wanting to run one light under the dash for driver and passenger, all you’d need would be two lights, a two-foot extension and a power/ground pigtail, which would get you up and running for about $50. The point is that it’s scalable to your wants and needs.

The lights themselves only draw .125 amps each. This puts me slightly over the one-amp total I would have liked to have stayed under, but for the short duration they’ll be on, I don’t think it’s a big deal. I can always knock off one set of rear seat lights to get things down to one amp.

If anyone’s curious, here’s the parts list for the total project:

3 standard 6000K pure white bar lights
7 side exit 6000K pure white bar lights ($220 total in lights)
7 two-foot extensions: ($21 total)
5 one-foot extensions ($10 total)
2 Y-splitters ($8 total)
1 power/ground pigtail ($5)
1 five-pack of 3M adhesion promoter swabs ($15)
1 GM molex connector ($40 from eBay)

Total: $319 plus shipping. You can obviously save costs in various places.

That’s about it. Questions or comments, let me know.
 

Last edited:
My wire came in today. Got my footwell lights installed.

Thanks to gemarsh - I copied your idea on the multipro step lights but integrated into 2024 wiring.

Total cost $40 step led lights (with wire harness which most Amazon step lights don’t include and are required for the lights) $37.50 OEM BCM wire.

Work perfect, dim and function with dome lights. Really good light output and OEM look.
Got all my supplies for this mod (Amazon tail gate lights $45 https://a.co/d/5OkJ7E5 ).

I went with the Venomtruck.com dome light plug in adapter for the black BCM port ($25) for power. https://venomtrucks.com/product/dome-light-module/

I’m also adding a glovebox light ($10) to the wiring harness as well to turn on when the dome lights come on. https://a.co/d/4cb2tew

How did you cut the plastic panels for the foot well lights?

Thanks for all the great information and inspiration!
 

Ordered an extra pair of tailgate lights to convert to footwell lights. Kit came with a wiring harness which made it like oem.

Used a bottle torch to heat the Stanley knife to "mill" the kick panels on the center console.

Wiretapping into the BCM, making the footwell lights work with cab lights. They dim down like the rest. Did not use a relay, as each light draws .7 watts.

Wiring harness was just the correct length.

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How did you cut the holes for the foot well lights? Did you use the tailgate mounts as a pattern? Jigsaw, rotozip, utility knife or a hot knife? Thanks and well done!
 

How did you cut the holes for the foot well lights? Did you use the tailgate mounts as a pattern? Jigsaw, rotozip, utility knife or a hot knife? Thanks and well done!
Utility knife heated with a small hand held propane torch, like used for soldering copper pipes. Put blue painters tape down and traced around the mount and followed the lines with knife.
 

If anyone’s looking to do this mod and hasn’t sourced the lights yet, let me know. I just upgraded my tailgate lights and removed the factory pair that folks are transplanting for footwell lights. I have both lights and the OEM tailgate harness. PM me a shipping address and they’re yours for free. I’ve got way too many spare parts in the garage as it is.
IMG_9099.webp
 

I'm very interested in doing this and will be tackling it soon. I have a list of parts I need to get. I will be powering it with a small PWM LED amplifier instead of a relay. Any issues you all see with doing it that way?

 

Utility knife heated with a small hand held propane torch, like used for soldering copper pipes. Put blue painters tape down and traced around the mount and followed the lines with knife.
Thanks! That worked like a champ. Used a torch with a box cutter. Heating the box cutter also allowed me to smooth any rough plastic after cutting The holes for the lights. Here are the post pictures. Took about 2hrs with me taking my time and rearranging some wiring.

What’s the next MOD on our list? I want to add separate switchable in cab accent lighting to operate while driving but I need to figure out which switch I want to use.
 

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Thanks! That worked like a champ. Used a torch with a box cutter. Heating the box cutter also allowed me to smooth any rough plastic after cutting The holes for the lights. Here are the post pictures. Took about 2hrs with me taking my time and rearranging some wiring.

What’s the next MOD on our list? I want to add separate switchable in cab accent lighting to operate while driving but I need to figure out which switch I want to use.
I didn't realize the refresh went back to a single glovebox.

Nice job.
 

I didn't realize the refresh went back to a single glovebox.

Nice job.
Thanks,

It has a 2nd small felt lined box above the lit one that I didn’t mess with but could easily add another LED to that one for $10 now that I know how all the panels come apart.
 

**Part II**

I then continued the wiring under the seats, making sure nothing would get caught in the adjustment tracks. There wasn’t an obvious mounting point under the seats that would allow the lights to face forward, but I did notice this natural gap in the front of the seat upholstery. There was just enough room to snake extensions through there and pull the wires of a side exit light taut. Came out perfect.

View attachment 34962

View attachment 35000

I did end up using a small zip tie to ensure things stayed put. I didn’t really want to, but it really only covers one diode and doesn’t effect the overall output much.

View attachment 34964

This was all I had originally planned to do, as I almost never have rear seat passengers and there’s an underseat subwoofer box back there with its own lighting. But in keeping with the idea that anything worth doing is worth overdoing, since I was already this far into the project I pressed on a little further. It was easy enough to continue the wiring under the seat to the back, but the mounting options got very slim back there. The only underseat mounting locations were off-center and further under the center of the seat than I would have preferred. I saw where I could place on under the rear of the seat back upholstery, but that would be firing almost straight down and I was concerned that it wouldn’t throw enough light rearward. So I said “what the hell” and installed both, hoping that the two combined would cover the area without any noticeable shadowing. I used standard lights on the underseat brackets and side exit lights under the upholstery. (And apparently failed to take any pictures of that part…)

All that was left to do at that point was use a GM molex connector to the BCM plug as listed earlier in this thread, which was far and away the most difficult part of the entire operation. I cussed and contorted and had to pull every module out of the whole thing to get to that rear plug. About halfway through the operation, the BCM started shifting around as I was futzing with the plugs; it eventually came out altogether.

View attachment 34967

Not sure if it just rides up there in a void, or if there were tabs or clips I managed to break off. At the very least, it was helpful to be able to take a photo of the color legend on the back to help me make sure I plugged all the modules back in correctly.

If you’ve read this far, here’s the photos you’ve been waiting for:

View attachment 35004

View attachment 35005

View attachment 35006

View attachment 35007

Really happy with the light spread and the fact that the emitters themselves are hidden from view. The side pocket lights cast a good amount down into the pockets in case you’re searching for something in there.

So overall cost on this was just under $350, including shipping and the molex connector, which was $40 from eBay. The biggest cost driver is the lights themselves, which are $22 each. Doing the side pockets and doubling up under the rear seats really increased the total cost, which I’m okay with as I’m very happy with the end result. If you were just wanting to run one light under the dash for driver and passenger, all you’d need would be two lights, a two-foot extension and a power/ground pigtail, which would get you up and running for about $50. The point is that it’s scalable to your wants and needs.

The lights themselves only draw .125 amps each. This puts me slightly over the one-amp total I would have liked to have stayed under, but for the short duration they’ll be on, I don’t think it’s a big deal. I can always knock off one set of rear seat lights to get things down to one amp.

If anyone’s curious, here’s the parts list for the total project:

3 standard 6000K pure white bar lights
7 side exit 6000K pure white bar lights ($220 total in lights)
7 two-foot extensions: ($21 total)
5 one-foot extensions ($10 total)
2 Y-splitters ($8 total)
1 power/ground pigtail ($5)
1 five-pack of 3M adhesion promoter swabs ($15)
1 GM molex connector ($40 from eBay)

Total: $319 plus shipping. You can obviously save costs in various places.

That’s about it. Questions or comments, let me know.

**Part II**

I then continued the wiring under the seats, making sure nothing would get caught in the adjustment tracks. There wasn’t an obvious mounting point under the seats that would allow the lights to face forward, but I did notice this natural gap in the front of the seat upholstery. There was just enough room to snake extensions through there and pull the wires of a side exit light taut. Came out perfect.

View attachment 34962

View attachment 35000

I did end up using a small zip tie to ensure things stayed put. I didn’t really want to, but it really only covers one diode and doesn’t effect the overall output much.

View attachment 34964

This was all I had originally planned to do, as I almost never have rear seat passengers and there’s an underseat subwoofer box back there with its own lighting. But in keeping with the idea that anything worth doing is worth overdoing, since I was already this far into the project I pressed on a little further. It was easy enough to continue the wiring under the seat to the back, but the mounting options got very slim back there. The only underseat mounting locations were off-center and further under the center of the seat than I would have preferred. I saw where I could place on under the rear of the seat back upholstery, but that would be firing almost straight down and I was concerned that it wouldn’t throw enough light rearward. So I said “what the hell” and installed both, hoping that the two combined would cover the area without any noticeable shadowing. I used standard lights on the underseat brackets and side exit lights under the upholstery. (And apparently failed to take any pictures of that part…)

All that was left to do at that point was use a GM molex connector to the BCM plug as listed earlier in this thread, which was far and away the most difficult part of the entire operation. I cussed and contorted and had to pull every module out of the whole thing to get to that rear plug. About halfway through the operation, the BCM started shifting around as I was futzing with the plugs; it eventually came out altogether.

View attachment 34967

Not sure if it just rides up there in a void, or if there were tabs or clips I managed to break off. At the very least, it was helpful to be able to take a photo of the color legend on the back to help me make sure I plugged all the modules back in correctly.

If you’ve read this far, here’s the photos you’ve been waiting for:

View attachment 35004

View attachment 35005

View attachment 35006

View attachment 35007

Really happy with the light spread and the fact that the emitters themselves are hidden from view. The side pocket lights cast a good amount down into the pockets in case you’re searching for something in there.

So overall cost on this was just under $350, including shipping and the molex connector, which was $40 from eBay. The biggest cost driver is the lights themselves, which are $22 each. Doing the side pockets and doubling up under the rear seats really increased the total cost, which I’m okay with as I’m very happy with the end result. If you were just wanting to run one light under the dash for driver and passenger, all you’d need would be two lights, a two-foot extension and a power/ground pigtail, which would get you up and running for about $50. The point is that it’s scalable to your wants and needs.

The lights themselves only draw .125 amps each. This puts me slightly over the one-amp total I would have liked to have stayed under, but for the short duration they’ll be on, I don’t think it’s a big deal. I can always knock off one set of rear seat lights to get things down to one amp.

If anyone’s curious, here’s the parts list for the total project:

3 standard 6000K pure white bar lights
7 side exit 6000K pure white bar lights ($220 total in lights)
7 two-foot extensions: ($21 total)
5 one-foot extensions ($10 total)
2 Y-splitters ($8 total)
1 power/ground pigtail ($5)
1 five-pack of 3M adhesion promoter swabs ($15)
1 GM molex connector ($40 from eBay)

Total: $319 plus shipping. You can obviously save costs in various places.

That’s about it. Questions or comments, let me know.
The lighting looks great!
 

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