200 watt kicker subwoofer

[john151ama]

Your schematic lists a pioneer 8 inch, but post and pic shows a Solo Baric. Change of plans?

Yeah, I had the 8” from my previous truck (molded enclosure from under a F150 rear seat) so put that in first just to use what I already had. Worked great but I pushed it too hard and blew it. So I built the new box and put in the 10” Solo. It is 500w RMS and my amp is 500w RMS at 1 ohm.

 

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[black98z71]

If you want a simple setup for what the kicker cost get a JL audio power wedge plus. The 10” and 12” fit under the rear passenger side seat great. You won’t be disappointed by the performance.
All you need is a Kicker Keyloc. To steal signal from the any of the Bose speakers ( front right or Sub signal are best) and let it do its magic. I tried the Audiocontrol LC2I, JL audio loc-22, and wavetec- they all sucked compared to the Kicker Keyloc.

To add- the JL power wedge has quick connects to take it out for the space in 30 seconds. I take it out for both of my gun dogs to have room in the back.

PS- the Kicker Keyloc isn’t perfect (VS using a AmpPro or NavTV and DSP =$$$) but is the best(IMHO) LOC for Automatic Factory EQ correction.

Phobby, are you confident the 12 powerwedge plus fits under the seat? I have a '24 sierra 1500 AT4X. Comparing the 10 to the 12 and just curious if both are viable options for my truck. Will be also doing the Keyloc.
Thanks.

 

[phobby]

Phobby, are you confident the 12 powerwedge plus fits under the seat? I have a '24 sierra 1500 AT4X. Comparing the 10 to the 12 and just curious if both are viable options for my truck. Will be also doing the Keyloc.
Thanks.

I have the 12” under my backseat. Removed the jack so it only uses the floor under the rear passenger side single seat. Took an oscillator tool and trimmed off that end of the under seat storage.

Just remembered, if you get the 12” it has to be the sealed box. JL has 4 powerwedge + models, 10 and 12” sealed box or ported box. The Ported box does not fit.

 

[sanny651]

Do you have any pictures of the install you can share?

Sorry I'm just getting to this dude. I didn't take pics, but this spring I'm going to go back and make a backer board that will go behind the rear seat against the cab. I'll relocate the amp and clean everything up nice and tidy like. I wanted to temp it in place first in case I wanted to change something up...easier now vs. if everything is perfectly fit. I'll try to take some pics then. In the meantime, there are some solid videos out there showing this install approach vs. tapping into the speaker lines in the pillar.

 

[Wrangler22]

That is not entirely accurate. The yellow and yellow black are for the front right door speaker (6x9”) and front A pillar tweeter on the Bose equipped models. The factory kicker sub does instruct to tap those for installing the aftermarket OEM kicker sub. However the factory sub that is under the center console area is the factory installed sub and is fed by GN / BK (-) BU / GY (+). You will find those coming out of the factory Bose amp as well.

This is another reason why the aftermarket kicker sub kind of sucks. You run it off the front door speaker wires because the OEM sucks so bad the system reduces signal to it the more you turn the volume up to keep it from self destructing. So they have you tap the front door speakers because they don’t reduce signal as the volume is raised. But that is a full signal (including high level frequency) and doesn’t go down as far as most good subs would want (usually in the 40ish hz range). Getting a better sub with Digital signal processor amp or amp and separate DSP will allow you to provide the correct Hz to the sub, giving much better sound and performance.

I agree and decided to go with a better sub. (JL Audio stealthbox) they make a box to fit under our specific rear seats. My question.... should I tap my LOC (lc2i pro) into the Green/Black (-) Blue/Grey (+) wires?? I've seen videos showing both. By both I mean some connect to yellow & yellow/black.

 

[john151ama]

I agree and decided to go with a better sub. (JL Audio stealthbox) they make a box to fit under our specific rear seats. My question.... should I tap my LOC (lc2i pro) into the Green/Black (-) Blue/Grey (+) wires?? I've seen videos showing both. By both I mean some connect to yellow & yellow/black.

I tired various combos. First used the factory sub wires as inputs, GN / BK (-), BU / GY (+).
It was too narrow of a frequency band for a better performing sub and sounded muted.

Then I tried just the yellow/yellow black from the right hand front doors. It was better. I then tried a combo of the factory sub and the front right door speakers thinking a broader frequency spectrum to send to the processor in the amp. A little better. I then went to front left door and front right door, BN/BU (-) BU (+), YE / BK (-) YE (+). That was the best. My kicker amp with keylock takes two speaker channels for inputs then does its processing.

Your results may differ based on amp and DSP used but using both front channels was the best by far.

I just tapped in to the wires coming out of the factory Bose amp which made checking easy. I had to cut all the wires anyways to run them in to my amps then ran all new speaker wires from amps to speakers. I used 4 wire sheathed bundles going to each door and have the tweeters and woofers on their own channels off my 8 channel amp so that solved those other OEM issues.

I found OEM sub signal is very narrow and very weak. Also drops off as volume is raised. The rear door speakers have virtually no signal. Don’t tap those.

 

[Wrangler22]

I tired various combos. First used the factory sub wires as inputs, GN / BK (-), BU / GY (+).
It was too narrow of a frequency band for a better performing sub and sounded muted.

Then I tried just the yellow/yellow black from the right hand front doors. It was better. I then tried a combo of the factory sub and the front right door speakers thinking a broader frequency spectrum to send to the processor in the amp. A little better. I then went to front left door and front right door, BN/BU (-) BU (+), YE / BK (-) YE (+). That was the best. My kicker amp with keylock takes two speaker channels for inputs then does its processing.

Your results may differ based on amp and DSP used but using both front channels was the best by far.

I just tapped in to the wires coming out of the factory Bose amp which made checking easy. I had to cut all the wires anyways to run them in to my amps then ran all new speaker wires from amps to speakers. I used 4 wire sheathed bundles going to each door and have the tweeters and woofers on their own channels off my 8 channel amp so that solved those other OEM issues.

I found OEM sub signal is very narrow and very weak. Also drops off as volume is raised. The rear door speakers have virtually no signal. Don’t tap those.

 

[Wrangler22]

If I have the Green/Black (-) Blue/Grey (+) wires does that mean my truck has a factory sub?
My understanding was that I have the factory Bose speakers w/ a factory amp but no sub. I could be wrong.
I have a 2023 2500HD AT4. Anyways, I'd like to mount everything on an amp rack behind my back seat. Any recomendations on which wires to tap and run to my LC2i Pro? Amp is JL Audio 1000.

 

[john151ama]

If I have the Green/Black (-) Blue/Grey (+) wires does that mean my truck has a factory sub?
My understanding was that I have the factory Bose speakers w/ a factory amp but no sub. I could be wrong.
I have a 2023 2500HD AT4. Anyways, I'd like to mount everything on an amp rack behind my back seat. Any recomendations on which wires to tap and run to my LC2i Pro? Amp is JL Audio 1000.

Sorry not sure if they do a different amp or just different program. You should not have the sub in the AT4. They may still have the wires there as that is pretty typical to run the same wire bundles but not have them hooked to anything. They could be live if it is the same amp or dead if they change the program by model.

You could test them to see if they are live, but I don’t think you want them even if they are.

I would use both sets of the front sort speakers if your LC2i pro has multi channel inputs. Otherwise I would just use a front door as the input.

 

[black98z71]

I built my own. 10” dual voice coil Kicker SoloBaric wired to 1 0hm load, running off a 500w Kicker amp with DSP. 8 channel JBL amp with DSP running 4 new door speakers and 4 new tweeters. Had to run new speaker wires to separate the door mids and tweeters so I can control those separately to tune correctly. Replaced the 3 dash speakers but left those on OEM amp as I wanted to blend them with the others for surround sound not the dash heavy “concert” sound they provide OEM.

Thanks for all this info. I bought the audiocontrol 2.75s to direct replace the dash corners. I also bought one for the center dash speaker, but upon removing the stock one just now, I noticed the stock center is larger than the 2.75. Do you know the exact size to order?
Thanks

 

[john151ama]

I don’t remember the center being a different size. I put the same 2.75” AudioControl in the center same as the dash corners. I may have made an adapter ring but I think it was direct screw in. I just wanted better clarity out of the dash, not increased volume so wanted all 3 the same. I have the majority of the sound now coming from the 6x9’s and 6.5’s. I keep 1/8” and 1/4” sheets of plastic around I can cut adapters out of when needed and do that pretty often.

 

[black98z71]

I don’t remember the center being a different size. I put the same 2.75” AudioControl in the center same as the dash corners. I may have made an adapter ring but I think it was direct screw in. I just wanted better clarity out of the dash, not increased volume so wanted all 3 the same. I have the majority of the sound now coming from the 6x9’s and 6.5’s. I keep 1/8” and 1/4” sheets of plastic around I can cut adapters out of when needed and do that pretty often.

Understood. You must have made a bracket. I'll see if I can get creative enough to do that.
thanks

 

[john151ama]

Understood. You must have made a bracket. I'll see if I can get creative enough to do that.
thanks

I get these sheets off Amazon. Can get different sizes and thickness. The 1/8” is plenty for that little speaker. You can drill it or just cut with a razor blade. I have a set of large hole saws 2” up to 6.5” that go on my drill. So I clamp the plastic sheet on a piece of wood and drill the center hole first, then trim the outside profile second. You can cut it all the way through with 2 passes of a good box cutter. Put the OEM speaker upside down on it and trace the outline and screw holes and you have a custom plate in a couple minutes.

 

[Thx1158]

For those that have it, is it worth getting? Make a difference?

I just finished a small project. Audiofrog G25's in the corner dash and a Kicker HS12 under the rear drivers side seat. It made a HUGE difference. The kicker is a powered sub with 230 watts. I had to remove the storage tray but it fits neatly back there at a slight angle.

 

[The_DJH]

I just finished a small project. Audiofrog G25's in the corner dash and a Kicker HS12 under the rear drivers side seat. It made a HUGE difference. The kicker is a powered sub with 230 watts. I had to remove the storage tray but it fits neatly back there at a slight angle.

You tapped into the same yellow wires?

Coming from a Model 3 LR, it has KILLER AUDIO and I’m wanting to get something close without breaking the bank. I ordered the OEM kicker, but if the HS12 works well and possible fits in the under seat storage, I’d definitely send the kicker back.

That aside, I’ll do the dash speakers and the doors ones too.