200 watt kicker subwoofer

You tapped into the same yellow wires?

Coming from a Model 3 LR, it has KILLER AUDIO and I’m wanting to get something close without breaking the bank. I ordered the OEM kicker, but if the HS12 works well and possible fits in the under seat storage, I’d definitely send the kicker back.

That aside, I’ll do the dash speakers and the doors ones too.
I had a fully custom Audison 12 channel dsp amp with Hertz speakers replacing the lame JBL in my Land Cruiser. The 12 fits, works superbly and uses a harness so you don’t need mess with wiring. The G25 Audiofrog are awesome, works with the stock amp, and play a bit louder. I did use bass blockers on them. You loose the under-seat cargo tray, but it was worth it for me.
 

I had a fully custom Audison 12 channel dsp amp with Hertz speakers replacing the lame JBL in my Land Cruiser. The 12 fits, works superbly and uses a harness so you don’t need mess with wiring. The G25 Audiofrog are awesome, works with the stock amp, and play a bit louder. I did use bass blockers on them. You loose the under-seat cargo tray, but it was worth it for me.
I’m not familiar with the extra amp, but if it’s plug-n-play and has presets, I’m down! Ha ha

I’ll look into the other sub and watch some install videos.

Thanks
 

Am I reading this right?


I need that adapter and a multi-channel amplifier paired with it? Or that adapter and a different amp?
 

You need an amp of your choosing and a DSP if the amp you get does not have DSP.

This wiring just sends the signal from your factory amp that does out to your speakers to your new amp/DSP this then sends the signal out to the speakers without cutting the wires.

You also don’t need this wiring at all. You can cut the wires coming out of the Bose and and run those into an amp/dsp, then run the speaker outs from the amp/dsp to the end of the factory speaker wire you cut.

This wiring does nothing for you without a amp/DSP connected to it cleaning up the signal then adding more power out to the speakers.
 

That is not entirely accurate. The yellow and yellow black are for the front right door speaker (6x9”) and front A pillar tweeter on the Bose equipped models. The factory kicker sub does instruct to tap those for installing the aftermarket OEM kicker sub. However the factory sub that is under the center console area is the factory installed sub and is fed by GN / BK (-) BU / GY (+). You will find those coming out of the factory Bose amp as well.

This is another reason why the aftermarket kicker sub kind of sucks. You run it off the front door speaker wires because the OEM sucks so bad the system reduces signal to it the more you turn the volume up to keep it from self destructing. So they have you tap the front door speakers because they don’t reduce signal as the volume is raised. But that is a full signal (including high level frequency) and doesn’t go down as far as most good subs would want (usually in the 40ish hz range). Getting a better sub with Digital signal processor amp or amp and separate DSP will allow you to provide the correct Hz to the sub, giving much better sound and performance.
I got that kicker, but I wired it with the factory sub wiring. I tapped in at bottom of center console. That way the sub is only getting the signals it is meant to play. I don't notice signal loss as volume increases. I did a lot of reading on multiple forums about where the kicker should receive it's signals from and the way I did it made the most sense to me. Wiring from stuff going to the door and dash is gonna send it high frequencies too and without a HPF that seemed dumb. All I can say is that it sounds adequate now. I did also replace all door and dash speakers with ones that all have the proper ohms for each location (because Bose 🤣), and put speaker rings on all of them and soundskins dampening panels in the doors. Does it pound? No. Does it sound clean at all volumes with zero rattling? Yes. In hindsight I should have gone with a different sub setup, but the way this one fits under the seat and still keeps some storage was a deciding factor. I never came across anything saying that the Bose subwoofer channel reduced signal with volume increase. That's interesting and slightly concerning at the same time! Thanks for sharing that bit. @Sevenonfouroff I'd listen to the masses here and go with something other than the GM Kicker. It doesn't sound bad, but it definitely leaves a lot to be desired.
 

I had a fully custom Audison 12 channel dsp amp with Hertz speakers replacing the lame JBL in my Land Cruiser. The 12 fits, works superbly and uses a harness so you don’t need mess with wiring. The G25 Audiofrog are awesome, works with the stock amp, and play a bit louder. I did use bass blockers on them. You loose the under-seat cargo tray, but it was worth it for me.
Re the Audiofrog G25 in the dash with bass blockers, does your navigation, chimes, and bluetooth phone still play through the speakers? I did the audiocontrol pnw-275 with included bass blockers and loss all functions noted above. I tried running them without the blockers and regained theses functions, but the speakers popped pretty badly at loud volume.
 

Re the Audiofrog G25 in the dash with bass blockers, does your navigation, chimes, and bluetooth phone still play through the speakers? I did the audiocontrol pnw-275 with included bass blockers and loss all functions noted above. I tried running them without the blockers and regained theses functions, but the speakers popped pretty badly at loud volume.
Everything works perfectly. Not sure if the blockers matter but I used the recommended blockers from Crutchfield. I think there were two different blockers with different specs. as I recall. No pops just a strong, clear and detailed sound from them. The kicker sub rounded it all out nicely.
 

Great...do you mind checking your crutchfield receipt to tell me which hz blockers? I will order those.
Thanks,
Colin
 

Here you go.... honestly I was impressed with the Audiofrogs. I was wooed about impedance issues but they just rock.

Crutchfield Bass Blockers​

Pair of inline frequency filters (300 Hz cut-off)

4.5 out of 5 stars(282) reviews for Crutchfield Bass Blockers
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$10.99
 

I looked at this set up too , but choose my local stereo shop AGAIN to install an Alpine with an amp . YES it makes a HUGE difference if you enjoy quality sound you can feel . It’s not audiophile quality but with the stock Bose systems we have in out trucks , it’s pretty amazing . I did the same this with my 2021 Silverado ….. I loved it
 

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