Sevenonfouroff
Member
For those that have it, is it worth getting? Make a difference?
200 watt kicker subwoofer
- Thread starter Sevenonfouroff
- Start date
Leo581
Well-known member
Here's a whole 10 page thread on it. The last couple pages sound like guys are happy with it since Kicker started including dip switches on the amp again.
www.at4forum.com
Decided on the GM Kicker sub
I've read what I can find on the forums and interwebz. Sounds like plenty of bass for a Bose system that has none. I was going to install, but for 100 bucks labor, GM will warranty it. My question is this. I've used bass control knobs in the past. What I don't understand is the true...
www.at4forum.com
sanny651
Active member
For the money that thing costs, I would roll with something else. I bought a Blaupunkt 8" powered sub off Amazon and installed it myself. $130 all in. You could go with a 10" version (Cerwin Vega, Infinity, etc.) and still come in at a fraction of the cost and it takes up less space. Just my opinion.
sanny651
Active member
I found installation to be easy. I removed the back of the back seat so I had access to the Bose amp. Then I tied into the subwoofer wires (they are there even if you don’t have a Bose sub) and ran those two a line out converter. I used the line out converter as the trigger for the amplifier. Then I just ran a power cable up to the battery. I grounded the amp to a bolt under the seat. All in it maybe took me two hours. If I had to do it again, it would probably take me 45 minutes now that I know what to do.
eightpilot
New member
Exactly. Much better options for $800
Are the subwoofer wires the yellow and yellow and black wires?
eightpilot
New member
On the Bose equipped trucks. Yes
john151ama
Well-known member
That is not entirely accurate. The yellow and yellow black are for the front right door speaker (6x9”) and front A pillar tweeter on the Bose equipped models. The factory kicker sub does instruct to tap those for installing the aftermarket OEM kicker sub. However the factory sub that is under the center console area is the factory installed sub and is fed by GN / BK (-) BU / GY (+). You will find those coming out of the factory Bose amp as well.
This is another reason why the aftermarket kicker sub kind of sucks. You run it off the front door speaker wires because the OEM sucks so bad the system reduces signal to it the more you turn the volume up to keep it from self destructing. So they have you tap the front door speakers because they don’t reduce signal as the volume is raised. But that is a full signal (including high level frequency) and doesn’t go down as far as most good subs would want (usually in the 40ish hz range). Getting a better sub with Digital signal processor amp or amp and separate DSP will allow you to provide the correct Hz to the sub, giving much better sound and performance.
Sperle
Member
Do you have any pictures of the install you can share?
If you want a simple setup for what the kicker cost get a JL audio power wedge plus. The 10” and 12” fit under the rear passenger side seat great. You won’t be disappointed by the performance.
All you need is a Kicker Keyloc. To steal signal from the any of the Bose speakers ( front right or Sub signal are best) and let it do its magic. I tried the Audiocontrol LC2I, JL audio loc-22, and wavetec- they all sucked compared to the Kicker Keyloc.
To add- the JL power wedge has quick connects to take it out for the space in 30 seconds. I take it out for both of my gun dogs to have room in the back.
PS- the Kicker Keyloc isn’t perfect (VS using a AmpPro or NavTV and DSP =$$$) but is the best(IMHO) LOC for Automatic Factory EQ correction.
All you need is a Kicker Keyloc. To steal signal from the any of the Bose speakers ( front right or Sub signal are best) and let it do its magic. I tried the Audiocontrol LC2I, JL audio loc-22, and wavetec- they all sucked compared to the Kicker Keyloc.
To add- the JL power wedge has quick connects to take it out for the space in 30 seconds. I take it out for both of my gun dogs to have room in the back.
PS- the Kicker Keyloc isn’t perfect (VS using a AmpPro or NavTV and DSP =$$$) but is the best(IMHO) LOC for Automatic Factory EQ correction.
Last edited:
john151ama
Well-known member
I built my own. 10” dual voice coil Kicker SoloBaric wired to 1 0hm load, running off a 500w Kicker amp with DSP. 8 channel JBL amp with DSP running 4 new door speakers and 4 new tweeters. Had to run new speaker wires to separate the door mids and tweeters so I can control those separately to tune correctly. Replaced the 3 dash speakers but left those on OEM amp as I wanted to blend them with the others for surround sound not the dash heavy “concert” sound they provide OEM.
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john151ama
Well-known member
Totally agree. The kicker amp with Keyloc on my sub worked perfectly.
black98z71
New member
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
black98z71
New member
Your schematic lists a pioneer 8 inch, but post and pic shows a Solo Baric. Change of plans?
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