Ultimate/at4x bose speakers

[Kbadger3]

Haha. I too priced the factory replacements out of curiosity. They’ve made the Bose Centerpoint a marketing point for sales - pretty laughable and not funny at the same time. I will say the sound deadening in all doors made a significant difference before any speaker replacements….I’d say a 5 fold improvement. (Deadened exterior door skin behind glass, interior door skin and door panel.

I’m assuming you mean bypass the Bose Amp Control Unit as oppose to replace it since it contains the control unit for infotainment and a host of other chips that control other functions?

I am using a HELIX 12 channel amp with built in DSP, a T-Harness, and ANC Bypass so all the chimes pass through properly. Reduces the need for the AXDSPX and reduces wiring, etc.

Will also be using a JL Stealthbox run with separate 800W Helix Amp.

When I first started the conversation - was told by this forum and Sounds Good and local shop I do not need to replace all 12 speakers which was my original goal. So 6 speakers (dash, a-pillars, rear doors) and the stealth box. Utilize the DSP to properly tune all speakers.

This is my first true auto audio upgrade in a long time beyond just speaker replacement…of the number of vehicles on hand, this thing is garbage ….so catching up on latest technologies and speakers. I thought w the hype of Bose Centepoint, wasn’t even thinking about it until I tried using it…coming from a 2017 Silverado that had superior sound system compared to this one.

Where did you go to get your t harness and anc bypass? I have a 24 I’m having a hard time finding an anc bypass for mine.

 

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[kobra357]

Crutchfield?

 

[john151ama]

Don’t need an ANC bypass for a 2024. Also don’t need a t harness either. You can cut speaker wire at the Bose amp and run that right in to a DSP then back to the speaker wire if using stock speaker wire to run OEM or new speakers. But I would recommend pulling new speaker wire anyway so you can run tweeters and door speakers on separate channels so you can tune them independently.

Sounds Good Stereo has the t harness if you want one though.

 

[Grayson]

I've been too busy but I need to follow up on the Nav TV or Pac GM71 for either an Audison M12.14 or Helix V 12 DSP amp if I think it's worth it to replace all the speakers and have individual control vs an 8 channel DSP amp. Subwoofer placement is really bugging me as I need as much storage in cab as possible.

 

[Kbadger3]

Thanks, I will have to go look at sounds good for their T Harness, I don’t know why I didn’t look there in the first place, I ordered their block off plates for the doors and the amp board for the back wall
I have also been told by my local shop that I don’t have ANC, but man something does happen at different times. Like opening a door can trigger something, a loud truck driving by can trigger something in the Bose and my bass rolls in super heavy. Heavy enough that I have to turn my bass knob all the way down, and go to the dash EQ and pull bass out there to in order to have a conversation.
Right now I’m tuning a Kicker KEYLOC tied into the front channels, going into a JL 500/1 and powering a 13TW5. It might be the keyloc playing around with the signal, but hard to say. I do know I have an extra mic in the headliner front center by the headliner console. I have an at4X and my buddy has an At4 and he doesn’t have that mic and I can’t find a call out on diagrams to tell what it does.

Here is a pic of the box I built though, it was my solution to have some storage. I’m running .8 sealed and left the passenger side open.

 

[john151ama]

Thanks, I will have to go look at sounds good for their T Harness, I don’t know why I didn’t look there in the first place, I ordered their block off plates for the doors and the amp board for the back wall
I have also been told by my local shop that I don’t have ANC, but man something does happen at different times. Like opening a door can trigger something, a loud truck driving by can trigger something in the Bose and my bass rolls in super heavy. Heavy enough that I have to turn my bass knob all the way down, and go to the dash EQ and pull bass out there to in order to have a conversation.
Right now I’m tuning a Kicker KEYLOC tied into the front channels, going into a JL 500/1 and powering a 13TW5. It might be the keyloc playing around with the signal, but hard to say. I do know I have an extra mic in the headliner front center by the headliner console. I have an at4X and my buddy has an At4 and he doesn’t have that mic and I can’t find a call out on diagrams to tell what it does.

Here is a pic of the box I built though, it was my solution to have some storage. I’m running .8 sealed and left the passenger side open.
View attachment 26519

Wow, awesome job on the custom box! That looks fantastic and better than most you could buy.

I have the AT4X as well with the middle mic up front and 12 speaker. No issues at all like you described.

I also have a kicker with keylock running my sub and have the front door speaker channel as the input.

May want to run the keylock program again. Sounds like it may not be working as intended.
If that doesn’t work you could also switch to the OEM sub channel, run keylock program again and see if that fixes it.

When I set up my kicker amp and sub I tried various inputs. I started with the rear speakers as input, but had very low output from the sub. Then did front channel as input and it worked great and produced expected output. Then I tried the OEM sub channel as input and that functioned identical to the front door speaker input. I then just for fun used the rear channel speaker output coming from my JBL amp (signal cleaned up through DSP) and that functioned perfect as well, not the reduced volume from the signal direct from the Bose amp.

I decided to stick with the front door speaker channel as the input as I thought it was great signal and did not need the clean up from the DSP first and thought that may be the safest route.

I have the jbl 8 channel amp with DSP on doors and tweeter and no issues there either like you described. Turn signals, chimes, and phone call music reduction all work as designed. Hope you find a solution

 

[Kbadger3]

Well that’s promising to hear and that’s a good point on trying to run the programming again on the kicker keyloc.
I originally tied into the sub channel and mine wouldn’t program. I called kicker and they said tie into the fronts, the keyloc had to see input on both channels to work properly.
Guess I know that I’m pulling the upper part of the rear seat tonight to get to that thing to try and reprogram it again.