Ultimate/at4x bose speakers

I did a lot to my Mercedes Benz soon after I purchased it, replaced 4 door speakers with Focal KRX2's component system, these are expensive with a each pair around 1200+ and rated at 100W RMS. Also in the Benz I have a 4 channel 4x150W RMS amp where I reduced output to match the speakers power however following years of use at high volumes, the woofers need repair. I am considering replacing them Focal ES 165 KX2E. It can get expensive replacing these since warranty is only one year however the crystal clear listening experience is worth it. I also intended to install a DSP however never got around to it. Now on my 2024 AT4X, the sound is 'ok' nothing special and I have not quite got around to a good listening experience in the six months I've owned this, perhaps I will soon and install a set of Focal component speakers in the door which is bound to enhance sound quality. The difference between ordinary and high end speakers is speaker sensitivity, what that means high end speakers need very little input to get the voice coil moving and then some. I need to pace my spending on this truck, don't have to but feel I should. I'm considering installing a Comeup winch, be handy when I take this truck to a rough trail somewhere and away from help.
 

I did a lot to my Mercedes Benz soon after I purchased it, replaced 4 door speakers with Focal KRX2's component system, these are expensive with an each pair around 1200+ and rated at 100W RMS. Also in the Benz I have a 4 channel 4x150W RMS amp where I reduced output to match the speakers power however following years of use at high volumes, the woofers need repair. I am considering replacing them Focal ES 165 KX2E. It can get expensive replacing these since warranty is only one year however the crystal clear listening experience is worth it. I also intended to install a DSP however never got around to it. Now on my 2024 AT4X, the sound is 'ok' nothing special and I have not quite got around to a good listening experience in the six months I've owned this, perhaps I will soon and install a set of Focal component speakers in the door which is bound to enhance sound quality. The difference between ordinary and high end speakers is speaker sensitivity, what that means high end speakers need very little input to get the voice coil moving and then some. I need to pace my spending on this truck, don't have to but feel I should. I'm considering installing a Comeup winch, be handy when I take this truck to a rough trail somewhere and away from help.
Would just replacing speakers still work with factory amp or would you have to replace that as well?
 

Would just replacing speakers still work with factory amp or would you have to replace that as well?
First step is speakers and that will make a huge difference. You could stop there if happy. If you now want more deafeaning sound volume, you should then invest in a four channel amp (only for door component speakers) of your choice to match speaker impedence; Focals are 2 Ohm hence you should purchase an amplifier that handles 2 Ohm speakers. That takes care of sound volume. Next you may or may not need more bass (remember something like the focal foor speakers will increase output for lower midrange), you can add the sub upgrade from GMC since it is designed for it. Lastly if youre still not happy with the sound, you can add a DSP (Digital Sound Processor) to manage frequency response for each set of frequencies. A good DSP may do a lot for you for overall output tuning. I did not install a DSP or an additional sub in my Benz.
 

My 2 cents. Have any of you pulled the Bose speakers out and looked at them? I have owned many GM vehicles with Bose speakers, unfortunately they have to be the lowest quality Bose speakers Bose makes. IMO junk. Replace them with any quality speakers and you will notice huge difference in sound quality. They would be #1 on my list before amps etc and then go up from there
 

Anyone know what size woofers/speakers are in door of the 2500HD? 6 1/2 round ot 6x9 or something else?
 

If you are set on focal and they have 6.5” you like you can get an adapter to go down from the 6x9” in the front doors to a 6.5”. Just a ring that tapers down the hole size. You could do the same with UHMW or MDF if you wanted to make your own. Just another option for you.
 

I'm a pretty new 2024 2500 HD AT4X owner here, and I'm really disappointed in the audio system in my truck. The Kicker tailgate system is awful (it is what it is), but the cab system is lacking to say the least. The stock audio system in my 2019 Silverado LTZ was significantly better than my new truck. I'm trying to decide if I just deal with it or get some work done. Disappointing either way.
 

I'm a pretty new 2024 2500 HD AT4X owner here, and I'm really disappointed in the audio system in my truck. The Kicker tailgate system is awful (it is what it is), but the cab system is lacking to say the least. The stock audio system in my 2019 Silverado LTZ was significantly better than my new truck. I'm trying to decide if I just deal with it or get some work done. Disappointing either way.
Check out my sound system build for some details that may help you decide how to proceed.

You can replace speakers and it can help a bit but it will not solve the real issues. Bose sends way too much sound to the front dash mid speakers (centerpoint). They are small mid range and do not give a good full cab filling surround sound many of us prefer.

The Bose signal to the rear doors is almost non existent. Stock speakers are 3 ohm. I replaced with infinity 2.7 ohm and 92 db sensitivity speakers, those are really good specs for a speaker that can produce good sound with low power needed. You can buy $1,000 speakers down to 2 ohm but that 2 vs 2.7 ohm difference is pretty negligible to what you would hear.

Swapping dash and front door speakers will help some, but waste of money for rear door. Signal is just not there.

That leaves you with getting a digital sound processor and amp, or amp with DSP to correct the input signals to give you a full signal to all speakers you can tune appropriately.

Good news is you can do this pretty cheap. About 300 for speakers in my case and around $250 for the JBL 8 channel amp with DSP. Now you have a good signal, with way more power to each speaker which are better quality.

That takes you to bass. If you want more then you need a sub. You can do the factory kicker option, but I feel that is over priced for what it is.

A simple 8” or 10” sub designed for a small box, in the enclosure of your choice along with an amp will take care of the bass side of things. I used a kicker amp that puts out 500w at 1 ohm ( probably 3 time more than the factory aftermarket option) and it corrects the drop off of bass frequency the factory system does. Bose set up cuts down bass the higher you turn up the volume to prevent the crappy speakers from falling apart. You need an amp that corrects that drop off from the factory input signal. The kicker amps with Key running do that.

I used my 8” sub box from my old 2007 F150, put in a pioneer dual voice coil sub and packed the box with Polly fill. I added a bass knob to the dash so I can turn the sub up and down to match what I am listening to.

So that was about $150 for the sub and about $200 for the amp, box I already had but you could make one yourself that would only take up 50% of back under seat storage area. So bass for $350 plus box vs factory option which is about $1000.

My bass shakes the whole truck, side mirrors and will vibrate the rear view to the point I can see out of it. I never turn it up past 50%. You will not get that kind of power out of the factory version, but it will add bass for sure.

No right or wrong way to do it, just got to decide what you want to take on yourself, how much you want to spend, and how much better do you really want it.

I like to do things myself, with the best result possible, at a price lower than off the shelf solutions so that impacts my choices.
 

Check out my sound system build for some details that may help you decide how to proceed.

You can replace speakers and it can help a bit but it will not solve the real issues. Bose sends way too much sound to the front dash mid speakers (centerpoint). They are small mid range and do not give a good full cab filling surround sound many of us prefer.

The Bose signal to the rear doors is almost non existent. Stock speakers are 3 ohm. I replaced with infinity 2.7 ohm and 92 db sensitivity speakers, those are really good specs for a speaker that can produce good sound with low power needed. You can buy $1,000 speakers down to 2 ohm but that 2 vs 2.7 ohm difference is pretty negligible to what you would hear.

Swapping dash and front door speakers will help some, but waste of money for rear door. Signal is just not there.

That leaves you with getting a digital sound processor and amp, or amp with DSP to correct the input signals to give you a full signal to all speakers you can tune appropriately.

Good news is you can do this pretty cheap. About 300 for speakers in my case and around $250 for the JBL 8 channel amp with DSP. Now you have a good signal, with way more power to each speaker which are better quality.

That takes you to bass. If you want more then you need a sub. You can do the factory kicker option, but I feel that is over priced for what it is.

A simple 8” or 10” sub designed for a small box, in the enclosure of your choice along with an amp will take care of the bass side of things. I used a kicker amp that puts out 500w at 1 ohm ( probably 3 time more than the factory aftermarket option) and it corrects the drop off of bass frequency the factory system does. Bose set up cuts down bass the higher you turn up the volume to prevent the crappy speakers from falling apart. You need an amp that corrects that drop off from the factory input signal. The kicker amps with Key running do that.

I used my 8” sub box from my old 2007 F150, put in a pioneer dual voice coil sub and packed the box with Polly fill. I added a bass knob to the dash so I can turn the sub up and down to match what I am listening to.

So that was about $150 for the sub and about $200 for the amp, box I already had but you could make one yourself that would only take up 50% of back under seat storage area. So bass for $350 plus box vs factory option which is about $1000.

My bass shakes the whole truck, side mirrors and will vibrate the rear view to the point I can see out of it. I never turn it up past 50%. You will not get that kind of power out of the factory version, but it will add bass for sure.

No right or wrong way to do it, just got to decide what you want to take on yourself, how much you want to spend, and how much better do you really want it.

I like to do things myself, with the best result possible, at a price lower than off the shelf solutions so that impacts my choices.
Hey man. I know jack shit about audio. I have the GM Kicker sub. Is there any way of salvaging this unit? Will a DSP or swapping out the amp help?
 

Bose sends way too much sound to the front dash mid speakers (centerpoint). They are small mid range and do not give a good full cab filling surround sound many of us prefer.

The Bose signal to the rear doors is almost non existent.
I do not experience this in my 2024 2550HD ATX AEV Edition. I'll have to check to confirm this with my sound meter, a very useful tool. Sound clarity and sound stage in my GMC no doubt don't compare to my focals KRX2's in my Benz, driven by my 4 channel Rockford Fosgate 4x150W (RMS) Class A/B amp, T600-4 tuned down to around 4X120W (RMS) with a line level converter, basically set overall sound output to 123db at center console, extremely deafening sound level, not recommended for sure :). I installed in my Benz close to the OEM amp in the trunk behind the left panel where there was enough space; none of this is visible in the trunk.
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