Putco LED Tailgate Light Bar

If a person doesn't want to listen to @Ohiost90 and I about using just a paper clip, you can use boosts instructions and use a just a diode and shrink wrap to get the same results. Where boost has a blue ring for reference, the same gray ring on diode would be the direction to follow.

View attachment 3291I made up another adapter, for a photo shoot, to replace boosts wire tap.

View attachment 3292
I am trying to listen to you two. I am just trying to "see" visually what you all are doing. Are you just using a paper clip to jump the two places or are you using a paper clips plus the wire thing from boost auto?
 

I'm sorry I think faster than I can type.

If you would make two of these side taps...
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And substitute for the wire taps boost supplies...

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and follow boosts instructions, it would be the same. But instead of piercing the insulation of the wire using boosts wire taps, you would insert "my" side tap into the backside of the bcm connector where the instructions say and then plug boosts diode into the side taps...

Screenshot_20230313_151630_Samsung Internet.webp
 

Or you could get a dozen of these diodes for a couple of dollars. You only need 1 for this mod...

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I would use some heat shrink tube on the un-insulated legs of the diode, except for the last 1/2" or so on each end. Soory for the ugly heat shinking editing...

Screenshot_20230313_152714_Gallery.jpg


Then follow boosts instructions for the bcm connector pin slots and orientation of the blue colored band of their diode and just side tap into the bcm connector... Side tapping means to shove a pin/leg/paper clip into the bcm connector next to the existing wire.

ETA... the legs of the diodes from amazon bend real easy, like solder on a spool, so you can insert and bend it over to the other connector.
 

Or you could get a dozen of these diodes for a couple of dollars. You only need 1 for this mod...

View attachment 3296

I would use some heat shrink tube on the un-insulated legs of the diode, except for the last 1/2" or so on each end. Soory for the ugly heat shinking editing...

View attachment 3297

Then follow boosts instructions for the bcm connector pin slots and orientation of the blue colored band of their diode and just side tap into the bcm connector... Side tapping means to shove a pin/leg/paper clip into the bcm connector next to the existing wire.

ETA... the legs of the diodes from amazon bend real easy, like solder on a spool, so you can insert and bend it over to the other connector.
The blue side of the boost auto's thing is the grey side of the diode correct
 

Just got this on my rig. It was more difficult than I thought, but that is my fault for tackling the tailgate alone. I was able to shove the seemingly 35 extra feet of harness inside the tube of my hitch then zip-tied it all nice and secure. Will get picks at some point. My first impression is that it looks cool but not sure how much light it is throwing down on the payment in reverse. The turns and the hazards look great.
 

Just got this on my rig. It was more difficult than I thought, but that is my fault for tackling the tailgate alone. I was able to shove the seemingly 35 extra feet of harness inside the tube of my hitch then zip-tied it all nice and secure. Will get picks at some point. My first impression is that it looks cool but not sure how much light it is throwing down on the payment in reverse. The turns and the hazards look great.
I doubt it will show light on the pavement. Just looking at how much it lights up behind.
 

I doubt it will show light on the pavement. Just looking at how much it lights up behind.
You are correct. It doesn't really help when backing up to a hitch, unless you want to see the jack.

It will help when backing up to a steel post fence, a gray combine (gleaner) or a field entrance, aka a driveway with steep ditchs on either side.

Best way to describe it would be if you only used your rear view mirror to backup, not the rear view camera.
 

You are correct. It doesn't really help when backing up to a hitch, unless you want to see the jack.

It will help when backing up to a steel post fence, a gray combine (gleaner) or a field entrance, aka a driveway with steep ditchs on either side.

Best way to describe it would be if you only used your rear view mirror to backup, not the rear view camera.
That is what I am looking for exactly. I have to use my side rearview mirrors to line me up perfect and using the cameras doesn't do it.
 

Yes, don't want to get flamed so keep this on the lowdown. My 21 1500 Denali. Hard to get a night shot, but it definitely helps...

View attachment 3276


View attachment 3277
Does this plug into the tail lights? I don’t want to use the trailer plug as I don’t want the truck acting like it has a trailer connected at all times.

How difficult was the install?
 

Does this plug into the tail lights? I don’t want to use the trailer plug as I don’t want the truck acting like it has a trailer connected at all times.

How difficult was the install?
Tee's into taillights. Removing tailgate by myself was hard.
 

I like that Putco light bar for the rear. Unfortunately, GMC says it won't fit my 2024. Any thoughts on that guys? Dimensions look the same between a 2023 3500HD and a 2024. Wiring issues perhaps?
 

don't you have camera's on your truck to use when backing up at night? not sure how you can have problems with that.
The LED reverse lights output about 50% less light that the incandescent 921 bulbs used to on my old Denail.
There is a noticeable difference on the reverse camera, when backing out of my driveway in the dark.
 

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