Kicker speaker issue

yes. no bass and sounds like a 1930's mic. Maybe the soundtrack to O' Brother Where Art Thou would sound fitting on this system. Curious if anyone has swapped out the speakers or found a way to beef up the system.
There are several build posts on here about kicker system upgrades. The amp is good, but speakers suck and the tailgate is a tin can. I lined the inside of the tailgate with rubber sound deadening sheets, and replaced the speakers with Polk Audio. Marine grade speakers that sound much better and give some bass as well.

 

Yes. No bass and sounds like a 1930's mic. Maybe the soundtrack to O' Brother Where Art Thou would sound fitting on this system. Curious if anyone has swapped out the speakers or found a way to beef up the system.
Here are photos of the replaced speakers
 

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It’s the cheap tilt switch in the tailgate. If you want it to work the same. A $10 bilge pump float switch from Walmart is a lot more reliable and weather proof.
 

I’ve noticed my kicker tailgate speaker has been turning on while the tailgate is up here recently. My phone had been connecting to it while driving down the road.
I’m guessing the auto sensing switch in it is bad.
Anyone had this issue? Thinking of just cutting the power wire in it and hooking up a power switch just so it doesn’t turn on and I don’t know it and drain my battery.
Turn off its (tailgat unit) Bluetooth. Step it into aux and the problem goes away.
 

Mine was out of warranty. I bought it from a dealer aftermarket and it only has a 1 year warranty. Missed it by a month.

It’s a really easy fix. Just unscrew 6 bolts. Cut the yellow wire going to the amp. Add a $8 switch from autozone and it’s fixed. Took about 30 mins.
I have this same problem. Do you remember what switch you put in. Was it a normal 2 wire 20amp or 25amp switch?
 

The power line feeding the kicker coming from the 7 way under the truck has a 10amp fuse in it. Just FYI.
Thanks. Do you recommend just pulling that fuse when not in use or putting a switch on the yellow cable feeding the amp? This issue with the speakers coming on when the tailgate is closed has drained batteries multiple times on mine.
 

Thanks. Do you recommend just pulling that fuse when not in use or putting a switch on the yellow cable feeding the amp? This issue with the speakers coming on when the tailgate is closed has drained batteries multiple times on mine.
Pulling the fuse would be kind of a PITA crawling under it each time you wanted to use it. To me a switch is the easiest solution, but a better float switch would solve the issue and be automatic if you want that.

Clipping the yellow and blue wire off the current tilt switch and running those to a power switch is super easy and cheap and you will not have to worry about it again. Don’t use a toggle though. Make sure you do a flat low profile type. With the kicker panel the fold up step contacts it when closed so you can’t have anything protruding past the face of the main plastic cover.

After I replaced the speakers and did the push button power switch I have continued to have intermittent connection issues with the kicker. It been happening since brand new, the phone will connect but just not play at times. Then randomly it will work again. Even when blue tooth is connected or I plug directly in to aux input. Others have had the same issue. I think the whole thing is junk.

I recently stripped out the whole kicker system and put in a Pyle. It has 75 watts for 2 channels and works perfect. Way better sound through my upgraded speakers and never a connection issue. I am going to post that as some point.

I cut out the molded pockets, put flat panels in where the pockets were put in the new radio (used my same push button power switch) and put new lights in the tailgate. Love it now, works correctly, much higher volume and better sound.
 

Here’s a photo of where I ended up. Just sharing because if you actually want to use the system and are going to open it up to put in a switch the connection issues may be your next problem. You can get the Pyle off Amazon for $60 and fix it once and be done. I ran a additional power feed from my battery to my new 12v panel on the left side, usb c, usb A, 12v power supplies now in there now.

The toggle that came with the 12v plugs hit my step and I have replaced that with a push button same as next to the radio. I can turn the radio or 12v panel on independently.
 

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I haven't used my speakers in a while, probably like a year. Went to use them two weeks ago at the beach and no power. Figured maybe the carwash had jacked them up. Fuse was blown. Changed it and it kept blowing. Finally took it apart and found that where the power wire runs from the harness through the bumper/tailgate had worn through the wire casing and split the power wire causing it to short out.
Just something to look for if yours stops working in the future. FYI, I had never touched anything in this area before today. All the factory zips were still in place.
 

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