Barbersboy
Active member
Update to the update...Second dealer kept it overnight and said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Guess I will just drive it and keep my jump box handy?
Totally get the frustration but it happens. My 2021 BMW GSA 1250 battery was weak in 5-6m. Replaced under warranty, couple months later after a 2 week off road trip in Colorado. Two days in the trailer to TN, it was too weak to start again. BMW of Nashville told me it had to be on a maintainer when I wasn’t ridding it. GTFOHTruck battery died on Sunday at the Vikings game. AAA jumped me and I was able to drive 6 hours home. Monday it started right up and went to work. Tuesday morning dead again so I went down to Interstate and bought a $350 AGM, cussed alot, then cussed even more when I went to replace it because I snapped off the negative battery sensor trying to get the dang thing out. Anyways, it ran fine after the replacement only to have it dead again today.....Had to buy a jump box because it was stuffed in my tiny garage so I am currently $700 in the hole with the battery, sensor and jump box. Its currently at the dealer. Anyone have this issue with the battery dying like this?
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the dealer informed me that I am 100 miles over my warranty so this won't be covered. I love this truck but It's like I keep getting kicked in the balls lately.
The BCM criteria controls the load shedding of the electrical power management.I'm not saying your guy isn't knowledgeable, but the alternator is controlled by the ecm, not a voltage regulator. JFYI
Yeah, the SUVs will kill a battery real fast with the remote in or near it. The foot activated liftgate module and sensors stay powered up scanning for instant opening. Over 10amps of constant draw.This is true. The fob excites the ecm to make sure things are ready to start meaning the truck is awake and waiting.
That very well could be your drain, but the dealer should have "seen" that.Latest update is the truck died again yesterday. Jumped it to get to work and called the dealer. It died again and I jumped it to get it to the dealer. But something great happened on Saturday while I was out and about with it. The tailgate opened on its own. Had the dealer check the switch and we may have found the culprit as the connections were corroded. He's replacing the switch and I should have it back this afternoon. Fingers crossed we'll see.
Agreed. They should have at least checked that even if it passed draw tests (three tests total) given the amount of problems they have had with those switches.That very well could be your drain, but the dealer should have "seen" that.
Keyword...should have. That button has power to it all the time, just waiting to be pushed! Some dealers have good and bad parts throwers. Not many with mechanics...
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Ive had good luck with Walmart batteries too use them in my boat for the trolling motors & solar charger for boat lift get 5 -6 yrs out of themDon't compromise on your car battery! Get the best one possible. With my truck, after a failed OTA update, my dealer replaced both batteries under warranty which was a great delight to me.
For my Mercedes, I used to go to the dealer to replace its battery, I did that twice, first after almost seven years and the second time after another five years; OEM batteries only have a limited warranty. The third time I went to my local Walmart super store who had the best range of batteries; their battery has a three year warranty and was the best. I'll go back to Walmart for all my future battery needs unless I can get something better anywhere.
Did the new switch fix the problemAgreed. They should have at least checked that even if it passed draw tests (three tests total) given the amount of problems they have had with those switches.
Did the new switch fix the problem
Im going thru same thing multiple draw tests all good but battery going down in charge every day after 3 days dead have to boost
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AGMs do tend to be a bit more. We recently put a new AGM in our '18 Tahoe PPV. It was a beeg mofo and was nearly $300. We do AGM because I have a HATE for flooded-acid batteries.The babymax uses a H8 agm battery. Maybe agm batteries are more?
I got a new battery 3 weeks ago and just pulled in my garage and the whole thing shut down. Dead dead. No lights when I open the door. Can't even lock the doors w the fob. Just happened about :30 ago so no idea what i'm doing about it yet. I can't even open the hood because there is a cabinet over it.Truck battery died on Sunday at the Vikings game. AAA jumped me and I was able to drive 6 hours home. Monday it started right up and went to work. Tuesday morning dead again so I went down to Interstate and bought a $350 AGM, cussed alot, then cussed even more when I went to replace it because I snapped off the negative battery sensor trying to get the dang thing out. Anyways, it ran fine after the replacement only to have it dead again today.....Had to buy a jump box because it was stuffed in my tiny garage so I am currently $700 in the hole with the battery, sensor and jump box. Its currently at the dealer. Anyone have this issue with the battery dying like this?
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the dealer informed me that I am 100 miles over my warranty so this won't be covered. I love this truck but It's like I keep getting kicked in the balls lately.
Thanks for that. When I called the dealership they seemed to have no idea. I have a friend coming to my house. We will have to push it out a little to get the hood and see if we can figure it out or at lease get it started to get it repaired under warrantyThis spells it out quite clearly.
GM Bulletin PIT5689M: No Restart After Auto Stop, No Crank, Dead Battery — Check This Passenger-Side Firewall Ground
GM bulletin PIT5689M addresses no-restart after Auto Stop, intermittent no-crank, dead battery, glow plug faults, transfer case errors, and multiple warning lights on Silverado and Sierra trucks. The root cause is often a loose or damaged engine-to-body ground at the passenger-side firewall...www.duramaxnews.com