Dead Battery. Like Really Dead Battery.

Update: had the parasitic draw test done today and have documentation to show the dealer that it is not the amplifier, the battery is perfect, and there is no parasitic draw whatsoever. The test did reveal there is charging issues but I’m sure the dealer will fight me on the fact I have an aftermarket amplifier and say it caused the alternator damage.
 

Update: had the parasitic draw test done today and have documentation to show the dealer that it is not the amplifier, the battery is perfect, and there is no parasitic draw whatsoever. The test did reveal there is charging issues but I’m sure the dealer will fight me on the fact I have an aftermarket amplifier and say it caused the alternator damage.
I'm not saying your guy isn't knowledgeable, but the alternator is controlled by the ecm, not a voltage regulator. JFYI
 

I'm not saying your guy isn't knowledgeable, but the alternator is controlled by the ecm, not a voltage regulator. JFYI
Yes that is what he said. He couldn’t tell me if it was an ecm issue or alternator issue and that’s something a mechanic would have to determine. He was able to eliminate draw and potential of a bad battery. He is very knowledgeable with electrical in vehicles.
 

I have a 24' AT4 that just had a battery replaced at 24k miles under warranty. The truck started throwing codes for service transmission, service abs, service traction control etc. It was in the shop for the 6.2 recall test at the same time. They pulled the codes, ran tests on the alternator and battery to see if there was any draw and the battery turned out to be bad so they replaced it.
My voltage was jumping all over the place for a few months, and now that the battery has been changed its much more consistent and no codes.
 

I have a 24' AT4 that just had a battery replaced at 24k miles under warranty. The truck started throwing codes for service transmission, service abs, service traction control etc. It was in the shop for the 6.2 recall test at the same time. They pulled the codes, ran tests on the alternator and battery to see if there was any draw and the battery turned out to be bad so they replaced it.
My voltage was jumping all over the place for a few months, and now that the battery has been changed its much more consistent and no codes.
I’m glad for you that’s all it was. I hope I can figure mine out. Until then I will just have to keep having to trickle charging it every night in my garage…..
 

Truck battery died on Sunday at the Vikings game. AAA jumped me and I was able to drive 6 hours home. Monday it started right up and went to work. Tuesday morning dead again so I went down to Interstate and bought a $350 AGM, cussed alot, then cussed even more when I went to replace it because I snapped off the negative battery sensor trying to get the dang thing out. Anyways, it ran fine after the replacement only to have it dead again today.....Had to buy a jump box because it was stuffed in my tiny garage so I am currently $700 in the hole with the battery, sensor and jump box. Its currently at the dealer. Anyone have this issue with the battery dying like this?

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the dealer informed me that I am 100 miles over my warranty so this won't be covered. I love this truck but It's like I keep getting kicked in the balls lately.
I had this same problem about three months ago, first I went the route of getting a new battery. 3 days later it was dead. Took it to dealer and after running tests they said if it’s going to sit more then a week put on a charger. So I knew that still was not right. Then I talked to a guy at work and he said make sure keys are out of it because if not the computer will sit and think someone is going to try and start it so it drains the battery that way. Sounds weird but I did that and has not been dead sense.
 

I had this same problem about three months ago, first I went the route of getting a new battery. 3 days later it was dead. Took it to dealer and after running tests they said if it’s going to sit more then a week put on a charger. So I knew that still was not right. Then I talked to a guy at work and he said make sure keys are out of it because if not the computer will sit and think someone is going to try and start it so it drains the battery that way. Sounds weird but I did that and has not been dead sense.
Thats interesting; I'm going to check the ambient draw with and without the key being in it although I never leave the key in there,
 

I had this same problem about three months ago, first I went the route of getting a new battery. 3 days later it was dead. Took it to dealer and after running tests they said if it’s going to sit more then a week put on a charger. So I knew that still was not right. Then I talked to a guy at work and he said make sure keys are out of it because if not the computer will sit and think someone is going to try and start it so it drains the battery that way. Sounds weird but I did that and has not been dead sense.
This is true. The fob excites the ecm to make sure things are ready to start meaning the truck is awake and waiting.
 

Back
Top