35" Tires?

[Cocoabean]

Been looking at getting 35x12.50's on 18x9 +12mm wheels. Talked to a shop about installing the ReadyLift 2" SST Level kit (the one that changes the rear block out to a 3") and Bilstein 5100's. Told them what combo I wanted to run. He didn't seem to think it would fit. I currently have 275/65/20R (34.1x10.8) on stock with no trim or rub.

Did you have to do a lot of trimming? Wheel spacers to clear the UCA's?

Anyone else running 35's on just a level kit?

Your setup would be little different than mine, so let me point out the differences and how I think it will affect your desired fitment:

• You will have the potential additional lift space from the Bilstein 5100's. This will give you more lift than the stock Rancho's. This means you will need less trimming than I have.
  • I deleted the mudflap bracket in order to pin the mudflap back and light trimming of the mudflap itself. You may not need to do the delete or trimming.
• You want a +12 offset and I have a -0 offset
  • You will be 12mm (0.47 inches) closer to the UCA. You may be able to squeeze this in, but it will definitely be close. It clears fine at -0 offset. You may be able to run a 6mm spacer if needed if you are committed to the +12 offset
  • Since your offset will be +12mm, you will need to do less trimming than I did.

I would be more concerned with the spacing to the UCA than the mudflap trimming as it was minimal. Since I didn't run +12mm offset, I can't confidently say if it will fit or not.

 

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[Bryan N]

So all the information I have found says that we need an additional level or lift on top of the "factory" 2" lift to run 35" tires? Plus depending on the offset of the wheels we may need a mudflap delete kit and still do some grinding/cutting? I am only planning to run 20x9 wheels with 0mm offset. I didn't really want to add more lift as I am short and like the stock height. I definitely didn't want to have to cut anything.

I’m running 35’s with a 2” leveling kit, no rub no trimming, stock wheels.

 

[20AT421]

Your setup would be little different than mine, so let me point out the differences and how I think it will affect your desired fitment:

• You will have the potential additional lift space from the Bilstein 5100's. This will give you more lift than the stock Rancho's. This means you will need less trimming than I have.
  • I deleted the mudflap bracket in order to pin the mudflap back and light trimming of the mudflap itself. You may not need to do the delete or trimming.
• You want a +12 offset and I have a -0 offset
  • You will be 12mm (0.47 inches) closer to the UCA. You may be able to squeeze this in, but it will definitely be close. It clears fine at -0 offset. You may be able to run a 6mm spacer if needed if you are committed to the +12 offset
  • Since your offset will be +12mm, you will need to do less trimming than I did.

I would be more concerned with the spacing to the UCA than the mudflap trimming as it was minimal. Since I didn't run +12mm offset, I can't confidently say if it will fit or not.

There is added lift from the 5100s, but I don't plan to utilize the adjust on the front since I want to maintain around 3/4" rake. I often have payload and don't want to be nose high.
The wheels do ship with 3/8" spacers, not sure how much help that would be. The wheel also comes in a -12mm. That would help with UCA clearance, but as you said would require more trimming. And I don't want a lot of tire poke... I like the paint on the sides of the truck the way it is.
Another option would be the same wheel in a 20". I like the look of 18s better, more rubber, but would the 20x9 +12mm allow more clearance?

 

[Cocoabean]

There is added lift from the 5100s, but I don't plan to utilize the adjust on the front since I want to maintain around 3/4" rake. I often have payload and don't want to be nose high.
The wheels do ship with 3/8" spacers, not sure how much help that would be. The wheel also comes in a -12mm. That would help with UCA clearance, but as you said would require more trimming. And I don't want a lot of tire poke... I like the paint on the sides of the truck the way it is.
Another option would be the same wheel in a 20". I like the look of 18s better, more rubber, but would the 20x9 +12mm allow more clearance?

I wouldn't go with a 20x9 if the offset is still +12mm. If you are going to go to a wheel size you don't want, you should get the offset you do want. A -0 offset gives a good flush look without any poke or rock slinging issues. You may not have that option with your wheels though.

 

[Agent 409]

I’m running 35’s with a 2” leveling kit, no rub no trimming, stock wheels.

Looks great! What is your exact tire make, model and spec?

 

[20AT421]

Does anyone know the offset of the factory 20" wheels? It would help me visualize how much poke I might get from different offsets of aftermarket wheels.

 

[20AT421]

I wouldn't go with a 20x9 if the offset is still +12mm. If you are going to go to a wheel size you don't want, you should get the offset you do want. A -0 offset gives a good flush look without any poke or rock slinging issues. You may not have that option with your wheels though.

Yeah, they (Black Rhino Warlords) only come in a +12 or -12 for my bolt pattern. If I were to use the 3/8" (9mm) spacers that would technically make them +3 offset, right? If that were the case could I use a 1/2" spacer and get back to a 0 offset. Or am I not looking at that correctly?


Wish there was a wheel/tire shop that had multiple combos on hand for mockups to see what would work. It'd have to be someone wealthy owning it but sure would be helpful!

 

[Bryan N]

Looks great! What is your exact tire make, model and spec?

35x11.50r20Recon Grapplers by Nitto

 

[Cocoabean]

Yeah, they (Black Rhino Warlords) only come in a +12 or -12 for my bolt pattern. If I were to use the 3/8" (9mm) spacers that would technically make them +3 offset, right? If that were the case could I use a 1/2" spacer and get back to a 0 offset. Or am I not looking at that correctly?


Wish there was a wheel/tire shop that had multiple combos on hand for mockups to see what would work. It'd have to be someone wealthy owning it but sure would be helpful!

To answer your other post, I believe the stock wheels are +28 offset.

Your math is correct on the spacers but the issue you’ll run into when running spacers over 6mm is that you’ll limit the threads available for the lug nuts and compromise the strength and integrity of the studs.

 

[Agent 409]

35x11.50r20Recon Grapplers by Nitto

Cool to see you are running that with no issues!

You don’t have any rubbing at full steering wheel crank?

• Inflated Dimensions - Overall Dia (in):34.53
• Inflated Dimensions - Overall Width (in):11.42

 

[20AT421]

To answer your other post, I believe the stock wheels are +28 offset.

Your math is correct on the spacers but the issue you’ll run into when running spacers over 6mm is that you’ll limit the threads available for the lug nuts and compromise the strength and integrity of the studs.

So I'd have to replace the studs with longer ones... more headache. May be time to give up on the first choice and starting looking for different wheels.

*Edit: Crazy to think that with a +12 I'd have UCA issues when it'd still be moving the wheel out 14mm. But that's why I ask cause what should work in my head and what really works are vastly different.

 

[Cocoabean]

So I'd have to replace the studs with longer ones... more headache. May be time to give up on the first choice and starting looking for different wheels.

*Edit: Crazy to think that with a +12 I'd have UCA issues when it'd still be moving the wheel out 14mm. But that's why I ask cause what should work in my head and what really works are vastly different.

If you run the 35x11.5 tires you would be fine in the +12 offset. It’s the extra width of then 35x12.5 that I’m unsure about. Again, you can run a 6mm spacer safely, but I would go over that without longer studs. That’s just my opinion though.

 

[20AT421]

Some rough math to figure what the poke would be...
Factory offset around +28. Changing to the -12 offset rims would be a difference of 40mm, or about 1.5" out from hub. Current tires are 275 and changing to a 12.50 is about 42.5mm wider, about 1-3/4", half of which (7/8") would count towards outside poke. So 12.50's on a -12mm offset would have the tires poking out about 2-3/8" more than where current tires are. On the flip side, it should have the 12.50 clearing the UCA by slightly more than the current setup. (Tire 23mm wider inside, but wheel pushed out from hub 40mm more than factory would mean an extra 17mm of clearance.)

Is this even close to making sense or am I way off?

 

[Cocoabean]

Some rough math to figure what the poke would be...
Factory offset around +28. Changing to the -12 offset rims would be a difference of 40mm, or about 1.5" out from hub. Current tires are 275 and changing to a 12.50 is about 42.5mm wider, about 1-3/4", half of which (7/8") would count towards outside poke. So 12.50's on a -12mm offset would have the tires poking out about 2-3/8" more than where current tires are. On the flip side, it should have the 12.50 clearing the UCA by slightly more than the current setup. (Tire 23mm wider inside, but wheel pushed out from hub 40mm more than factory would mean an extra 17mm of clearance.)

Is this even close to making sense or am I way off?

yea, the back of the napkin math looks right to me. -12mm will cause rubbing on the mudflaps, so be ready for trimming and modding.

 

[20AT421]

yea, the back of the napkin math looks right to me. -12mm will cause rubbing on the mudflaps, so be ready for trimming and modding.

As long as I'm on the right track. Helps with figuring what may work while looking for a combo I like.