2026 OEM speaker replacement

[nabatron]

Speakers come with different Ohm or resistance ratings. 4 is the most common, 3 is less common. Bose uses 3 ohm because they have lower resistance and can get a little more sound out of the same watts. So the ones I referenced are 3 ohm to match the factory system. If you use higher ohm speakers they will sound quieter than the others.

Yes I replaced the dash “mid range” as well (not tweeters). All 3 are 2 3/4”. I used AudioControl PNW-275 for those. They are 3 ohm as well.

I have a 24’ at4 and want to add the at4x A pillar to add another 2 tweeters. Would adding the 2 extra tweeters in the A pillars have a better sound?

 

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[john151ama]

what do you mean by adding another 2?

You have mids in the dash x3. I believe you have a 2 way 6x9 in front doors and 6.5” 2 way in the rear doors. That is a woofer with the tweeter in the center.

You would not want to add the A pillar tweeters on top of the door set up. You don’t have extra channels on the OEM, and tying a a pillar tweeters into the existing door signal in no good.

You have I full signal going to your doors. Replace the door with a component set up that comes with a tweeter. Put the new 6x9 woofer in the door then run the line up to your new a pillar tweeter using the cross over components usually provide or the blocker they give you for the tweeter. That will send the right frequency to the tweeter and the woofer. Advantage is much better speakers with more punch and also much better vocals and high level even at a high volume. The A pillar tweeters are at head level on purpose. They raise the sound stage to the listening level and will provide a more full sound in the cab. Getting tweeter at ear level and pointed at you is what makes them sound great.

 

[nabatron]

what do you mean by adding another 2?

You have mids in the dash x3. I believe you have a 2 way 6x9 in front doors and 6.5” 2 way in the rear doors. That is a woofer with the tweeter in the center.

You would not want to add the A pillar tweeters on top of the door set up. You don’t have extra channels on the OEM, and tying a a pillar tweeters into the existing door signal in no good.

You have I full signal going to your doors. Replace the door with a component set up that comes with a tweeter. Put the new 6x9 woofer in the door then run the line up to your new a pillar tweeter using the cross over components usually provide or the blocker they give you for the tweeter. That will send the right frequency to the tweeter and the woofer. Advantage is much better speakers with more punch and also much better vocals and high level even at a high volume. The A pillar tweeters are at head level on purpose. They raise the sound stage to the listening level and will provide a more full sound in the cab. Getting tweeter at ear level and pointed at you is what makes them sound great.

Man you know a lot about speakers lol…isn’t there 2 tweeters in the top of the dash on each side? I think I’m going to need to get a person who knows about wiring and speaker set up to do mine since I am a major noob with all of this

 

[john151ama]

Man you know a lot about speakers lol…isn’t there 2 tweeters in the top of the dash on each side? I think I’m going to need to get a person who knows about wiring and speaker set up to do mine since I am a major noob with all of this

I mentioned the 3 dash speakers above. They are 2 3/4” mid range. They also play the data circuit, so they play your hands free sounds, Siri, nav, turn signal auto generated tone etc. They are more of a mid range and don’t go up to the high frequencies of a typical tweeter.

Wiring is not difficult on the doors and if you add A pillars, I am sure you can do it. You’re just running 1 +- wire pair up from the door sill kick panel area up to the A pillar. Drop a wire down from the dash top down the side of the dash and it will come out by the floor, much easier than trying to fish it up.

 

[nabatron]

I have those pillars. Ill wire them up this week and let you know. I bought the an and b pillars for the leather wrapped grab handles.

Any updates my dude?

 

[ivey_usmc]

Any updates my dude?

Im having trouble running wire threw the wire bundle that goes through the door jamb. Going to buy wire with thinner coating and see if that will work.

 

[john151ama]

Im having trouble running wire threw the wire bundle that goes through the door jamb. Going to buy wire with thinner coating and see if that will work.

If you’re talking about running a new wire through the wire sleeve by the door hinges that passed all wires into the door a thinner wire won’t help. There is a connector on the door side (maybe both ends) that won’t allow you to push additional wires through there. You have to take it apart and drill out the plastic connector so there is room for the wires to pass the connector and enter the door cavity. Kind of a pain, got to be very careful drilling it open around the other wires in it. Took me some time and I then used a metal wire to fish the new speaker wire through it. Popped it out, opened the holes, fed the wire through, then reconnected the whole thing to the door and door jam. I did 16 gauge fine after opening up the connector. My rear doors have both a tweeter and woofer and I have them on separate channels so had to feed 4pair 16 gauge through it.

 

[ivey_usmc]

If you’re talking about running a new wire through the wire sleeve by the door hinges that passed all wires into the door a thinner wire won’t help. There is a connector on the door side (maybe both ends) that won’t allow you to push additional wires through there. You have to take it apart and drill out the plastic connector so there is room for the wires to pass the connector and enter the door cavity. Kind of a pain, got to be very careful drilling it open around the other wires in it. Took me some time and I then used a metal wire to fish the new speaker wire through it. Popped it out, opened the holes, fed the wire through, then reconnected the whole thing to the door and door jam. I did 16 gauge fine after opening up the connector. My rear doors have both a tweeter and woofer and I have them on separate channels so had to feed 4pair 16 gauge through it.

I wonder if I can tap the wire before it goes to the door on the cab side.

 

[john151ama]

I wonder if I can tap the wire before it goes to the door on the cab side.

That is easy to do, the wire is under the sill plate on the floor then goes up the door jam and out to the door.

But you really need to consider the speakers you are using. If you keep the 2 way (tweeter and woofer combo) in the door, and you tap the same wire at the sill plate, and run that to an extra tweeter for the A panel then you are running a 3 or 4 ohm tweeter on top of the 3 or 4 ohm 2 way on the same channel. This is additional resistance for the channel and you will cut down volume to all of those speakers substantially. Also having 2 tweeters that close together with fight each other and not sound good.

You really need a component speaker. Get a component that comes with a tweeter, the 6x9 woofer and crossover.

You can then tap the door speaker wire at the door sill plate and run that into the crossover. Mount that under the dash. Then you can use the existing wire going to the door, hook that to the woofer output of the crossover and that connects to the door speaker using the stock wire. Then you run a new wire off the tweeter terminal of the crossover up to the new a pillar tweeter.

This way you reuse the wire going through the door, have the a pillar tweeter, and proper signal and resistance on the channel.

 

[ivey_usmc]

That is easy to do, the wire is under the sill plate on the floor then goes up the door jam and out to the door.

But you really need to consider the speakers you are using. If you keep the 2 way (tweeter and woofer combo) in the door, and you tap the same wire at the sill plate, and run that to an extra tweeter for the A panel then you are running a 3 or 4 ohm tweeter on top of the 3 or 4 ohm 2 way on the same channel. This is additional resistance for the channel and you will cut down volume to all of those speakers substantially. Also having 2 tweeters that close together with fight each other and not sound good.

You really need a component speaker. Get a component that comes with a tweeter, the 6x9 woofer and crossover.

You can then tap the door speaker wire at the door sill plate and run that into the crossover. Mount that under the dash. Then you can use the existing wire going to the door, hook that to the woofer output of the crossover and that connects to the door speaker using the stock wire. Then you run a new wire off the tweeter terminal of the crossover up to the new a pillar tweeter.

This way you reuse the wire going through the door, have the a pillar tweeter, and proper signal and resistance on the channel.

Okay I see what you are saying. Makes sense

 

[nabatron]

Well looks like this is a little bit more complicated then I thought

 

[ivey_usmc]

Well looks like this is a little bit more complicated then I thought

It is for good sound. Worth it imo

 

[nabatron]

It is for good sound. Worth it imo

Yeah no doubt about that!