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2026 OEM speaker replacement

Shawn719

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2 of 6 speakers completed today. Already a GREAT improvement (speakers and dampening). More to follow when front and dash are replaced.
Out with the old and in with the new (Rockford Fosgate R165X3 / 4ohm)
IMG_0937.webpIMG_0938.webp
Good tutorial on how to remove rear door panels.
Here's for front door panels and dash
 

2 of 6 speakers completed today. Already a GREAT improvement (speakers and dampening). More to follow when front and dash are replaced.
Out with the old and in with the new (Rockford Fosgate R165X3 / 4ohm)
View attachment 32277View attachment 32279
Good tutorial on how to remove rear door panels.
Here's for front door panels and dash
Did you simply swap out the factory speakers and keep all factory amps?
 

4 of 6 speakers completed. Front doors today. Not as noticeable as the rear doors but definitely an upgrade. I have the 6x9 2-ways in door, but high freq cutoff makes the tweeters useless. Nevertheless, they were the only ones not on backorder from Powerbass.
IMG_0944.webpIMG_0947.webpIMG_0948.webp

Here's a better choice for front door, vice two ways:

Note - Thank you to @TheShark @ivey_usmc and everyone contributing to his post at: https://www.at4forum.com/threads/upgraded-door-speakers.4715/
 

4 of 6 speakers completed. Front doors today. Not as noticeable as the rear doors but definitely an upgrade. I have the 6x9 2-ways in door, but high freq cutoff makes the tweeters useless. Nevertheless, they were the only ones not on backorder from Powerbass.
View attachment 32313View attachment 32314View attachment 32315

Here's a better choice for front door, vice two ways:

Note - Thank you to @TheShark @ivey_usmc and everyone contributing to his post at: https://www.at4forum.com/threads/upgraded-door-speakers.4715/
Nice work so far. Lots of work done. I highly recommend either of these amps with DSP for your set up. Best value out there to make what you are doing pay off. They are the same amp so get the best deal. You can cut the speaker wire coming out of your factory amp and just run those 4 channels in to the input of this amp/DSP. Then from 4 of the outputs of this amp connect those back to the wires you cut. You plug your laptop into this amp via usb and you can configure the frequency very easily and get a full signal to each of your new speakers including the rear speakers. Currently your rear doors get virtually no signal. Since you have 2 ways you can send a full signal over the factory wires to make your system sound great plus way more power.

I used this and ran all new speaker wire to my doors and tweeters. I have the AT4X so separate speakers and used all 8 channels. You said you would go to separate tweeters in the future so you could add this now to get a full signal to your newly added speakers then if you add tweeters you can just adjust the frequency and send the correct signal to all of them. For $390 buck this will totally change your current set up and work for future upgrades. Check out my build posts if you’re interested. Did infinity components all the way around at 3 ohms for 50 watts per channel and this JBL amp, then separate kicker key loc amp with DSP for the sub. Also replaced all dash speakers but did not amp so I could blend the door speakers and get rid of the dash heavy set up. You have done the hard work, but getting the right signal to your new set up is the next step if you want to go farther. TheShark and I are just offering help because this system is kind of complicated but fixable. I spent a ton of time testing output and frequently of each factory speaker to completely rebuild mine and get the sound I wanted.
 

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Nice work so far. Lots of work done. I highly recommend either of these amps with DSP for your set up. Best value out there to make what you are doing pay off. They are the same amp so get the best deal. You can cut the speaker wire coming out of your factory amp and just run those 4 channels in to the input of this amp/DSP. Then from 4 of the outputs of this amp connect those back to the wires you cut. You plug your laptop into this amp via usb and you can configure the frequency very easily and get a full signal to each of your new speakers including the rear speakers. Currently your rear doors get virtually no signal. Since you have 2 ways you can send a full signal over the factory wires to make your system sound great plus way more power.

I used this and ran all new speaker wire to my doors and tweeters. I have the AT4X so separate speakers and used all 8 channels. You said you would go to separate tweeters in the future so you could add this now to get a full signal to your newly added speakers then if you add tweeters you can just adjust the frequency and send the correct signal to all of them. For $390 buck this will totally change your current set up and work for future upgrades. Check out my build posts if you’re interested. Did infinity components all the way around at 3 ohms for 50 watts per channel and this JBL amp, then separate kicker key loc amp with DSP for the sub. Also replaced all dash speakers but did not amp so I could blend the door speakers and get rid of the dash heavy set up. You have done the hard work, but getting the right signal to your new set up is the next step if you want to go farther. TheShark and I are just offering help because this system is kind of complicated but fixable. I spent a ton of time testing output and frequently of each factory speaker to completely rebuild mine and get the sound I wanted.
Excellent feedback and guidance. I appreciate you taking the time to send over all the intel. Ill add this to my list.
 

Went to replace the dash speakers and discovered a couple of notes worth mentioning.
Dash is very easy to remove and reinstall. Speakers are easily accessible and removable (two 7mm bolts each). I did not complete the install because the OEM speaker seems more solidly built than the Powerbass replacement, and the OEM plug didn't match up. Prefer not to clip/splice wires.
I'll save dash for a later date and other options.
If anyone is interested, you can have the Powerbass speakers pictured.
IMG_0957.webpIMG_0958.webpIMG_0960.webpIMG_0959.webp
 

I did the AudioControl PNW-275 in all 3 of my dash locations. I think they were a good improvement. I did not amp them, kept them off the OEM amp. I amped and DSP on all the others to get a 360 blend and get rid of the dash heavy set up. They AudioContol are great off the stock power. I was not going to reuse the OEM dash speakers so I cut off the plug on the OEM speaker, soldered my 2 wires to that that then go to the speaker terminals. Saved cutting and splicing in that small awkward space by the windshield. Just plugged in the AudioControl and zipped down the 2 screws. Just more options to consider
 

2 of 6 speakers completed today. Already a GREAT improvement (speakers and dampening). More to follow when front and dash are replaced.
Out with the old and in with the new (Rockford Fosgate R165X3 / 4ohm)
View attachment 32277View attachment 32279
Good tutorial on how to remove rear door panels.
Here's for front door panels and dash
Thanks for the inspiration. Replaced my back and front door speakers per your recommendations and it is a substantial improvement. Thanks for posting the door panel removal videos as well. Completed all speakers in about 3 hours.
 

Thanks for the inspiration. Replaced my back and front door speakers per your recommendations and it is a substantial improvement. Thanks for posting the door panel removal videos as well. Completed all speakers in about 3 hours.
Thank you - Glad to hear!
 

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