yzf1999
Active member
Wow…would you be willing to tell why you think foul play was involved in his death?
2024 AT4X Tailgate opens while driving
- Thread starter HAMMERDOWN1125
- Start date
Not quite the place for a detailed discussion here; folks have their own opinions, mine are stronger since I personally met the guy, even if briefly, just hours before.
yzf1999
Active member
I understand it would be a lot of typing so I get it..but he died over 50 years ago, so I do not think giving your thoughts hear is a big deal and I bet people would find your insight interesting.
Done! I was fearing the worst but ended up doing a perfect seal job. Your pics were a great help. Thanks again.
lorrettehughes
New member
Yes! Terrible design that the tailgate should open while driving. I've noticed the buttons on the front console are super sensitive (say if you have something setting near it, you don't even have to PUSH the button and it opens). I'm estimated we have had people flag us down 4-5 times where the tailgate has opened while we are driving. Seems like there should be a lock to avoid this. Not safe for sure.
Welcome.
john151ama
Well-known member
With the recommendation on here I picked these up off Etsy. Works great on my 2024. Slides in under the tailgate release button and prevents any movement. Can pull it out easy enough to use the button but I really never use it. Between the key fob and handle button I don’t use the dash one.
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This gives me an idea to modify my design from a 'Tailgate open Buzzer/Indicator' to a 'Tailgate opener disabler' based on certain conditions with an option to override.
Viking Truck
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Find a way to add a switch for this kind of fuse and you have it. If it was a normal blade fuse I would have a simple on/off switch mounted on my fuse panel cover right now. Off the tailgate won't open, on, it will. I also want to disable tailgate opening if a trailer with a frame jack is hooked up. I know you can disable the upper tailgate but I want to disable the entire tailgate from opening when a trailer is connected to avoid a situation where someone opens the tailgate thinking they are helping unload without thinking of the problem of the tailgate hitting the trailer jack.
It certainly can be done. I'll look into an option to disable at the rear end or the fuse end, both with remote options to enable or disable; I'm not keen to pull wires through the firewall or anywhere. Having said that, I'm also in favor of having an audio/visual indicator up front, as an alert, since enabling disabling will do nothing for when the tailgate has accidently been left open.
Tailgate Open Alarm/Indicator: The setup is soak testing on the bench for a burn test; basically it should not burn out since the remote key is always on (but alarm off) although the receiver installed somewhere near front dash, will be always on. For the transmitter/remote key, I could install a second appropriately placed magnetic or reed switch on the tailgate to power the remote key as part of the tailgate opening sequence.
I know it looks crude but will be sealed and secure once installed.
Will attach video shortly.
I know it looks crude but will be sealed and secure once installed.
Will attach video shortly.
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Nothing burned out; will finish installation this weekend. Looking forward to being safe, knowing I will have a Tailgate Open Alert. I may eventually integrate the alert with Carplay to provide an onscreen alert notification.
Viking Truck
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I will be towing in the next couple weeks. For now I will just stick to pulling the fuse when a trailer is hooked up. That solves part of the problem but I can check the tailgate status with the side view mirrors.
Magnetic Reed Switch and Magnet installed at Tailgate; magnet is on the tailgate door and installed lower down to prevent being damaged while loading or unloading from the tailgate. It is wired to a bluetooth wireless remote switch (it has on and off); The Off is wired to NC (normally closed) and On is wired to NO (normally open) connections of the reed switch. Remote works off 5V hence is fed by a 12V->5V converter for power. Remote and converter are sealed tight in a 3.9"x2.7"x2" Electronic Project Box installed below the driver side tailgate. 12V power is derived from tailgate lighting wiring circuit. Receiver and buzzer/indicator will be installed below the dash somewhere above the pedals using some ignition powered 12V circuit; I'll finish that install tomorrow job.
I went with a wireless solution to completely avoid front to back wiring.
The receiver/buzzer is latched on via remote on button and turned off via remote off button.
I think for anyone, the most difficult part maybe wiring wires to the remote keypad board, its so small and needs use of a low power soldering iron with a fine tip.
All parts were purchased from Amazon around $60 plus tax.
Note: 1. There is no alarm bypass although an on/off switch could be installed between power source and receiver/buzzer for someone who needs to drive with an open tailgate.
Alternatives to Reed Switch: One could install two mecury tilt swiches, inside the tailgate door and take power from 12V available inside tailgate door.
If anyone is interested, I can post a parts list and links here.
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All installed, took only a few minutes to install the receiver/buzzer up front. Took power off the cable leading to dashcam backup battery; cable was above passenger footwell.
Took a short video with sound before I hid it above the footwell
