My audio build...

Ouch! 10-12K for what? A full install?

Pb82 Ronin said:

Ouch! 10-12K for what? A full install?

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Yeah - replace all 12 speakers - HELIX 12 channel amp with DSP - JL Audio Dual 12” Subwoofer and Box - Helix 880w subwoofer AMP - and all the tuning…..may step into 50% with subs and speaker replacement and do 22 channel amp/DSP and tuning after. When I price all the items - it makes sense - just too much to spend for me to justify on audio. I was thinking 6,500 I will want to do tires and wheels - and just had PPF and Ceramic done….

Dude, way too much IMO. You don't need 12 speakers. That's going to COMPLICATE tuning, not make it easier. Swap out the 3-ways in front (and in the rear doors if you want, totally not necessary though) and add your subs and DSP. Do some deadening and enjoy.

Pb82 Ronin said:

Dude, way too much IMO. You don't need 12 speakers. That's going to COMPLICATE tuning, not make it easier. Swap out the 3-ways in front (and in the rear doors if you want, totally not necessary though) and add your subs and DSP. Do some deadening and enjoy.

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There are 3 speaker in dash and 1 tweeter in each of the A Pillars. Speakers in front doors are single cone….

The center speaker in the dash is not really for music. It's for your chimes, telephone, navigation, etc. You have the same front stage as everyone else, even with the "12 speaker" kit. GM considers the panel exciters for ANC as speakers and there are 4 of them. They are NOT speakers though. I love the theory behind ANC, but it is the ENEMY of a great sound system.

Pb82 Ronin said:

The center speaker in the dash is not really for music. It's for your chimes, telephone, navigation, etc. You have the same front stage as everyone else, even with the "12 speaker" kit. GM considers the panel exciters for ANC as speakers and there are 4 of them. They are NOT speakers though. I love the theory behind ANC, but it is the ENEMY of a great sound system.

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All my chimes, signal sound and all come from far left speaker (I covered each one as a test) ..so of the 5 separate speaker enclosures n the dash and a-pillar - I can hear (audio) sound out of all but the middle….

The shop did recommend strategic change outs - as opposed to all right out the gate. Even said they could leave front door speakers and tune the base out for more mid. I’m missing highs and lows. Kept thinking this week “this isn’t too bad…” then jumped in the Tesla to move the car and it’s jumping compared to truck.

Which ones should I target first to swap?

Pb82 Ronin said:

The center speaker in the dash is not really for music. It's for your chimes, telephone, navigation, etc. You have the same front stage as everyone else, even with the "12 speaker" kit. GM considers the panel exciters for ANC as speakers and there are 4 of them. They are NOT speakers though. I love the theory behind ANC, but it is the ENEMY of a great sound system.

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What would you recommend as a starting point?

Subs and front stage speakers. That's what you say you're missing.

Finished my sub box last night for a JL 10TW-1-4.

Pb82 Ronin said:

Got cracking today...
Making an amp rack for the empty space in my sub box...

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Threw on some black paint...
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Made the first section of the main 4 gauge power cable to the fuse holder.
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Finish mounted the fuse holder to the battery hold down so I wouldn't have to worry about removing (or moving) this every time I needed to pop the cover off.View attachment 915 A quick session with the dremel opened up the channel for the cable. Easy stuff.
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Sorry for the blurry pics...hard to take close-ups in low light...
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Lid closes perfectly.
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Made a quick wiring bundle for the Wavetech. 18 gauge standard wire.
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This is a work in progress and here is where I called it a night. I think this will be how I will finish install the subs. Just need a short RCA from the Wavetech to the amp which I just ordered. I would make my own...but RCA's are so cheap and plentiful...I'll just buy one for now and maybe make a custom fit one later. I'm really excited to get this thing jamming in the truck. The factory stuff is just so depressing. The Wavetech will fix the missing <40Hz information that is so desperately needed as seen below.
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If you have questions about anything I'm doing, feel free to ask away.

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Awesome work do you do this professionally?

Drdrummer65 said:

Awesome work do you do this professionally?

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Thanks. No, I don't do this professionally, although I should probably charge more than I do. LOL! Normally I'll do an install for a handle or two of bourbon. One payment for the current install I'm doing, I'm getting free labor and materials on a bumper I'm building for my corvette.

Pb82 Ronin said:

Thanks. No, I don't do this professionally, although I should probably charge more than I do. LOL! Normally I'll do an install for a handle or two of bourbon. One payment for the current install I'm doing, I'm getting free labor and materials on a bumper I'm building for my corvette.

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I love the bartering system.

This is what I got so far. I want to be able to calibrate the bass amp to 30HZ by using the SMD but the installer said the only way to do it is unplugged all 12 speaker any help going crazy the mods and high sound ok but for the bass I should be able to get good bass I’m using JL Audio RD 1500/1 with 2 JL Audio 8” w7 2 of them

I sound deadened all 4 doors - used black hole matting and blocks inside door panels and sound skin under door panel (custom cut for GMC by Sound Skins), added matting to door panel plastic of each door panel and then used small pieces or matting at each clip to keep them
from rattling.

Replaced rear door speakers with BLAM coaxial 6.5” speakers.

Just the sound deadening changed the whole dynamic of the system - actually has some bass now, and no more door rattles or hallow sounding tin - and doors close with a solid feel now.

Next steps will be replacing a-pillar tweeters and r and l dash speakers with BLAM products as well. Current a-pillar tweeters are over-driven and crackle very easily.

Stil need to deaden back wall and install sounds good stereo’s amp rack. Will deaden floors along the way.

Will use a HELIX 900 Watt 12-Channel with built-in DSP and have a local shop tune it.

Next will be JL Audio Dual Sub with an 800W Helix Amp (may do this as a third stage to see how it goes coupled with the deadening). JL makes one for double cab with 10” subs that fits the crew cab - may make more sense dual 12”. Save a little space under seat as well.

Also - infotainment goes in next week to dealer - all kinds of issues with audio system beyond the crappy sound. So that before to make gets squared away under warranty.