Not sure what a dealer does on our trucks but I usually start from scratch unless I've purchased a Benz, Maserati etc. which 'may' come with better conditioning before delivery. I always use a good paint sealant after stripping wax every six months, or more frequently if the vehicle is subject to off-road or other messy use. Any tree sap is extremely sticky and although I try and avoid parking anywhere near trees, it is at times unavoidable.
If sap stains are bad, I wash the car in dawn soap while using a claybar, it will also strip car waxes etc. Although I've never tried it, rubbing alcohol or WD-40 are effective for sap removal.
After stripping the wax, you can either start with paint correction, removing swirl marks etc. although you'll need the right tools, pads and equipment and a paint depth guage.
Next step is to apply a good deep gloss paint sealant which will make your vehicle shine. A day after the sealant has fully cured, I apply a good high carnauba content wax (my recent favourite is SWISSVAX CARAT (it is pretty expensive), it brings out amazing shine and depth, particularly to dark colors, or a good synthetic/carnauba blend wax which will last somewhat longer on your vehicle; application, buffing etc. needs patience and can take quite some time. Leave it another day if time permits, then apply a wax sealer for the final protection to seal the wax and shine in; I've tried the newer graphine based or other wax sealers. I can usually get the shine to last weeks into months even through mild shampoo car washes (at home). I use a 3" rotary applicator for applying sealant and waxes or physical bare hand apply an expensive carnauba wax which seems to work well. For paint correction, buffing and polishing I use a 6" rotary tool with a variety of cutting, buffing and polishing pads etc.
Several people here have installed ppf, ceramic coating etc. to protect their car paint but neither is permanent.
