PAC AP4-GM71 W/ Kicker GM Sub

The_DJH · Jul 9, 2026

How do I do that?

john151ama · Jul 9, 2026

The_DJH said:
Gotcha.

What about the anc. So when I have no hvac on, radio off, and cooled seats off…i always have a hissing sound. So I got an AMC bypass, maybe that will help. Idk

Sounds like your amp is staying on so you have the hiss when everything else is quiet. Did you do auto turn on from the speaker wires or use a 12v remote turn on wire? I had 2 high level settings on my kicker amp and the 12 v. Got the hiss when I was switched to H1, but no hiss when switched to H2. Need to command the amp to turn on and off properly to avoid the hiss

The_DJH · Jul 9, 2026

john151ama said:
Sounds like your amp is staying on so you have the hiss when everything else is quiet. Did you do auto turn on from the speaker wires or use a 12v remote turn on wire? I had 2 high level settings on my kicker amp and the 12 v. Got the hiss when I was switched to H1, but no hiss when switched to H2. Need to command the amp to turn on and off properly to avoid the hiss

The GM Kicker is tied into the console sub wires instead of the front left speaker.

I left the dipswitches as is, should I adjust em?

john151ama · Jul 9, 2026

The_DJH said:
The GM Kicker is tied into the console sub wires instead of the front left speaker.

I left the dipswitches as is, should I adjust em?

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought the hiss was coming from your other speakers, not the sub.

If you have the GM kicker sub and that is where the hissing is coming from I would changer your input wires to the front door speakers. That is what GM specifies. I also tried using the OEM sub wires as inputs for my aftermarket sub amp. Horrible results. That OEM center console sub singnal is not a full range sub signal you need. And based on volume it reduces the signal so you don’t blow the crappy OEM sub. Need to use the front door wires as inputs. They don’t get reduced when you turn up the volume, and they have a fuller signal range that a normal sub needs. The amp should filter out the frequencies above what the kicker sub uses. I use both front door speakers as inputs to my aftermarket amp and sub

The_DJH · Jul 9, 2026

john151ama said:
Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought the hiss was coming from your other speakers, not the sub.

If you have the GM kicker sub and that is where the hissing is coming from I would changer your input wires to the front door speakers. That is what GM specifies. I also tried using the OEM sub wires as inputs for my aftermarket sub amp. Horrible results. That OEM center console sub singnal is not a full range sub signal you need. And based on volume it reduces the signal so you don’t blow the crappy OEM sub. Need to use the front door wires as inputs. They don’t get reduced when you turn up the volume, and they have a fuller signal range that a normal sub needs. The amp should filter out the frequencies above what the kicker sub uses. I use both front door speakers as inputs to my aftermarket amp and sub

Gotcha, I can swap since I wired it in a way I could easily switch

I’ll report back if that hissing noise go away.

Thank you

john151ama · Jul 9, 2026

The_DJH said:
Gotcha, I can swap since I wired it in a way I could easily switch

I’ll report back if that hissing noise go away.

Thank you

Hope that does it. Either way you will have a much better input signal. If the hiss isn’t gone, I would go dip switches next. Good luck

The_DJH · Jul 10, 2026

john151ama said:
Hope that does it. Either way you will have a much better input signal. If the hiss isn’t gone, I would go dip switches next. Good luck

For the dip switches, I’ve seen people put them all “on”, what’s the suggested preference?

john151ama · Jul 10, 2026

The_DJH said:
For the dip switches, I’ve seen people put them all “on”, what’s the suggested preference?

I don’t have the OEM aftermarket kicker set up, built my own set up with a kicker mono key 500w amp and 10” kicker solo. No experience with the dip switches settings for yours.

Do a key word search on here, there are threads discussing it. I found this for you.

“Well, I had my Kicker sub installed yesterday. I left a note for the tech with the base knob under the back seat asking if there’s a port for the knob. The tech hooked me up and installed it! Not where I would’ve mounted the knob but it works. The sound, not overly impressed at first but definitely an improvement. However, this morning I opened up the amp and flipped 2 and 3 dip switches to up position and that was a huge difference. I’m hoping as this sub breaks in it keeps getting better.”

MilesToEmpty · Aug 7, 2026

I ended up ordering the AudioControl PNW-275 for my truck to replace the factory bose tweeters.
So far my factory system has blown out the driver side tweeter twice now. I am not using the inline included filters, when those are installed the tweeters dont work at all, no sound from them what so ever.

Talking with crutchfield they said I need to use them, but they dont work... so Im stumped.

The_DJH · Aug 9, 2026

MilesToEmpty said:
I ended up ordering the AudioControl PNW-275 for my truck to replace the factory bose tweeters.
So far my factory system has blown out the driver side tweeter twice now. I am not using the inline included filters, when those are installed the tweeters dont work at all, no sound from them what so ever.

Talking with crutchfield they said I need to use them, but they dont work... so Im stumped.

So weird.

When I installed mine with the blockers, I lost all chimes, ect. Once I removed the blockers, I regained all sounds and it made a noticale difference. I have yet to blow one of them and i listen pretty lud as well.

john151ama · Aug 9, 2026

The_DJH said:
So weird.

When I installed mine with the blockers, I lost all chimes, ect. Once I removed the blockers, I regained all sounds and it made a noticale difference. I have yet to blow one of them and i listen pretty lud as well.

No issues for me either, replaced all 3 dash speakers with the PNW, no blockers about 3 years ago and no issues.