I'm gonna do it...

I’m going through exactly what you’ve just done but I want to keep my stock wheels. Any advice? Can I go bigger than 275/60/20 with the 1.75” leveling kit? Thinking K02s but not going to buy until I figure out what my wheel situation is. I’m not up for buying new wheels and don’t want to rub if I can avoid it.
There are a lot of comments in this forum about this topic, and I sort of cobbled together my opinion based on those. I am planning on buying FUEL 20x9 +1 offset rims with 285/65/20 tires and they will fit just fine with the leveling kit. I think you could get an even more aggressive tire with some minor mods like the mudflap delete and maybe some light trimming.
 

I’m going through exactly what you’ve just done but I want to keep my stock wheels. Any advice? Can I go bigger than 275/60/20 with the 1.75” leveling kit? Thinking K02s but not going to buy until I figure out what my wheel situation is. I’m not up for buying new wheels and don’t want to rub if I can avoid it.
I went with the rough country 1.75" leveling kit and installed a mudflap delete kit and was able to comfortably fit 285/65R20 KO2s. I had it installed at a local shop but there is zero rub.
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I went with the rough country 1.75" leveling kit and installed a mudflap delete kit and was able to comfortably fit 285/65R20 KO2s. I had it installed at a local shop but there is zero rub. View attachment 3372View attachment 3373

Do you know the specs on your stock wheels? I have the stock 18" wheels and the are 8.5 wide with +24 offset. I want to go with 20" wheels with 0 offset and run the same tire size you have and am trying to figure out if it is possible with the RC 1.75 or 2" level kit
 

Do you know the specs on your stock wheels? I have the stock 18" wheels and the are 8.5 wide with +24 offset. I want to go with 20" wheels with 0 offset and run the same tire size you have and am trying to figure out if it is possible with the RC 1.75 or 2" level kit
From what I've found the factory 20" wheel has a 9.0 width and the wheel offset is +28.
 

There should be plenty of at4 factory wheels in black for you to get an idea depending on what color you are considering. I powder coated my 2022 factory wheels gloss black which I believe was the same color as yours but are a different style wheel than yours. I didn’t care for the original color combination with my blue truck so I had them powder coated. I spent 500 to get them done including lug nuts. I like them way more now. However, I liked the design of my wheels so changing the color worked. You just need to vision what yours will look like before you spend the money. If you don’t like the style of your wheels then a new color may not do the trick. It’s all preference so good luck. Also, love my 1.75 Ready left leveling to answer your other question.
Where did you get the coating done? Wheel shop or?
 

I just put 265/75/r20 tires on my truck and have zero rub at full lock forward and reverse. I’ll say this. Without the leveling kit, it looks great. I was prepared to add the front kit if it rubbed but luckily it doesn’t and it fills the wheel wells beautifully. I went with the Cooper Discoverer XLT which are 34.2” in diameter. Was torn between those and the Nitto Recon Grapplers but went with the coopers due to the fact that the Nittos are new and don’t have a lot of customer feedback yet. What an upgrade over my stock Dueler ATs.
 

No, you are right. A 1.75" front level (if it actually even is a true 1.75", usually it is a tad less than advertised), should theoretically only raise the middle of the truck by half of that.

But since the front of the cab is closer to the front wheels than true middle, call it raising the front of the cab by 1". Then add in whatever extra height non-stock tires would add, if you have bigger than stock tires. So most AT4's come with 32" stock tires. If you put 34" aftermarket tires on (for example), you should only gain an inch of actual height from the tires (2 divided by 1).

That would be a full 2 " higher at the front of the cab/hood. Even on a stock/factory lifted AT4, which is 2" over non-AT4 Sierras, adding only 2" to an AT4's height should (and will) fit under a 7' garage door. And even at 7', the actual height of the garage opening is a little less than 7', depending on how the garage door frame was bucked out. Also, often the garage door itself is usually not 100% up to the top of that height. So say, 6'-10.5" for true clearance on a 7' garage door opening with the garage door and bucked out frame. These AT4's will fit in those openings. It will be tight, but they will fit.

BTW, if I ever build another house again (always built my own houses as a builder/contractor), I will NEVER have less than an 8' garage door opening for height. 7' is common, was the norm, but getting less so, for good reason.
I had my 7' garage door changed to an 8' door. Now I don't have to worry about clearing the door.
 

I have to ask, how much was the process to change your door? I have a 7 foot door too and it drives me crazy
Well, the entire door frame had to be changed, not wider but taller. Then we had to buy a taller garage door. I could have just added a section to the old door, but I wanted an insulated door which the old one was not, plus I added a row of windows which made it much brighter in the garage when the door was closed. I wish I could have made the door wider but that would have meant major changes to the entire structure. Then we had to re-side the house where the door was taller plus add the trim which changed because the opening was 12" bigger. It was a lot of work but well worth the money and effort.
 

Well, the entire door frame had to be changed, not wider but taller. Then we had to buy a taller garage door. I could have just added a section to the old door, but I wanted an insulated door which the old one was not, plus I added a row of windows which made it much brighter in the garage when the door was closed. I wish I could have made the door wider but that would have meant major changes to the entire structure. Then we had to re-side the house where the door was taller plus add the trim which changed because the opening was 12" bigger. It was a lot of work but well worth the money and effort.
I’m going to be moving and most likely selling in two years so I’m not sure if it’s worth it.
 

I just installed the ready lift 2” SST with stock 20s on 295 60 r20 toyos. You’ll need a .75” spacer and have to do minor trimming on the mud flap, but that only takes ten minutes and his held on with four small screws. I love the height and the look.
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I just installed the ready lift 2” SST with stock 20s on 295 60 r20 toyos. You’ll need a .75” spacer and have to do minor trimming on the mud flap, but that only takes ten minutes and his held on with four small screws. I love the height and the look. View attachment 5372View attachment 5373View attachment 5374View attachment 5375View attachment 5376View attachment 5377
Truck looks good! Did you install the 3 inch rear block as well? You have .75" spacers? Did you have to install new studs or did you have enough length on your stock studs?
 

There are a lot of comments in this forum about this topic, and I sort of cobbled together my opinion based on those. I am planning on buying FUEL 20x9 +1 offset rims with 285/65/20 tires and they will fit just fine with the leveling kit. I think you could get an even more aggressive tire with some minor mods like the mudflap delete and maybe some light trimming.
I am wanting to run this same set up on my 2024, did you have any rubbing with this set up? Any pics?
 

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