Decided on the GM Kicker sub

And you have a Bose system or no? I'm not familiar to the non refresh.
Yes. Its a different set without BOSE. If you read back through this thread I also replaced all the Bose Speakers. Lots of questions you might get answered.
 

Yes. Its a different set without BOSE. If you read back through this thread I also replaced all the Bose Speakers. Lots of questions you might get answered.
I remember the speaker replacements. Guess I glossed over the head unit. Wonder if that older unit is compatible and if so, if I still get more bang for my buck.
 

Lot's of good info on here.. and if anyone is interested here is an alternate wiring method tapping the sub wires and not the speaker wires - https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/to...ring-for-kicker-sub-with-bose-system-do-this/.

Also, I received a new unit today from GM Parts Direct and can confirm the amp does have the dip switches and the spot for the control knob.
I just found out from Kicker that they went back to the original with dip switches. The reason they changed to the shit amp without switches or jack was covid logistical issues. I spoke with two of their OEM techs at length. The dip switches 1, 2 and 3 are gain, bass boost and bass boost. They don't recommend flipping either 2 or 3 into the up position as it will cause "clip" and kill the voice coils. I'm no audio guru but these guys listened to my dumb ass for 15 minutes and seemed genuine in their responses.

If I got my hands on the original amp with switches, I personally would try flipping number 2 to the up position and see what happened.
 

Lot's of good info on here.. and if anyone is interested here is an alternate wiring method tapping the sub wires and not the speaker wires - https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/to...ring-for-kicker-sub-with-bose-system-do-this/.

Also, I received a new unit today from GM Parts Direct and can confirm the amp does have the dip switches and the spot for the control knob.
I'm going to try tapping the "sub" wiring. If you read the entire thread, a guy has an amp like mine, read no switches, and complains of not being able to turn down the bass. I'm expecting the same result but it's worth a shot as everyone else raves about the improvement.

I contacted Kicker again and verified that I can in fact swap the shit amp out with the one with switches and aux jack. Worst case scenario, I find a used one on marketplace and make the swap while hooked up to the sub wiring.
 

I'm guessing Kicker cannot directly sell just the amp you want?
They cannot. They also admitted that even if they could, they couldn't guarantee which amp I receive as they have both in stock.
 

So I sourced a gently used original version with the dip switches and gain control knob jack. My plan is to wire the current amp to the bass wires and see what happens. I suspect it will be way too much bass as there is no means to adjust beyond EQ. I will then install the "new" old amp original diagram of the front passenger. Will test for a bit then I will most likely hook up the "new" old amp to the bass wires. I will update when able.
 

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