Rle312
Member
I should clarify - I decided to do it, but haven't yet. Search online range from $60-$120 depending if you want U bolts or not. Sorry for posting in this thread, realized this is AT4X. Mine is the normal AT4 with a 2" factory lift
AT4X leveling kit
- Thread starter Vitology
- Start date
usmcfiredog
Active member
if I am not mistaken both the AT4 and the AT4X come with the factory 2 inch lift. The difference between the two are the types of shocks.
adeerchaser
Well-known member
You prolly rite, now that I recall. Both my AT4’s were HD’s. The 1500 ‘s did have it. See, first mistake of my life and I make it public. Well. Crap.
Teegunn
Well-known member
I think there may be some others in here that have put that size tire on stock wheels. You may need to do a little trimming, but it will probably be close and should fit for the most part. I think the 295/70R18 is a 35" tire. Stock wheels with a positive offset will help. You will probably be closer to the ball joint with the tire than you want to be, but I think it will clear.
Hopefully others in this forum who have that same tire will chime in.
Teegunn
Well-known member
You should be OK on the stock wheel I believe. I put on 285/70r18's Nitto RG's on -13 offset wheels on my truck. Those tires are 33.98" tall and 11.5 wide. With the -13 offset there was a very slight rubbing on the front rear factory mudflaps on my 23 AT4X. I took off the mudflaps and also the mounting bracket behind the factory wheel well splash guard to give a little extra space. I trimmed the mudflaps with a dremel to get rid of the areas where the tire was slightly rubbing, then was able to re-install the factory mudflaps even with the trimmed part gone and no mounting bracket behind it. I do have the Rough Country 1.5" front level and Rough Country 3.5" improved angle upper control arms, for reference to what front level I have on my AT4X.
I think you would be pushing it on the 34.84" tall tire, but on factory wheels it may work.
Thanks - Do you have any pics to share?
Teegunn
Well-known member
Sure. I have posted some on a couple threads here but I will post a couple of my truck to this post. I don't have pictures of the trimmed mud flaps, and there really isn't much difference just by looking at them from what they were. There is a YT channel - lonestarhawaiian or something similar - where he shows how he took the brackets off behind the rear mud flap (the bracket is bolted to the frame). He took his wheels off, took the entire wheel liner off, to give more room to do this. I didn't take my wheels off, or take off the entire wheel liner. Once I got the factor mud flaps off, I took a few screws out that were holding the lower portion of the wheel well liner off and was able to pull it back enough to do get the metal brackets bolted off. I then used a dremel to trim the factory mud flaps of the areas that were slightly rubbing.
Here are a couple pics of my truck with the RC 1.5" front level (also has the RC 3.5" improved angle upper contol arms installed), with Nitto RG 285/70R18 tires on Fuel Contra 437 wheel which are -13 offset. This makes the wheel protrude about an inch and a half further than the stock wheel, which I believe is a +24 (or around that) offset.
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adeerchaser
Well-known member
I run Toyo Mt’s on stock wheels, and I have no front end lift- it is stock. I have 285/70/18 on my truck- no cutting, no trimming, no rubbing. According to Toyo Site-
The 285/70/18 is 34.1 tall and 11.4 wide
The 295/70/18 is 34.5 tall and 11.8 wide
So they are .4 bigger in both area’s and you have a lift- I would say easily go on. Although I do not know what brand you are looking at
Teegunn
Well-known member
On stock wheels with stock +24 offset, I agree. It still might be close though with no front level.
Now do what I did and go with an offset that is about an inch and a half further out from the stock wheels, and rubbing issues become much more prevalent.
TexasAT4X
Well-known member
If keeping your factory UCA, you should be fine. If upgrading to an aftermarket UCA which tend to be thicker, a 295 width on stock offset will likely rub. Just experienced that this week on a 20x9 +20 Fuel with the Zone UCA which are awesome, but def beefier/thicker, so I am going with a +1 offset wheel now and 295/60 (34x12)
I’ll post after new tires/wheels go on this weekend to see before/after with a 2” level
Good luck with your build!
I’ll post after new tires/wheels go on this weekend to see before/after with a 2” level
Good luck with your build!
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glj5705
New member
What size/brand level is this?
TexasAT4X
Well-known member
Please see pics
Body armor 4x4 2” spacer
Zone for replacement UCA
It’s not labeled for the AT4X but the off-road shop has installed these on two ZR2 with the same suspension and after installing on my AT4X he said it rides and aligned very well.
I’m picking it up on Monday after new tires/wheels come in, so will report back after new pics and getting some miles on it.
I bought the 1.5” kit from Rough County that was $70 and honestly didn’t feel confident in the build quality and look/feel of the kit.
This Body Armor kit is built using 1/4” steel and has grade 10 hardware, so decided to give it a go after talking with the shop owner and feeling the build quality. Fingers crossed!
Attachments
what didn't you like on the rough country kit exactly ?Please see pics
Body armor 4x4 2” spacer
Zone for replacement UCA
It’s not labeled for the AT4X but the off-road shop has installed these on two ZR2 with the same suspension and after installing on my AT4X he said it rides and aligned very well.
I’m picking it up on Monday after new tires/wheels come in, so will report back after new pics and getting some miles on it.
I bought the 1.5” kit from Rough County that was $70 and honestly didn’t feel confident in the build quality and look/feel of the kit.
This Body Armor kit is built using 1/4” steel and has grade 10 hardware, so decided to give it a go after talking with the shop owner and feeling the build quality. Fingers crossed!
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