AT4X leveling kit

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697FDC6F-85B3-4FC6-8CD8-51711B1F7D5B.webp8C55C5B2-A2A0-47A9-A14E-EDCAC3ABFBD9.webpHers is mine. I ”flipped” rear blocks, yes it lowered it a little in the rear but now I have a level truck. Got rid of chrome lugs. Put on Toyo MT’s 285/70/18. No cutting, no rubbing and full wheel wells. Still have factory smooth ride!
 

View attachment 1934View attachment 1933View attachment 1932Hers is mine. I ”flipped” rear blocks, yes it lowered it a little in the rear but now I have a level truck. Got rid of chrome lugs. Put on Toyo MT’s 285/70/18. No cutting, no rubbing and full wheel wells. Still have factory smooth ride!
Looks great!! Those tires are slightly larger than the 285/60r20 (33.7x11.5) I put on mine with the level and I had some rub before removing the mud flaps. Goes to show you the factory wheel offset and 18x8.5 vs a 20x9 +1 offset is def the key to stuffing more rubber in the wheel wells w/o rubbing issues. Def agree these trucks should have offered 33-34” tires from the factory

Are those the Rough Country caliper covers? The red looks great to match the badges, might have to do those too!
 

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Naw I just painted the calipers myself. After much advice here, I stuck with factory wheels as that seemed to be best for bigger tires. And YES they dropped the ball big time with the tire size these trucks have!!
 

Installed the 1.75” ReadY Lift kit today to AT4X
Looks so much better!! Everything working well (park sensors, camera, adaptive cruise)

honestly can’t tell the difference from factory ride but only drove it 25 miles from the shop so will do a review after 1000 miles or so.

Zero rub with 285/60/20 with 20x9 +1 offset
But I did delete mudflaps and installing the finishing trim this weekend to cover the holes

 

View attachment 1934View attachment 1933View attachment 1932Hers is mine. I ”flipped” rear blocks, yes it lowered it a little in the rear but now I have a level truck. Got rid of chrome lugs. Put on Toyo MT’s 285/70/18. No cutting, no rubbing and full wheel wells. Still have factory smooth ride!
Man I’d love to pick your brain about this! I know nothing about this but I’m not wanting to change my front suspension on a 70k truck however I still want the truck level! Aren’t the rear blocks shaped to fit the axel? How would you flip them without putting too much pressure to risk breaking something?
DM ME BRO! :)
 

Man I’d love to pick your brain about this! I know nothing about this but I’m not wanting to change my front suspension on a 70k truck however I still want the truck level! Aren’t the rear blocks shaped to fit the axel? How would you flip them without putting too much pressure to risk breaking something?
DM ME BRO! :)
He moved the blocks to the top of the axle, this allows you to lower the rear two inches while still using the factory U bolt and not having to get a shorter one.
 

He moved the blocks to the top of the axle, this allows you to lower the rear two inches while still using the factory U bolt and not having to get a shorter one.
Yep, this is exactly what I did. It results in block, u-bolt and plate all put together the same, no extra pressure any where. Level same great ride, no issue with shock etc. Let me know if you have any other questions
 

I went with the Ready Lift level for AT4X since it replaces the UCAs also. Weird that this link used to say “compatible with AT4X” and now says it isn’t?! Kinda odd but I don’t seem to have any issues with it.


Went with 285/60r20 Nitto RG (33.7”x11.5”) and Fuel Rebel 20x9 +1. Had slight rub but removed mud flaps and minor trimming and all good.
Would recommend an offset wheel of +10 to +20 for better angles when turning to fit larger tires. I would have gone with a +18 if I did it all over again.
Thanks and hopes this helps!
Does the Fuel Rebel come in a +18 offset also?
 

Comes in a +20
This would be a better fitment for a larger tire or more clearance for the 285/60r20 if you don’t want to trim any or at least less of the front air dam
Thanks, that helps. As far as a little bit of poke, does the +20 have less than yours? I do like just a tad of poke, where the tire is not inside the fender.
 

Yes, the +20 will only push the wheel out about 1/4” more than factory plus the slightly wider tire would only be about 1/2 to 3/4” total poked out vs factory set up. Sounds like this would be the right stance you are looking for, and would offer better tire clearance when at full lock turning.
 

Yes, the +20 will only push the wheel out about 1/4” more than factory plus the slightly wider tire would only be about 1/2 to 3/4” total poked out vs factory set up. Sounds like this would be the right stance you are looking for, and would offer better tire clearance when at full lock turning.
Great, thanks!
 

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