Replacing the Ranchos

[Sloth0047]

Good morning all, Just created my account. Looks like I will be going to pick up a new 21 AT4 in cardinal red this weekend. This will be my 3rd GMC but first new vehicle and I absolutely cannot wait!

Yzerplan, sorry to hear about your experience with that terrible first shop. Glad you have everything straightened out and you're happy with everything now.

I test drove a 2021 and agree that the dampers need upgraded. Its not as bad as my 2016 with the all terrain package and ranchos (that thing could give me sea sickness, granted is has 100k on the stock ranchos but still), but it was noticeable.

A close friend of mine works for Bilstein so I am set on getting a set of their dampers, but have some questions:

1. Going from the Bilstein website, they only show the 5100s and 5160s (only for the rear) available for our model. From what I've read, this is because the 5100s actually have a specific part number for our trucks and are a longer stroke because of the factory lift.
2. 4WP shows many options from Bilstein available for our trucks. Is this just because the fitment is the same they are just assuming you will set the damper on the higher lift position to make up for the factory lift or why wouldn't Bilstein show these as available for our model?
   1. if I'm understanding this correctly the 5100s on Bilstein's website are a longer stroke for our trucks (meaning you can set it at normal ride height with no lift and the truck will sit the same height as it does from factory) and the other models offered on 4WP still fit, but require them to be set to a higher lift to achieve factory ride height (ie set it at the 2" mark to achieve factory height).
3. Lastly, It sounds like the 5100s are a good improvement over factory. I drive 90% on road with my off-road being limited to hunting season, some camping and visiting family on farms and in the country. I also rarely tow, but do have stuff in the bed. Are 6112s, or higher, necessary or do they provide any benefit besides the remote reservoir?

Thanks in advance!

 

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[TheYzerplan]

Good morning all, Just created my account. Looks like I will be going to pick up a new 21 AT4 in cardinal red this weekend. This will be my 3rd GMC but first new vehicle and I absolutely cannot wait!

Yzerplan, sorry to hear about your experience with that terrible first shop. Glad you have everything straightened out and you're happy with everything now.

I test drove a 2021 and agree that the dampers need upgraded. Its not as bad as my 2016 with the all terrain package and ranchos (that thing could give me sea sickness, granted is has 100k on the stock ranchos but still), but it was noticeable.

A close friend of mine works for Bilstein so I am set on getting a set of their dampers, but have some questions:

1. Going from the Bilstein website, they only show the 5100s and 5160s (only for the rear) available for our model. From what I've read, this is because the 5100s actually have a specific part number for our trucks and are a longer stroke because of the factory lift.
2. 4WP shows many options from Bilstein available for our trucks. Is this just because the fitment is the same they are just assuming you will set the damper on the higher lift position to make up for the factory lift or why wouldn't Bilstein show these as available for our model?
   1. if I'm understanding this correctly the 5100s on Bilstein's website are a longer stroke for our trucks (meaning you can set it at normal ride height with no lift and the truck will sit the same height as it does from factory) and the other models offered on 4WP still fit, but require them to be set to a higher lift to achieve factory ride height (ie set it at the 2" mark to achieve factory height).
3. Lastly, It sounds like the 5100s are a good improvement over factory. I drive 90% on road with my off-road being limited to hunting season, some camping and visiting family on farms and in the country. I also rarely tow, but do have stuff in the bed. Are 6112s, or higher, necessary or do they provide any benefit besides the remote reservoir?

Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the community! Cardinal red was my initial want, but I'm glad I didn't do it. The 6.2 with intake and exhaust can get you in some trouble with the law, so fun to drive when the kids aren't in the back. The experience was a nightmare, glad it's over, hope it can help you and others.


1) I watched the guys at the second shop get in the green with caster, camber, and toe (CCT), so the geometry seems to match, but I assume Bilstein recommends otherwise because of the load up top. If the 1st shop hadn't been so bad, I might have a better understanding. The safe bet is to stick with the 5100, so you don't end up like me. I bought both sets for the 1st shop, and they said both pairs fit similarly, in that they 'didn't fit'. The 2nd shop that specializes in lifted trucks told me that both fit with no issues, and let me watch the whole thing to verify, each time. Unless you're riding the Baja, it shouldn't matter.... and even then, you should have a Colorado ZR2 or Bison.

2) I'm not an engineer, so hopefully someone far more qualified than me will answer this... but... my understanding is that you can add to factory rake as long as CCT stays green. In the case of the AT4, it's almost leveled from factory with a very slight rake. As you can see with the evolution of mine, there are several different adjustments, but not all of them will put you in the green for CCT. The highest adjustment on the 5100 puts you at level, removing factory rake, but no idea if it will work. The 5100's alow you to reach the green on CCT and maintain the factory look, the 6112's do not, so this probably is why Bilstein recommends them as a 'factory' replacement.

[6112 adjustments]

3) You sound just like me, only I pull a camper. Since you load your bed, I'd get the 5160 for the rear, it does make a bit of difference.



Here are some updated pics of what it looks like now:

Good luck, and again, I hope we can get someone here to break down the science for us, because I'm still curious myself.

 

[Sloth0047]

Welcome to the community! Cardinal red was my initial want, but I'm glad I didn't do it. The 6.2 with intake and exhaust can get you in some trouble with the law, so fun to drive when the kids aren't in the back. The experience was a nightmare, glad it's over, hope it can help you and others.


1) I watched the guys at the second shop get in the green with caster, camber, and toe (CCT), so the geometry seems to match, but I assume Bilstein recommends otherwise because of the load up top. If the 1st shop hadn't been so bad, I might have a better understanding. The safe bet is to stick with the 5100, so you don't end up like me. I bought both sets for the 1st shop, and they said both pairs fit similarly, in that they 'didn't fit'. The 2nd shop that specializes in lifted trucks told me that both fit with no issues, and let me watch the whole thing to verify, each time. Unless you're riding the Baja, it shouldn't matter.... and even then, you should have a Colorado ZR2 or Bison.

2) I'm not an engineer, so hopefully someone far more qualified than me will answer this... but... my understanding is that you can add to factory rake as long CCT stays green. In the case of the AT4, it's almost leveled from factory with a very slight rake. As you can see with the evolution of mine, there are several different adjustments, but not all of them will put you in the green for CCT. The highest adjustment on the 5100 puts you at level, removing factory rake, but no idea if it will work. The 5100's alow you to reach the green on CCT and maintain the factory look, so this is why Bilstein recommends them as a 'factory' replacement.

[6112 adjustments]
View attachment 74




3) You sound just like me, only I pull a camper. Since you load your bed, I'd get the 5160 for the rear, it does make a bit of difference.



Here are some updated pics of what it looks like now:

View attachment 75View attachment 76View attachment 77


Good luck, and again, I hope we can get someone here to break down the science for us, because I'm still curious myself.

Thanks so much for the lengthy and quick response! Love the look of your truck in white. That's what I currently have and love it, but something about the look of this truck in red just stands out to me.

I agree with your comments on why Bilstein recommends what they do. For my application I cant see any reason to go above the 5100/5160 combo.

I'm waiting to hear back from my buddy at Bilstein and if he provides any explanation I will post it here.

 

[AT4_Guest20]

Welcome to the community! Cardinal red was my initial want, but I'm glad I didn't do it. The 6.2 with intake and exhaust can get you in some trouble with the law, so fun to drive when the kids aren't in the back. The experience was a nightmare, glad it's over, hope it can help you and others.


1) I watched the guys at the second shop get in the green with caster, camber, and toe (CCT), so the geometry seems to match, but I assume Bilstein recommends otherwise because of the load up top. If the 1st shop hadn't been so bad, I might have a better understanding. The safe bet is to stick with the 5100, so you don't end up like me. I bought both sets for the 1st shop, and they said both pairs fit similarly, in that they 'didn't fit'. The 2nd shop that specializes in lifted trucks told me that both fit with no issues, and let me watch the whole thing to verify, each time. Unless you're riding the Baja, it shouldn't matter.... and even then, you should have a Colorado ZR2 or Bison.

2) I'm not an engineer, so hopefully someone far more qualified than me will answer this... but... my understanding is that you can add to factory rake as long as CCT stays green. In the case of the AT4, it's almost leveled from factory with a very slight rake. As you can see with the evolution of mine, there are several different adjustments, but not all of them will put you in the green for CCT. The highest adjustment on the 5100 puts you at level, removing factory rake, but no idea if it will work. The 5100's alow you to reach the green on CCT and maintain the factory look, the 6112's do not, so this probably is why Bilstein recommends them as a 'factory' replacement.

[6112 adjustments]
View attachment 74




3) You sound just like me, only I pull a camper. Since you load your bed, I'd get the 5160 for the rear, it does make a bit of difference.



Here are some updated pics of what it looks like now:




Good luck, and again, I hope we can get someone here to break down the science for us, because I'm still curious myself.

Hmmm, my 6112s only had 3 notches. Factory height, 0.6", and 1.2", I went with the middle since I wasn't really interested in making it level. I installed them myself and had an alignment done. Everything has been fine so far.

 

[Jimmy23]

I put 6112s up front and the 5100s in the rear about a month ago now. I put the 6112s at the #3 spot, it gave me 1.2” of lift. I did add new UCAs as well. It rides so much better now and there is still a little bit rake but it’s better than stock. Looks like you got it all figured out now, I should have read more into the thread before I responded.

 

[TheShark]

I've only ever had the DSSV Multimatics, but I've been in plenty of trucks with Fox and King. For me, these Bilsteins are great, but I won't be off-roading. These are still far more capable than the Ranchos, there is no question, I just want to be able to feel the road. I was marveling at it today as I drove over some roads I hadn't been on in a while, the rocking and boat like ride are gone totally.

Unless you're racing in the Baja, you should be fine with these.

That's awesome to hear. Especially how you described the "boat like" ride. I was trying to describe that "quality" (lol) to someone and didn't have a good analogy. I can't wait for that to be gone! I am curious though as to why you put the 5100's up front after you already had the 6112's there. Also, of you wouldn't mind explaning, what are the differences between them? Ibwas thinking of putting a Rough Country leveling kit in the front to eliminate the rake, but it kinda looks like you have achieved that with just the shocks, which, if the case, would be great since it's one less thing to spend on!