Oily sludge on fuel filter

the dealership wouldn't change your fuel filter because the "manufacturer" recommended interval wasn't there at the time of purchase which is something like 2 years or 20,000 miles. It is also unknown who owned your truck before you and how it was treated. You'd be surprised at the amount of damage one knuckle head can do in 10,000 miles of poor maintenance.

The dealer is very unlikely to cover anything in your fuel system all they have to say "you used dirty fuel" and you're on your own.

Diesel fuel is generally VERY dirty. And when you wait 10k+ miles regardless of manufacturer recommended times this is the end result.

If your truck has no other problems, here's what I would do in your place. #1 pull your oil dipstick out and make sure it looks like and smells like oil. #2 look at your coolant tank and make sure it looks like and smells like coolant. Next check for blow by. If all that passes then do the following:

Drain all the diesel fuel you have from your tank. Get a borescope or something similar, insert the borescope into your tank from the diesel fill up and look for sludge. If there is sludge stop what you're doing and go to a diesel shop. Cheaper to have your entire fuel system flush / cleaned professionally than to risk a $15k job.

If the tank looks clear I would just replace the filter and refill all new diesel fuel. Throw away what you have.

You can also send off a sample of your fuel to one of the services to analyze it for you to see if it's good or if there are issues

I highly advise filling up at reputable gas stations (Costco, Mobil, Chevron etc), always using a diesel fuel additive and consider investing in better filtration like the VSE fuel system saver.

Never follow GMs recommended intervals.
 

the dealership wouldn't change your fuel filter because the "manufacturer" recommended interval wasn't there at the time of purchase which is something like 2 years or 20,000 miles. It is also unknown who owned your truck before you and how it was treated. You'd be surprised at the amount of damage one knuckle head can do in 10,000 miles of poor maintenance.

The dealer is very unlikely to cover anything in your fuel system all they have to say "you used dirty fuel" and you're on your own.

Diesel fuel is generally VERY dirty. And when you wait 10k+ miles regardless of manufacturer recommended times this is the end result.

If your truck has no other problems, here's what I would do in your place. #1 pull your oil dipstick out and make sure it looks like and smells like oil. #2 look at your coolant tank and make sure it looks like and smells like coolant. Next check for blow by. If all that passes then do the following:

Drain all the diesel fuel you have from your tank. Get a borescope or something similar, insert the borescope into your tank from the diesel fill up and look for sludge. If there is sludge stop what you're doing and go to a diesel shop. Cheaper to have your entire fuel system flush / cleaned professionally than to risk a $15k job.

If the tank looks clear I would just replace the filter and refill all new diesel fuel. Throw away what you have.

You can also send off a sample of your fuel to one of the services to analyze it for you to see if it's good or if there are issues

I highly advise filling up at reputable gas stations (Costco, Mobil, Chevron etc), always using a diesel fuel additive and consider investing in better filtration like the VSE fuel system saver.

Never follow GMs recommended intervals.
I always get my fuel from circle k cause it’s the best place to get fuel around where I live
 

Well thank you for your reply sir on guy that replied above to my problem said to run some of this stuff but I will ask a diesel shop that know what they talking about instead of my dealerView attachment 22693View attachment 22694View attachment 22694
What have you found out?

I bought a bottle to treat my systems. I have 11 diesel burners with 3500 gallons of red diesel storage tanks and 1100 gallons of clear diesel in storage tanks. Thought I better become pro-active before I get burnt.

I don't know what to think of this hidden label behind the back label. I'm wondering if Killem is safe to use on dpf systems and just doesn't "comply" with the 3 letter agency that starts with e, which is fine by me.

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Reading this label I have no idea how this is still being produced in the USA! 😁

I'm running with the idea that if was bad for a dpf, the label would say "not to be used in dpf systems"!
 

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