I need help

BFG makes the KO2 in 305/70R18 and 305/65R18. I'd run the LT35x12.5Rx18.

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Just a heads up that these calculators are using NOMINAL sizes and simply converting from metric to US standards.

Width = 315 / 25.4 = 12.402”
Sidewall = 315 * 0.70 / 25.4 = 8.681”
Total Height = 17” + 8.681” * 2 = 34.362”

ACTUAL tire measurements typically vary slightly. Also width is based on MEASURING rim width determined by the manufacturer. If the ACTUAL rim width is different you to add/deduct approx 0.20” in width for the very 0.50” in rim variances.

To gain actual tire measurements, it’s best to visit the manufacturer’s site.

Also it’s wise to pay attention to tire weights. Toyo & Nitto’s are notorious for being pigs. The Goodyear Territory MT’s are very light for their size. Ideally you don’t want to add more weight than stock as it’s on the axle and will have a greater effect on rotational mass.

Changing diameter and weight can have adverse effects. We usually notice this on how “peppy” a vehicle feels when accelerating. Larger & heavier tires will make you slower & reduce towing capacity, depending how drastic you sway from stock configuration.

To get really nerdy you can use this site to see the effects tire changes will have on gearing. This doesn’t factor in weight, just sizes.

 

What exactly is in your “35 upgrade kit”?

About a year ago I lifted my Bronco roughly 2.5” using coilovers and new UCA’s. Then put Icon Rebound Pros with innerlock technology & 37x12.5x17 Yoko Geolandar MT G003’s.

The 2-2.5” lift was in a grey area if the UCA’s were needed. I optioned for them to be on the safe side and ensure geometry was right for proper alignment.

Another part of this for me was I went from 33’s to 37’s and also about an inch wider. Since I was upgrading my wheels too, wheel offset became another consideration. Again, the further you deviate from stock the more strain you put on things. At the same time, some variance is needed for fitment.

Lots of guys just jack their vehicle up in the air. I’m not of that mindset. That just raises your center of gravity which can be detrimental on steep climbs. Bigger tires gain you ground clearance which gets you over obstacles. Suspension lifts & trimming is needed to clear the larger tires.

A final thought is I saw you had a range of tires from AT to RT to MT. Each has some perks and disadvantages. I was running the KO2’s in 33’s and not impressed with wet traction. Love my Yokohama’s but MT’s generally wear faster, louder, heavier and less fuel efficient (if that’s important to you). Some of the Broncos come with the Territory MT’s (not a true MT by the way, more of an AT) and while light they are notorious for flinging rocks. Guys are constantly complaining about it.

There are many nuances to consider. If you aren’t sure about them you should study up before going down a path.
 

Just a heads up that these calculators are using NOMINAL sizes and simply converting from metric to US standards.

Width = 315 / 25.4 = 12.402”
Sidewall = 315 * 0.70 / 25.4 = 8.681”
Total Height = 17” + 8.681” * 2 = 34.362”

ACTUAL tire measurements typically vary slightly. Also width is based on MEASURING rim width determined by the manufacturer. If the ACTUAL rim width is different you to add/deduct approx 0.20” in width for the very 0.50” in rim variances.

To gain actual tire measurements, it’s best to visit the manufacturer’s site.

Also it’s wise to pay attention to tire weights. Toyo & Nitto’s are notorious for being pigs. The Goodyear Territory MT’s are very light for their size. Ideally you don’t want to add more weight than stock as it’s on the axle and will have a greater effect on rotational mass.

Changing diameter and weight can have adverse effects. We usually notice this on how “peppy” a vehicle feels when accelerating. Larger & heavier tires will make you slower & reduce towing capacity, depending how drastic you sway from stock configuration.

To get really nerdy you can use this site to see the effects tire changes will have on gearing. This doesn’t factor in weight, just sizes.


AEV kit
 


AEV kit

Sounds like they giving you a 1” lift using 1/2” spacers on the suspension and another 1/2” in body lift with some glorified trimmed wheel liners.

Have you seen one of these in person?

With body lifts you can end up with gaps at the bumpers, etc that you may not like. The good thing is it’s just 1/2”.

Also I would be curious how the spacers alter the ride quality of the DSSV suspension. And the spacer is just making clearance for the 35’s which means you are likely losing some articulation on the trails under full flex. The Badlands Broncos did a similar thing. If you have a Sasquatch package you get 35’s but basically the same suspension as the non-Sasquatch Badlands and 33’s. The Sasquatch package uses a spacer to clear the 35’s but it actually articulates less than the 33’s without the spacer.

You do gain 1” ground clearance from 33’s to 35’s but if you are in full flex it may not be as good as 33’s if articulation is reduced to clear 35’s.

Also, I saw they recommend +12 offset wheels for use with the kit and sell some of their own wheels as well. The stock wheels are +26 offset so you will have to push the stock wheels out 14mm or 0.55” using a spacer if you don’t get new wheels. Probably 0.50” (or 12.7mm) in reality.

You may be able to skip new wheels (or spacers) if you run a skinny 35x11.5, or 285/75/18. I’ve not done enough research yet to determine if skinny 35’s will fit without the AEV clearance kit at all (would be more ideal IMO).

Also as I noted upstream actual dimensions of the tires you choose may affect clearance. This is from a Bronco site but has data on a good portion of 35, 37 & 40 tires. It doesn’t show widths on them which will be important as well. I would ask AEV what tires they recommend with their kit since there is variation. Many metric 35’s are closer to 34.50” and some don’t actually hit 12.50” wide either.

 

Sounds like they giving you a 1” lift using 1/2” spacers on the suspension and another 1/2” in body lift with some glorified trimmed wheel liners.

Have you seen one of these in person?

With body lifts you can end up with gaps at the bumpers, etc that you may not like. The good thing is it’s just 1/2”.

Also I would be curious how the spacers alter the ride quality of the DSSV suspension. And the spacer is just making clearance for the 35’s which means you are likely losing some articulation on the trails under full flex. The Badlands Broncos did a similar thing. If you have a Sasquatch package you get 35’s but basically the same suspension as the non-Sasquatch Badlands and 33’s. The Sasquatch package uses a spacer to clear the 35’s but it actually articulates less than the 33’s without the spacer.

You do gain 1” ground clearance from 33’s to 35’s but if you are in full flex it may not be as good as 33’s if articulation is reduced to clear 35’s.

Also, I saw they recommend +12 offset wheels for use with the kit and sell some of their own wheels as well. The stock wheels are +26 offset so you will have to push the stock wheels out 14mm or 0.55” using a spacer if you don’t get new wheels. Probably 0.50” (or 12.7mm) in reality.

You may be able to skip new wheels (or spacers) if you run a skinny 35x11.5, or 285/75/18. I’ve not done enough research yet to determine if skinny 35’s will fit without the AEV clearance kit at all (would be more ideal IMO).

Also as I noted upstream actual dimensions of the tires you choose may affect clearance. This is from a Bronco site but has data on a good portion of 35, 37 & 40 tires. It doesn’t show widths on them which will be important as well. I would ask AEV what tires they recommend with their kit since there is variation. Many metric 35’s are closer to 34.50” and some don’t actually hit 12.50” wide either.

So sounds not worth it, as it’s expensive with buy install and potential warranty headaches?!!
 

So sounds not worth it, as it’s expensive with buy install and potential warranty headaches?!!
I assumed it gave me a 2” overall ground clearance diff. Sounds not up to AEV normal standards great products…
 

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