Yukon with Air Ride lift kit question

[Texaspicker]

Does anyone have experience with these or similar?

2021-2025 GMC Yukon W/Active Ride (AIR RIDE) 0-2.5" Lift Kit

Shop for a 2021-2025 GMC Yukon W/Active Ride (AIR RIDE) 0-2.5" Lift Kit from suspensionsuperstore.com. With The Largest Inventory w/ Free Same Day Shipping & Best Pricing!

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[1ua99]

Yes. Those look identical to what I ordered from Edgy Mods. Easiest lift ever. Started of by sticking a post it note on the fender above each wheel. Make a mark at at a even number so math doesn't get complicated. Removed factory links and adjusted new ones to the same length as factory. Shortened the front link 20 turns. Lifted front 1.5". Lengthened rear 24 turns. Lifted rear 2". In and out of the carport a few times. Remeasure and make any adjustments to get everything where you want it. You can still raise and lower it with the button. Put some tires on it, realignment, tint, PPF, Ceramic. Good to go!

 

[gemarsh]

Yes. Those look identical to what I ordered from Edgy Mods. Easiest lift ever. Started of by sticking a post it note on the fender above each wheel. Make a mark at at a even number so math doesn't get complicated. Removed factory links and adjusted new ones to the same length as factory. Shortened the front link 20 turns. Lifted front 1.5". Lengthened rear 24 turns. Lifted rear 2". In and out of the carport a few times. Remeasure and make any adjustments to get everything where you want it. You can still raise and lower it with the button. Put some tires on it, realignment, tint, PPF, Ceramic. Good to go!

Welcome.

 

[Texaspicker]

Yes. Those look identical to what I ordered from Edgy Mods. Easiest lift ever. Started of by sticking a post it note on the fender above each wheel. Make a mark at at an even number so math doesn't get complicated. Removed factory links and adjusted new ones to the same length as factory. Shortened the front link 20 turns. Lifted front 1.5". Lengthened rear 24 turns. Lifted rear 2". In and out of the carport a few times. Remeasure and make any adjustments to get everything where you want it. You can still raise and lower it with the button. Put some tires on it, realignment, tint, PPF, Ceramic. Good to go!

Thanks! Does it ride any stiffer? Do you have any concerns on it putting more stress on the suspension?

 

[1ua99]

Thanks! Does it ride any stiffer? Do you have any concerns on it putting more stress on the suspension?

I can’t tell any difference. I figure if it is designed to run +2” in 4 Lo it should be good to go. I don’t know how much it affects travel but I haven’t felt any topping out. Upper and lower control arm angles look good.

 

[ThatGuy]

Yes. Those look identical to what I ordered from Edgy Mods. Easiest lift ever. Started of by sticking a post it note on the fender above each wheel. Make a mark at at a even number so math doesn't get complicated. Removed factory links and adjusted new ones to the same length as factory. Shortened the front link 20 turns. Lifted front 1.5". Lengthened rear 24 turns. Lifted rear 2". In and out of the carport a few times. Remeasure and make any adjustments to get everything where you want it. You can still raise and lower it with the button. Put some tires on it, realignment, tint, PPF, Ceramic. Good to go!

I purchased that same kit back in January. They sat on my desk for a few months, and then one very hot evening I recently tried to install them.
Before I started, I also measured around all four fenders as you did and I was surprised at how out of whack all of the stock measurements are. I plan to clean that up with the adjustable links.
I could not get a good look at the "pin" on the stock links to see how to get them off of the sensor side. Does the pin just push through with force or does it back out with a small screwdriver? My pins kind of look threaded and I didn't want to destroy the stock links by bullying them off. I sent an email to the seller and never got a response. Any guidance that you could provide will be greatly appreciated!

 

[ThatGuy]

Thanks! Does it ride any stiffer? Do you have any concerns on it putting more stress on the suspension?

The Edgy Mods instruction do have a note at the bottom that says: "After you lift the vehicle it is not recommended to go to the highest setting"
That would probably put a lot of stress on the suspension.

 

[1ua99]

I purchased that same kit back in January. They sat on my desk for a few months, and then one very hot evening I recently tried to install them.
Before I started, I also measured around all four fenders as you did and I was surprised at how out of whack all of the stock measurements are. I plan to clean that up with the adjustable links.
I could not get a good look at the "pin" on the stock links to see how to get them off of the sensor side. Does the pin just push through with force or does it back out with a small screwdriver? My pins kind of look threaded and I didn't want to destroy the stock links by bullying them off. I sent an email to the seller and never got a response. Any guidance that you could provide will be greatly appreciated!

I used needle nose pliers to pull the pin out and the open end of 3/8 wrench to pop the factory links off.
This video is for a Dodge but looks the same. I just tried not to put much lateral pressure on the sensor.

 

[ThatGuy]

I used needle nose pliers to pull the pin out and the open end of 3/8 wrench to pop the factory links off.
This video is for a Dodge but looks the same. I just tried not to put much lateral pressure on the sensor.

View attachment 28243

Thank you for this, I will give it a shot. I was trying to push the pin through, but I like your recommendation to pull from the other side.
Much gratitude!

 

[ThatGuy]

I got this done on Saturday, and thanks to 1ua99, it took no time at all. (about 30 minutes) The pins on the stock sensor links pull through easily from the back side with needle nose pliers.
The directions say "3 turns of the threads equals 1/4" in height change". I was looking for 2 inches all around, so I spun the links to make them equal to the stock links, and then spun them 24 turns to get 2" of lift. The rear links at 24 turns delivered exactly 2" increase on both sides. The front links at 24 turns delivered exactly 3" lift on both sides. I think that will probably put more stress than I want on the front suspension, so I plan to back the front links out about 8 turns, and that should get me the 2".

​

 

[Danimalx87]

I've never attempted something like this, how would you rate the difficulty level? I'm good with some wrenching, but don't have the experience in suspension systems and the stored potential energy scares me

 

[ThatGuy]

I've never attempted something like this, how would you rate the difficulty level? I'm good with some wrenching, but don't have the experience in suspension systems and the stored potential energy scares me

Installation took me less than 30 mins. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being replacing the engine in your driveway, I would classify this as a 1. I have done many mods on other trucks and SUVs that we have owned in the last 25 years, and this was by far the easiest.

RE: potential energy - The weight of the vehicle does not rest on the links. By altering the length of the links, you are merely fooling the sensors that control the ride height. The stock links are made out of plastic, so you will be installing more robust hardware than those that came with the vehicle.
I installed a real lift kit on a 16 year old Avalanche last fall and that took us four hours. Three hours to figure out how to do the drivers side front and rear, and an hour to follow up for the passenger side. That kit actually carries the weight of the truck, and as you mentioned, I was reluctant to alter some components of the suspension, and I was somewhat cautious the first 100 miles. 4,000 miles later it is just fine.

As discussed in this thread, be sure that you pull the pin out of the stock link with needle nose pliers. The instructions suggest that you push it out with a screwdriver, and that is just not happening.

I say go for it.

 

[Danimalx87]

Installation took me less than 30 mins. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being replacing the engine in your driveway, I would classify this as a 1. I have done many mods on other trucks and SUVs that we have owned in the last 25 years, and this was by far the easiest.

RE: potential energy - The weight of the vehicle does not rest on the links. By altering the length of the links, you are merely fooling the sensors that control the ride height. The stock links are made out of plastic, so you will be installing more robust hardware than those that came with the vehicle.
I installed a real lift kit on a 16 year old Avalanche last fall and that took us four hours. Three hours to figure out how to do the drivers side front and rear, and an hour to follow up for the passenger side. That kit actually carries the weight of the truck, and as you mentioned, I was reluctant to alter some components of the suspension, and I was somewhat cautious the first 100 miles. 4,000 miles later it is just fine.

As discussed in this thread, be sure that you pull the pin out of the stock link with needle nose pliers. The instructions suggest that you push it out with a screwdriver, and that is just not happening.

I say go for it.

That was a great response, very informative, I really appreciate it, thank you. I need to make sure I still fit in my garage when riding at the elevated height, then I might just try to convince the wife that this is a necessary upgrade for the family

 

[ThatGuy]

That was a great response, very informative, I really appreciate it, thank you. I need to make sure I still fit in my garage when riding at the elevated height, then I might just try to convince the wife that this is a necessary upgrade for the family

I gathered some info for you as I just checked on something that I needed to look at anyway...
I have a 2024 Yukon XL AT4 with stock wheels and tires, I don't know which vehicle you have, or if you have different wheels/tires. I just laid a 2'x4' across the highest point of the roof rails measured straight down. After the 2" link lift all around, that measurement is 6'-6 1/4". My garage door opening is 7' which is a pretty standard residential opening height. That leaves me 5 3/4" clear into the garage, and it has not been a problem.

Measure your own garage opening for sure. I have seen some opening trim reduce that 7' clear down to 6'-11" or more. You could have some fancy trim that reduces that dimension even further, but I still think you should be fine.

(The other thing I needed to look at anyway...
I have a new Thule Wingbar Evo roof rack in the box in the garage, that will add another 4". In theory, that should leave me 1 3/4" clear with the rack, but my driveway slopes toward the garage, and there is a depressed drainage swale about 3' out from the garage door. Those various angles could complicate the clearance as the truck rolls in, so I am going to have to study that before I bolt everything down tight.)

 

[Danimalx87]

Ok, I'm about to put the order in.

Has anyone noticed any issues with the auto exit height or the lower Aero height at cruising speeds? I'm planning on a moderate 1.5" lift so I would assume since all these rods do is change the way the computer senses height, each of the pre-programmed heights would be increased by 1.5"?

Then, I could still use the OEM controls to raise the truck higher for speeds under 50 MPH, but I would NOT want to push it to the max height through the controls while in 4WD Low?