Leo581
Well-known member
Anyone know what's involved in replacing the lower "valance" on the front bumpers? I assume the entire front clip needs to come off.
replacing lower front bumper
- Thread starter Leo581
- Start date
Leo581
Well-known member
Update:
I decided to just give it a go and I found it's pretty easy. It's held on by a series of 14 7mm screws with the washers attached. All are fairly easy to reach and I could get them with a small swivel head ratchet wrench and extended socket wrench. When you're under the truck it's going to look like there are dozens of hard to reach screws to take out, that's not the case. Once you have all 14 screws out, just reach your fingers through the grill looking plastic on the backside and push the lower valance and it'll pop out. Set the new valance back in place, reattach all 14 screws and you're done. I've attached pictures to try and explain. The only reason I replaced it was because the dealer pop riveted the front license plate bracket to the lower valance and my state doesn't require a front plate.
I bought the part on 404parts.com and had it in about 5 days. Factory part for $200, I didn't think that was terrible.
404parts.com
On a side note I have a brand new lower valance with the front license plate bracket installed for sale!
I decided to just give it a go and I found it's pretty easy. It's held on by a series of 14 7mm screws with the washers attached. All are fairly easy to reach and I could get them with a small swivel head ratchet wrench and extended socket wrench. When you're under the truck it's going to look like there are dozens of hard to reach screws to take out, that's not the case. Once you have all 14 screws out, just reach your fingers through the grill looking plastic on the backside and push the lower valance and it'll pop out. Set the new valance back in place, reattach all 14 screws and you're done. I've attached pictures to try and explain. The only reason I replaced it was because the dealer pop riveted the front license plate bracket to the lower valance and my state doesn't require a front plate.
I bought the part on 404parts.com and had it in about 5 days. Factory part for $200, I didn't think that was terrible.
2022-2026 Sierra Gloss Black Valance Skid Plate Upgrade
Upgrade your 2022-2025 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4, Denali, SLT with this Genuine GM Gloss Black Lower Valance Skid Plate. Factory pre-painted, oversized part. VIN required. Non-refundable. Shop now!
404parts.com
On a side note I have a brand new lower valance with the front license plate bracket installed for sale!
Attachments
Last edited:
Update:
I decided to just give it a go and I found it's pretty easy. It's held on by a series of 14 7mm screws with the washers attached. All are fairly easy to reach and I could get them with a small ratchet wrench and extended socket wrench. When you're under the truck it's going to look like there are dozens of hard to reach screws to take out, that's not the case. Once you have all 14 screws out, just reach your fingers through the grill looking plastic on the backside and push the lower valance and it'll pop out. Set the new valance back in place, reattach all 14 screws and you're done. I've attached pictures to try and explain. The only reason I replaced it was because the dealer pop riveted the front license plate bracket to the lower valance and my state doesn't require a front plate.
I bought the part on 404parts.com and had it in about 5 days. Factory part for $200, I didn't think that was terrible.
2022-2026 Sierra Gloss Black Valance Skid Plate Upgrade
Upgrade your 2022-2025 GMC Sierra 1500 AT4, Denali, SLT with this Genuine GM Gloss Black Lower Valance Skid Plate. Factory pre-painted, oversized part. VIN required. Non-refundable. Shop now!
On a side note I have a brand new lower valance with the front license plate bracket installed for sale!
Rarely do I get so fortunate to happen upon a forum post that exactly addresses what I am looking for.
I own a 2023 Sierra 1500 AT4 diesel.
I needed to know how to remove the lower valance so I may install a Strands Siberia double row 22 inch light bar.
I'm hopeful your post and experience will help me out.
I haven't spent a great deal of time looking under the truck to see what I'm facing but a quick look from underneath it seemed like a good bit of it was boxed off like the area was designed to be a ducting for incoming cooling air.
I'd rather not remove the bumper and then the grille just to find out I didn't need to.
If I have some success with getting my valance out I think the valance you bought from 404parts is the way I'll go. The open style meant for the diesel will be perfect for the light bar install. For some reason my 2023 valance is not open... it has grids I'd have to cut out for the light bar.
I have went to great lengths to blackout this truck and in some instances had to use the GM factory gloss black. It has been used on literally thousands of GM trucks and cars. The new valance should match what I have already done to my truck.
Thanks for the post and if you think of any other tips please pass them along.
Leo581
Well-known member
I'm not really sure if the diesel version is different underneath or not. Hopefully my post helps. Good luck and keep us updated!
Koolbreezeya
Active member
I just changed out my Denali grille to a blacked-out grille today. The lower valance or whatever they call it is as expensive as the main grill. Since its low and no one really sees it, I wanted to just paint it. I've been searching You Tube for a video on removal. It just so happens that I wanted to paint it tomorrow. This was perfect timing.
I'm going to add one important note. I pulled the lower valance today. I only found 13 bolts and it wouldn't come loose on the passenger side. I couldn't see it, but I finally felt the 14th 7mm screw. It's just to the left of the fog light. It's in between a "V" where two pieces of metal frame meet. I had to pull the fog light to get easier access. I think when Leo581 posted on how to remove it, he had pulled the fog lights to install the new Diode Dynamic lights. The other 13 screws are very visible, but that 14th one is a pain.
I painted the lower valance today. A black lower valance was as expensive as the much larger and more complex upper grille. Since its low and really not that prominent, I decided to just rattle can it. Got the black on today and will clear it tomorrow.
I painted the lower valance today. A black lower valance was as expensive as the much larger and more complex upper grille. Since its low and really not that prominent, I decided to just rattle can it. Got the black on today and will clear it tomorrow.
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pigpen23
Active member
I appreciate your post. I clipped a fawn earlier this year and haven't replaced this part yet. Your guide will definitely help when I get around to fixing it. Unfortunately, I need the part you replaced as well as the plastic behind it so I have a little more work cut out for me.
Leo581
Well-known member
Glad you got it replaced. I didn't actually remove the fog lights or anything else. I did have to specifically buy a small 7mm flexible head ratchet to make the job easier. Guess I should have mentioned that in the original post.
Leo581
Well-known member
Good luck with the repair. I'm not sure what's involved past removing that outer valance.
I sent you a PM by the way.
Bad news today. I had the lower valance perfectly painted in gloss black. I let it sit for 24 hours and then went to apply the same brand (Rustoleum) in clear. It wrinkled in about ten minutes. I knew in the back of my mind; I should have just left the black alone and not try to clear it. I spent a few hours wet sanding, but it didn't come out as nice as when I first painted it. It probably needs to sit for about a week before I can sand it out. I decided I didn't want to deal with it.
Part of getting old.....you have some expendable income. I always allot about $3K on accessories when I buy a new truck. So.....I found the valance in black on Ebay at a reasonable price. I ordered it. I knew I would be aggravated whenever I waxed the truck and saw crappy paint work.
Part of getting old.....you have some expendable income. I always allot about $3K on accessories when I buy a new truck. So.....I found the valance in black on Ebay at a reasonable price. I ordered it. I knew I would be aggravated whenever I waxed the truck and saw crappy paint work.
Snip....
Part of getting old.....you have some expendable income. I always allot about $3K on accessories when I buy a new truck. So.....I found the valance in black on Ebay at a reasonable price. I ordered it. I knew I would be aggravated whenever I waxed the truck and saw crappy paint work.
You're not old enough if'n you can still get down that far to wash! Seems anymore whatever is waist high or higher is good enough. Like just the glass!
That’s bad luck.Bad news today. I had the lower valance perfectly painted in gloss black. I let it sit for 24 hours and then went to apply the same brand (Rustoleum) in clear. It wrinkled in about ten minutes. I knew in the back of my mind; I should have just left the black alone and not try to clear it. I spent a few hours wet sanding, but it didn't come out as nice as when I first painted it. It probably needs to sit for about a week before I can sand it out. I decided I didn't want to deal with it.
Part of getting old.....you have some expendable income. I always allot about $3K on accessories when I buy a new truck. So.....I found the valance in black on Ebay at a reasonable price. I ordered it. I knew I would be aggravated whenever I waxed the truck and saw crappy paint work.
Koolbreezeya
Active member
It's always something that seems to happen unfortunately..
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