Looking for info on adding a sub, not the OEM Kicker option. BassRestore vs LC2i vs other?

[john151ama]

Thanks for this information. Ive decided to go with the JL. Do I need the keylock ($130) or can I make due with the Kicker 46KISLOC2 ($20).

I want to ensure I have a good sounding system. Im not looking to rattle my doors off, nor do I listen to that music, but I like to feel the drums and bass lines when they do perform... like my other cars do lol.
It sounds like I need to go from the Yellow/Yellow black line going out of the bose amp to the front speakers (tap into them) and then run those two lines directly to the Keylock/KISLOC, and then wire that directly to the JL sub.

Need the 47keyLOC - this has the DSP so it corrects the frequencies and the roll off of the low frequency as you turn up the volume. The cheaper one just turns speaker wire to RCA’s and gives a remote turn on wire, does not do the correction you need.

If you just tap the yellow and yellow black coming out of the Bose amp that only gives right channel + and -. I would tap yellow and yellow black and land to Keyloc right input terminals and tap blue and brown blue and land to left input on keyloc. That will give the full signal of both left and right channels going in to the keyloc so it can do its magic and send the corrected signal out to you JL amp inputs. Using both the front channel inputs gave me the best results. I originally used the sub wires as my inputs and it worked but not as full as a signal as using the front door speaker signal. Using both left and right front door signals gave a better input the keyloc can optimize for your sub.

 

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[phobby]

Thanks for this information. Ive decided to go with the JL. Do I need the keylock ($130) or can I make due with the Kicker 46KISLOC2 ($20).

I want to ensure I have a good sounding system. Im not looking to rattle my doors off, nor do I listen to that music, but I like to feel the drums and bass lines when they do perform... like my other cars do lol.
It sounds like I need to go from the Yellow/Yellow black line going out of the bose amp to the front speakers (tap into them) and then run those two lines directly to the Keylock/KISLOC, and then wire that directly to the JL sub.

If you want the best bass response the Keyloc DSP is the best options by far for the money.

Speaker wire choice is up to you. Factory GM kicker sub say tap the YE and YE/Bk. Some say they like the Bose Sub wires and you can try both left and right. All the wires are in the right rear passenger threshold loom. Unless you buy the T harness, there’s no reason to remove the seat for the wires. You can just as easily run them under the carpet from the door to anywhere.

 

[phobby]

you can save some $ and get a powerwedge not powered and add the Kicker 47Key500.1 Amp with built in DSP. Almost as simple, you would just need to mount the amp to the side of the box.

 

[MilesToEmpty]

If you want the best bass response the Keyloc DSP is the best options by far for the money.

Speaker wire choice is up to you. Factory GM kicker sub say tap the YE and YE/Bk. Some say they like the Bose Sub wires and you can try both left and right. All the wires are in the right rear passenger threshold loom. Unless you buy the T harness, there’s no reason to remove the seat for the wires. You can just as easily run them under the carpet from the door to anywhere.

you can save some $ and get a powerwedge not powered and add the Kicker 47Key500.1 Amp with built in DSP. Almost as simple, you would just need to mount the amp to the side of the box.

Ended up going with the Keyloc DSP. That way i could open myself up to use my actual 8" under seat sub until I go with purchasing the jl.

Thanks!

 

[MilesToEmpty]

you can save some $ and get a powerwedge not powered and add the Kicker 47Key500.1 Amp with built in DSP. Almost as simple, you would just need to mount the amp to the side of the box.

Any chance theres a place to splice the red and yellow wires on the back near the bose amp as well, or should I tap into those elsewhere?

 

[phobby]

Any chance theres a place to splice the red and yellow wires on the back near the bose amp as well, or should I tap into those elsewhere?

idk what you want? Red and yellow wires?

 

[john151ama]

Any chance theres a place to splice the red and yellow wires on the back near the bose amp as well, or should I tap into those elsewhere?

I think you got your colors wrong. Should not be a red wire to tap. All the speaker wires run from the amp on the back wall through the door sill in the passenger side. You can access the same speaker wire either at the amp or under the door sill plate, your choice. Check the drawing attached, it showed the OEM speaker wire for every speaker in the truck. No reds

 

[phobby]

Ended up going with the Keyloc DSP. That way i could open myself up to use my actual 8" under seat sub until I go with purchasing the jl.

Thanks!

A little incite for you on speaker sources. Here is the Bose Amp output for most of the trucks.

As you can see, sub dies off real early, rear doors (idk what GM was thinking), and the fronts are pretty full range.

 

[MilesToEmpty]

idk what you want? Red and yellow wires?

I think you got your colors wrong. Should not be a red wire to tap. All the speaker wires run from the amp on the back wall through the door sill in the passenger side. You can access the same speaker wire either at the amp or under the door sill plate, your choice. Check the drawing attached, it showed the OEM speaker wire for every speaker in the truck. No reds

Sorry I read the wiring diagram of the KEYLOC wrong.
Red is remote in
Yellow (fused) 12v to battery
Black ground

Im assuming I dont need to use the remote in as the speaker wire should activate the unit correct?

Best location to tap a fuse for the 12v power?

 

[john151ama]

Sorry I read the wiring diagram of the KEYLOC wrong.
Red is remote in
Yellow (fused) 12v to battery
Black ground

Im assuming I dont need to use the remote in as the speaker wire should activate the unit correct?

Best location to tap a fuse for the 12v power?

I don’t know the specifics on that unit but check the instructions. Red is usually power, blue or yellow remote turn on. It probably has a switch you need to set to either use a remote turn on wire, DC from the speaker wire, or signal from speaker wire. Most have 3 options so you need to put the switch in the correct position for what you want. Typically you would have a power wire going to your battery and that goes to a fuse block. Then run power wire from the fuse block to the LOC and the amps so they are all on their own fuse