Andystoy AT4
Active member
I received/installed my Sumo Springs yesterday SSR-217-40. The actual install took 20 minutes or less but the prep took longer (1 hr.) I measured the spring combo with the truck in travel position before I started to take things apart and decided to use the blue spring with 1/4" plate only.
The instructions suggest you jack up the truck, take off the rear wheels and let the axle hang to give you maximum working area. I decided to jack up the rear of the truck with a floor jack and wooden blocks right at the hitch without removing the rear tires. I blocked the front wheels to prevent rolling. You can raise the rear of the truck enough to provide the clearance you need to remove and install the spring by working over the rear wheels and using floor jacks or blocking to prevent an accidental drop.
Removing the 10mm bolt on the stock rubbers was easy (you may need different length extensions for install). I used the black 1/4" plate on top with the blue spring. The kit includes new bolts(2 lengths and some blue thread lock). Installed and in travel position (about 200 lbs. of load, running boards, retrax cover and tools) you have just over an inch (2.5 cm) of free stock movement before the spring contacts the axle and starts to increase resistance to downward movement. The spring is not centered over the axle pad but appears to have plenty of contact area. The Sumo bolts are 17mm and a standard short socket wouldn't go inside the spring so I used a long slim socket and dropped a 10mm socket inside to space the bolt up enough so that the threads were exposed and I could start them into the frame by hand. Use a dab of thread lock. If you have a socket problem compare the length of the bolt removed (10mm head) to the new one and you may be able to reuse the 10 mm one.
If you used the additional black plastic spacer most of the free travel would be gone and you would have increased resistance to bottoming and a stiffer ride. This setup would probably work better for a pickup that is used for work or towing and squats too much with the load in the box. You can also add a homemade space between the black plate and the frame if you want something in between.
The first picture shows that the stock bumper is about 3 1/8" tall and the new one is about 5 3/8" tall so you lose about 2 1/4" of free travel. The second pic shows the rubber installed in travel position with about 1" of free travel.
I have had air lift bags on a pickup many years ago that worked well but required air pressure adjustments because I did not install the air compressor etc. I chose this system over air because no adjustments and hopefully a good solution for the odd time that I do carry a heavier load that will help reduce the squat of the stock suspension and reduce some of the sway or bouncing over rough roads.
The instructions suggest you jack up the truck, take off the rear wheels and let the axle hang to give you maximum working area. I decided to jack up the rear of the truck with a floor jack and wooden blocks right at the hitch without removing the rear tires. I blocked the front wheels to prevent rolling. You can raise the rear of the truck enough to provide the clearance you need to remove and install the spring by working over the rear wheels and using floor jacks or blocking to prevent an accidental drop.
Removing the 10mm bolt on the stock rubbers was easy (you may need different length extensions for install). I used the black 1/4" plate on top with the blue spring. The kit includes new bolts(2 lengths and some blue thread lock). Installed and in travel position (about 200 lbs. of load, running boards, retrax cover and tools) you have just over an inch (2.5 cm) of free stock movement before the spring contacts the axle and starts to increase resistance to downward movement. The spring is not centered over the axle pad but appears to have plenty of contact area. The Sumo bolts are 17mm and a standard short socket wouldn't go inside the spring so I used a long slim socket and dropped a 10mm socket inside to space the bolt up enough so that the threads were exposed and I could start them into the frame by hand. Use a dab of thread lock. If you have a socket problem compare the length of the bolt removed (10mm head) to the new one and you may be able to reuse the 10 mm one.
If you used the additional black plastic spacer most of the free travel would be gone and you would have increased resistance to bottoming and a stiffer ride. This setup would probably work better for a pickup that is used for work or towing and squats too much with the load in the box. You can also add a homemade space between the black plate and the frame if you want something in between.
The first picture shows that the stock bumper is about 3 1/8" tall and the new one is about 5 3/8" tall so you lose about 2 1/4" of free travel. The second pic shows the rubber installed in travel position with about 1" of free travel.
I have had air lift bags on a pickup many years ago that worked well but required air pressure adjustments because I did not install the air compressor etc. I chose this system over air because no adjustments and hopefully a good solution for the odd time that I do carry a heavier load that will help reduce the squat of the stock suspension and reduce some of the sway or bouncing over rough roads.
