Dash Corner Speaker upgrade

Thx1158 · Apr 4, 2026

I ordered a pair of Audiofrog GS 25’s to replace the stock dash corner Bose speakers in my AT4. I’m going to use Bass blockers and will at some point pop in a powered subwoofer. Has anyone swapped these and if so what was your experience?

Thanks for any feedback.

Chopper_Man · Apr 4, 2026

Just did mine yesterday! Another brand tho. Took about 20 minutes per side. Get the adapters so you don't have to cut the pigtails. Not much to work with in the dash. 7mm, 10mm and a trim tool is all you need.

Thx1158 · Apr 4, 2026

Chopper_Man said:
Just did mine yesterday! Another brand tho. Took about 20 minutes per side. Get the adapters so you don't have to cut the pigtails. Not much to work with in the dash. 7mm, 10mm and a trim tool is all you need.

Thanks for the scoop. May I ask what brand you went with and what it did for the stock system?

3WAVSND · Apr 4, 2026

Short nut driver or socket will be your friend it's tight. You will notice better clarity with the dash speaker upgrade for sure.

I went down the rabbit hole and replaced all the speakers as well as the factory Bose amp.

Thx1158 · Apr 4, 2026

3WAVSND said:
Short nut driver or socket will be your friend it's tight. You will notice better clarity with the dash speaker upgrade for sure.

I went down the rabbit hole and replaced all the speakers as well as the factory Bose amp.

I did that with my Land Cruiser. Hertz, Audison 12 Channel DSP amp, and kicker powered subwoofer. It absolutely rocked, but I don’t want to get into that with my truck. I’m doing the corners and probably a kicker powered subwoofer again.

TheShark · Apr 5, 2026

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161PNW275/AudioControl-PNW-275.html

After lots of research, I went with these because they are the correct ohms for the output of that channel in the stock Bose system. Mine is a '21. They sound so much better than the stock Bose "tweeters". The magnets are significantly larger too. The Bose systems are tricky because each set of channels has different ohms. Unlike a traditional system where any 4ohm correctly sized speaker will work in any location. These came with inline bass blockers too. Probably not necessary because of the Bose DSP, but I installed them anyway.

Thx1158 · Apr 5, 2026

TheShark said:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161PNW275/AudioControl-PNW-275.html

After lots of research, I went with these because they are the correct ohms for the output of that channel in the stock Bose system. Mine is a '21. They sound so much better than the stock Bose "tweeters". The magnets are significantly larger too. The Bose systems are tricky because each set of channels has different ohms. Unlike a traditional system where any 4ohm correctly sized speaker will work in any location. These came with inline bass blockers too. Probably not necessary because of the Bose DSP, but I installed them anyway. View attachment 36649 View attachment 36650

Thank you for the reply. I strongly considered those. The Toyo’s JBL “Premium” system works much the same way with the weird Ohm loads.

john151ama · Apr 5, 2026

TheShark said:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161PNW275/AudioControl-PNW-275.html

After lots of research, I went with these because they are the correct ohms for the output of that channel in the stock Bose system. Mine is a '21. They sound so much better than the stock Bose "tweeters". The magnets are significantly larger too. The Bose systems are tricky because each set of channels has different ohms. Unlike a traditional system where any 4ohm correctly sized speaker will work in any location. These came with inline bass blockers too. Probably not necessary because of the Bose DSP, but I installed them anyway. View attachment 36649 View attachment 36650

I installed the same a couple years ago and very happy with them. Also put one in the dash center. I replaced all other speakers and tweeters as well and put the doors and tweeters on an amp with DSP and went with Infinity for the tweeters, 6x9, and 6.25” due to the 3 ohm. Worked out well.

TheShark · Apr 5, 2026

john151ama said:
I installed the same a couple years ago and very happy with them. Also put one in the dash center. I replaced all other speakers and tweeters as well and put the doors and tweeters on an amp with DSP and went with Infinity for the tweeters, 6x9, and 6.25” due to the 3 ohm. Worked out well.

If running an external (full aftermarket) amp with it's own DSP, wouldn't you no longer need to worry about the specific ohms? Please correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that the majority of that type of system were all 4ohm for every channel except perhaps a dedicated subwoofer channel if you got a 5 channel amp. Also, I'm curious about that central dash speaker! What signal/channel(s?) feeds it?

john151ama · Apr 5, 2026

I have an 8 channel Infinity amp (same as the JBL that is available/same company) with built in DSP. It is 3 or 4 ohm stable but puts out more watts with 3 ohms, so that is why I did the others. I split the tweeters all on their own channels and door speakers on their own so I had to run all new speaker wire. But that let me adjust every speaker, cross over points, time delay etc. Factory has the a pillar and door speakers and the rear tweeter and door speaker sharing a channel. With the 3 ohm speakers I think the amp is giving 60watts each channel, 4 ohms I think was about 10 less. Factory best I could measure was max about 20 watts out of the Bose and and that was split between tweeter and woofer, so 60 watts RMS for every speaker is a huge difference. I am using all 8 channels on the amp/dsp. I have a separate kicker key amp with built in DSP and anti bass roll off that sends 500watt RMS to my kicker solo 10” under the back seat (dual 2 ohm coils for a 1 ohm load). I did not amp the 3 dash speakers as they produce 90% ish of the sound via factory tunning. I wanted a full 360 surround feel, so I replaced the 3 dash for better sound then tuned my DSP amp to blend all the others at the right level so now you don’t hear the music coming from the dash. In my AT4X I have a center 2.75” in the middle of the dash, same as the 2 corners.

TheShark · Apr 5, 2026

john151ama said:
I have an 8 channel Infinity amp (same as the JBL that is available/same company) with built in DSP. It is 3 or 4 ohm stable but puts out more watts with 3 ohms, so that is why I did the others. I split the tweeters all on their own channels and door speakers on their own so I had to run all new speaker wire. But that let me adjust every speaker, cross over points, time delay etc. Factory has the a pillar and door speakers and the rear tweeter and door speaker sharing a channel. With the 3 ohm speakers I think the amp is giving 60watts each channel, 4 ohms I think was about 10 less. Factory best I could measure was max about 20 watts out of the Bose and and that was split between tweeter and woofer, so 60 watts RMS for every speaker is a huge difference. I am using all 8 channels on the amp/dsp. I have a separate kicker key amp with built in DSP and anti bass roll off that sends 500watt RMS to my kicker solo 10” under the back seat (dual 2 ohm coils for a 1 ohm load). I did not amp the 3 dash speakers as they produce 90% ish of the sound via factory tunning. I wanted a full 360 surround feel, so I replaced the 3 dash for better sound then tuned my DSP amp to blend all the others at the right level so now you don’t hear the music coming from the dash. In my AT4X I have a center 2.75” in the middle of the dash, same as the 2 corners.

Awesome setup! I really wanted to go big like that that as I really enjoy everything automotive audio. From choosing then installing the build to listening and loving it. It all gives me enjoyment. But as is the case for many, money was an issue. So I replaced all the speakers, added soundskins to the doors with speaker rings, and added the oem Kicker 10. Coming from two 12s in my last Vehicle (GMC Envoy) I REALLY miss the bass at times, but this system does sound quite clean at all volumes so I spent all my audio money on other mods!

Suspension, Exhaust, Rack, Tonneau, wheels/tires w/full size spare for wheelin, etc. I just got a replacement engine from the recall, so once I get a couple thousand miles on it, I'm considering new 4:10 gears and electronic locking diffs. That shit is going to be pricey, so the audio will have to stay like this for a while! Lol. Thanks for sharing your build! I love hearing about this stuff.

VolklRunner · Apr 6, 2026

Thx1158 said:
I ordered a pair of Audiofrog GS 25’s to replace the stock dash corner Bose speakers in my AT4. I’m going to use Bass blockers and will at some point pop in a powered subwoofer. Has anyone swapped these and if so what was your experience?

Thanks for any feedback.

Let us know how the install goes and if you think the upgrade is worth it. I installed two 8" subs and amp under rear seat. I am happy with the results and think the rest of the system sounds good, but would swap tweeters if worth it. 2026 GMC 2500HD AT4

Thx1158 · Apr 6, 2026

VolklRunner said:
Let us know how the install goes and if you think the upgrade is worth it. I installed two 8" subs and amp under rear seat. I am happy with the results and think the rest of the system sounds good, but would swap tweeters if worth it. 2026 GMC 2500HD AT4

I will be happy to provide feedback. I'm getting them this week and will install them with the Bass blockers. My next step will be a powered subwoofer. I want it all hidden so I'm looking at slim line options and I'm open to recommendations. I'm planning on using a "no splice" harness to tap into the stock amp's signals and just running the power to the battery. I want simple on this one. I don't want to get too involved as my last audio upgrade was a Hertz speaker upgrade with a 12 channel Audison DSP amp coupled with a 400 watt Kicker sub on my Land Cruiser.

john151ama · Apr 6, 2026

Thx1158 said:
I will be happy to provide feedback. I'm getting them this week and will install them with the Bass blockers. My next step will be a powered subwoofer. I want it all hidden so I'm looking at slim line options and I'm open to recommendations. I'm planning on using a "no splice" harness to tap into the stock amp's signals and just running the power to the battery. I want simple on this one. I don't want to get too involved as my last audio upgrade was a Hertz speaker upgrade with a 12 channel Audison DSP amp coupled with a 400 watt Kicker sub on my Land Cruiser.

Really need to make sure whatever you get has an amp with DSP or anti roll off. The Bose system does massive bass roll off as you increase the volume. This includes the sub channel if you have a AT4X or trim line with the console mounted sub. Every channel gets massive bass roll off as you increase volume to protect the speakers. So no matter what you put in you will not get good performance without correcting that input problem. Just look for that when choosing a all in one combo or amp/sub package.

Thx1158 · Apr 6, 2026

john151ama said:
Really need to make sure whatever you get has an amp with DSP or anti roll off. The Bose system does massive bass roll off as you increase the volume. This includes the sub channel if you have a AT4X or trim line with the console mounted sub. Every channel gets massive bass roll off as you increase volume to protect the speakers. So no matter what you put in you will not get good performance without correcting that input problem. Just look for that when choosing an all in one combo or amp/sub package.

Thank you for the additional considerations. It seems that a harness works to take the signal to the sub before processing.