Pb82 Ronin
Active member
Well GMC crowd, I finally got a chance to take some measurements in the new rig. Let's just say, I was not surprised by any of the discoveries. I've been hating on Bose since I first saw and heard how terrible it is (and always has been). And after today, my feelings are more confirmed than ever. Let's just say, Bose leaves a TON to be desired for true audio aficionados. I compete in SQL competitions with my ZO6, so naturally, I can't just leave my $70K+ AT4 with the OEM crappy system...that would just be wrong. Follow along with the measurements and descriptions. I'm happy to answer any questions. Here's the rig we use (in my ZO6):
First example, here is the factory BOSE curve (in Red) in MY particular truck. Now what you're looking at is a "target" curve (in yellow) with the BOSE curve (in Red). MANY (if not ALL SQL competitors) use this particular curve as a tuning target for award winning sound...even in home theater setups. Car audio is no different. The idea is to get the output from your speakers (aka drivers) to reproduce sound in line with that curve. Or put another way, the closer your lines are to the target curve the better the sound.
Now right off the bat, you can see two HUGE lacking areas. Highlighted in red circles:
Why are these two areas important you ask? Because they leave out a large portion of information that you would otherwise hear. Humans can hear (typically) from 20 Hz, to 20 KHz. The end of that spectrum can really stimulate the senses, especially at lower frequencies. In most people, hearing beings to degrade above 16 KHz as we age, which is why you see the gradual roll-off on the high end. It's not "as important" per se...but you still want it to be there for those that CAN hear it.
That brought us to taking some measurements while moving around the "EQ" if you can even call it that. It's more like a broad Q, 3 channel EQ, that can only make huge gains or cuts. There is ZERO fine tuning available with Bose. ZIP, ZERO, NADA. Sorry to say, if you're not happy with your stereo now, it is not possible for it to get "better" without serious upgrades.
And now for some serious wonkiness. Why does Bose do this? It makes ZERO sense. See below.
And don't fret 2500 drivers...I have a little gem for you as well. We took measurements in my friends 2500HD as well. Same everything, all stock, only differences are his is a 2500 Denali HD, and mine is an AT4 1500.
His is in purple, mine in yellow. His trace is much smoother than mine, especially in the midrange. And to us as audio competitors, we both hear it. He's itching for subs the same as I am. I think my stuff will be here first though.
To put this into perspective, here's the curve for my ZO6 (SQL competitor). In this, even a rookie can see which curve they'd rather have. This is an older finished tune of mine, and the current one is light years better, but it should be noted that Bose just can't get it right, no matter how hard they try. NO smoothness, NO adjustability, NO hope of ever sounding beautiful.
This is the best we could do with the factory setup. In this picture, I dropped "treble" to - 8, dropped "mids" to - 4, and boosted bass to +8.
Notice that mids didn't even move. Typical. The red trace is where I have it set. It sounds okay...but still SO lacking. This is about as ideal as my truck can sound without modifications. Additionally, these are great baseline measurements in which to compare the next aftermarket stereo mods to the factory garbage.
First example, here is the factory BOSE curve (in Red) in MY particular truck. Now what you're looking at is a "target" curve (in yellow) with the BOSE curve (in Red). MANY (if not ALL SQL competitors) use this particular curve as a tuning target for award winning sound...even in home theater setups. Car audio is no different. The idea is to get the output from your speakers (aka drivers) to reproduce sound in line with that curve. Or put another way, the closer your lines are to the target curve the better the sound.
Now right off the bat, you can see two HUGE lacking areas. Highlighted in red circles:
Why are these two areas important you ask? Because they leave out a large portion of information that you would otherwise hear. Humans can hear (typically) from 20 Hz, to 20 KHz. The end of that spectrum can really stimulate the senses, especially at lower frequencies. In most people, hearing beings to degrade above 16 KHz as we age, which is why you see the gradual roll-off on the high end. It's not "as important" per se...but you still want it to be there for those that CAN hear it.
That brought us to taking some measurements while moving around the "EQ" if you can even call it that. It's more like a broad Q, 3 channel EQ, that can only make huge gains or cuts. There is ZERO fine tuning available with Bose. ZIP, ZERO, NADA. Sorry to say, if you're not happy with your stereo now, it is not possible for it to get "better" without serious upgrades.
And now for some serious wonkiness. Why does Bose do this? It makes ZERO sense. See below.
His is in purple, mine in yellow. His trace is much smoother than mine, especially in the midrange. And to us as audio competitors, we both hear it. He's itching for subs the same as I am. I think my stuff will be here first though.
To put this into perspective, here's the curve for my ZO6 (SQL competitor). In this, even a rookie can see which curve they'd rather have. This is an older finished tune of mine, and the current one is light years better, but it should be noted that Bose just can't get it right, no matter how hard they try. NO smoothness, NO adjustability, NO hope of ever sounding beautiful.
